idahohay

Is there a hinge pin kit for 1993 Subaru Legacy? Driver's door is obviously sagging and letting in a little air at the top. I don't see a hinge pin kit listed anywhere, but they are definitely wore allowing the door to sag. Any suggestions?

Idasho, do you want to sell the wagon?

Yo'j, I think you summed it up for me. I am enjoying checking out C's list and look for EA81 cars with low miles.

Changed front crankshaft seal on my daughters 84 GL wagon. I thought it would be difficult but it was easy and had it done in less than an hour.

I pressured washed all the old oil off the front and valve cover areas. I didn't get back on the transaxle very well but it is very covered. While up on jack stands I discovered the holes that let you at least tighten up the pan and all the bolts were loose but you are right, the pan gasket probably needs replaced. But after getting it running oil appeared on the flat area that you see when looking down toward the right of the crank pulley . (The oil filter is just to the right and lower.) I was assuming the oil was coming from the shaft seal and running down till it appeared. I'm thinking of doing the pan on a different day. The valve covers were supposedly done about a year ago but I didn't do them so I am watching them for leaks. Thanks again, GD hr (sometimes known as General Specialist!!(serioualy)

I got the Hitachi Distributor and coil installed and the car fired right up. I still have a few issues to deal with like the wires that went to the Nippondenso had a grommet that fit it and not the Hitachi. Also the nippondenso had a gasket that didn't really fit the Hitachi so I will silicone it and the grommet that I remodeled, maybe even silicone the cap on. It still leaks a bit of oil but thats a project for another day(or week) Many thanks GD hr

I got my replacement distributor but it didn't come wired so after remodeling the rubber grommet to fit the Hitachi and getting the wires through I managed to find some terminals. But, the terminal posts on the Hitachi pickup coil are not marked as positive or negative.(just some illegible splotches of paint) Does it matter which leads go to which post on the pickup coil in the distributor? Also the Nippondenso coil had a resistor(?) going from the negative terminal of the coil to ground. Does this apply to the Hitachi coil as well? hr

I just received a Hitachi distributor for an EA81 and the terminals are not clearly marked -just some dabs of paint. Can anyone help me with which side is + and - ?

Thanks for the replies. I guess it is EA81 simplicity or 90's Legacy or Impreza. I think I understand the concerns and of course the price vs. condition will come into play. So I guess my original thoughts were right but thanks to you guys I am more up to speed. hr

Since working on my daughters 84 GL wagon I have come across many older Subarus for sale in all different configurations. I'm thinking older generation wagon for running around, going fishing, hunting, and my wife likes berry picking,etc. which involves the miles of logging roads in north Idaho. Is there a year or range of years, engine type (EA81 or EA82) that is more trouble free, fuel injection vs. carb, turbo vs. non turbo, full time vs. selectable 4wd. , etc.? I would like to keep the initial investment to 1200.00 not including tires as I would plan to put the best all season radials on whatever I end up with. I'm thinking the most bang would be the best condition car with the least miles at the best price but thought I would check first with those who really know the cars. hr

I ordered a guaranteed rebuilt Hitachi dist., a new Hitachi coil, roter and cap. total with shipping was about 200.00. Would like to have scored something cheaper, but chose not to take the time. There was a Nippondenso dist. for sale on ebay for 15.00 but didn't feel like gambling. I will report back when the parts are in. Many thanks.

can the distributor be from a 4wd ? Sounds like if it is an EA81 in a 4wd it will be a Hitachi but will bolt up, just make sure I get the matching coil?

The car is 2wd and has Nippon Denso dist. Two numbers on it are 429879000 and 100291-0300. I will try roter and cap tomorrow, visually the existing one looks good and is about a year old but .. Thanks for your continued support. hr

GD, I guess I spoke too soon. The car was warming up, it must have known I was washing my hands, it died and no spark again. The coil still tests out ok and there is power to it when cranking but noting coming of the coil wire. I guess I'll start looking for another distributer ? Thanks again, I sure appreciate the quick response.

Not only did it have power but it started. This happened before. I was starting to think that unhooking the battery and re-hooking it up had something to do with it but it could be something as simple as a bad coil wire and just moving it around helped. I will probably replace spark plug and coil wires even though they are relatively new. Thanks so much GD I will report back. This is actually my daughters car and she just loves it. From what I have have learned the car is great except for the carter/weber feedback setup. hr

I tried 2 different meters, one was 1.6 and the other was 2.0 . On the secondary, one was 12.45 and one was 12.46K. If these values indicate a new coil. does it have to be exact replacement?

coil resistance is 12.45 ohms secondary(between coil wire and (-) primary, and between primary terminals it is 0.

Thanks for the replies. I will check primary and secondary coil resistance. Previously, there is no spark when the coil wire is held close to metal while cranking. I am located in Idaho panhandle. Many thanks again.

1984 GL wagon with a Carter/Weber carb. Car has died a couple of times now and both spark and power to the fuel pump dissapear. I have been able to get it going again but don't know why. It is presently dead with no power or spark. There is power to the coil when key is on but no spark, and no power to the fuel pump from the fuel pump control unit.(little blue box) I have tried an other blue box with no change. There is a solenoid(?) on the right side of carb that ticks when the key is on and I don't know if this is normal. Could this be computer related or some sort of sensor? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, any advice on what manual to buy ? The Haynes manual I purchased does not have a wiring diagram that is accurated. And to those responsible, thank you for this website.