rothell

If you get to yours before me let me know how it goes. Pics would be great. Thats what I'll be doing, just don't know when I'll get to it. -Rothell

Do you have a detailed write up on that? If not that might make for a good sticky. I'd rather not do the surgical method, I pulled out the dash cluster when I first got my car and it took me an hour. I still broke one of the tabs the one behind the defrost button, didn't know it was there:horse: -Rothell

Yes it is. It's Black and is mounted with 3 screws one of which is shared with blower motor. At least that is how it is in my EA82 wagon. It is the blower motor control module/resistor. [/img] [/img] Hope this helps -Rothell

You could also try CLR. You can get it at Lowes or walmart. Use the same method as above. I have the same problem as you but mine is from a rats nest that is in the heater box, duct work and who knows where else. I aslo only have speeds 3&4. It's the fan resistor I pulled it and checked. There cheep @ rockauto around $40. Hope you get heat soon. I'm in the same boat. -Rothell

Thank you very much. After all it is about the cup holder or the lack of the cup holder. -Rothell

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Thanks for all the info guys really just wanted to make sure I had the right part. Resetting the needle will have to wait until I take out the dash. My entire hvac system is full of rats nests. I'll probably be replacing the heater core as well. Now I'm thinking I want to do the led conversion on the dash lights. Why not:cool: Thanks again to everyone, usmb is the best. -Rothell

Here is my solution [/img] [/img] [/img] Took a little trimming and wouldn't work in a 5 speed. Remove 4 screws pull it out and back seats folds down just as they should. Nothing modded that it be put back to stock. I have to young boys they love it.

how much shipping to 29693?

So I purchased A 90 Loyale A few months ago and have been fixing what I can when I can. When I got the car the oil pressure gauge didn't' work, needle is below zero. When you turn on the ignition switch the guage goes up to 85 then goes to zero. Start the car and the gauge goes way below zero. So I ordered a new oil pressure switch with gauge from rock auto ( Beck/Arnley part # 2011341 ) great part is it was only $3.64 (same part at advance is $50+) So I noticed the oil pressure switch I'm purchasing looks different than the current one installed on my Loyale. I assumed that they were the same diameter and thread and would fit in the same location. Well the part came today. [/img] Now I see that this part goes in a different port, which has what appears to be the factory plug. So I took out the plug, installed the new switch and oil pressure now works kinda. Turn on the ignition switch gauge does nothing (maybe this is how it is supposed to be?) Start the car, gauge is well below zero. Raise the rpms or drive, the highest oil pressure I get is dead on zero. I haven't removed the old switch [/img] because I don't have a plug for that port. I assume that the old switch is oil pressure switch with light. At least thats what I have figured out by looking at parts online at multiple websites. Now Assuming I have the correct switch NOW:confused: How do I get the gauge to work properly? Does anyone know the ohm values for the sending unit? Can I raise the resistance with a resistor to make the gauge work within the proper values? How can I tell if the motor is not original? I know thats alots questions for such a simple thing but I really would like my oil pressure gauge to work especially since I have one. I hate dummy lights. Thanks for any and all help in this issue.

I always let it warm up in the morning until the idle drops. But there is always lag until full warm up. Even when it not cold outside. I'm sure it's just the nature of the BEAST:headbang: Now I just have to fix the rough idle issue I have. Just got this car a month and a half ago. Trying to get issues solved one at a time. Couldn't even drive it when I got it. Got it going in two days now it a daily driver 100+ miles a day. Love it. If I resolve the bog down issue I'll let you know. Thanks

That is exactly how my 90 loyale cold start is. I thought it was just me. Thanks for the video. Now why does it bog down so bad when I first start driving in the morning? Runs fine after full warm up. Also, how far up does your water temp gauge needle go. Mine will go up to dead middle then drop to 1/4 and stays there at all times. New thermostat & engine temp sensor. Any Ideas?

This is all that I could find. Cool thing is they have molded carpet and vinyl, soundproofing, waterproof underlaymant, and lots more.

Car actuly has very little rust. The bulk of the rust is in rear wheel wells on the front side only. Right were the rear seat belts anchor. I moved seat belt anchors inward in car. I cut a hole in the wheel well and anchored under rear seat. Now all I have to do is re-weld wheel wells. As far as the safty of the seat belts I whent above and beyond I used 1/4 " steal 3x3 square for a back plate and new grade 8 hardware. As for floor pan I took out carpet yesterday and see no rust. Just a small weak spot in rear passenger floor board I think I will reinforce these areas. As I prep for this I guess I'll find if it's rust or not. If It is dont think its to bad. This thread is going way off track. Do aperciate everones info though. Think I'll start a my project car thread.

I think I'll stick with the loyale. Every boater out there has a newer subie. I want someting old school that I've moded out myself. I'm sure it will take several years to get it were I want it, but it will be worth it. I am woried a little about the rust I'm finding. I think the floor pan may be shot:mad:

What year Legacy? I had a 98 forester and loved it. Sold it with over 350xxx on it. I do want to get a older subaru and lift it up a little. I thought this loyale might work. Maybe not:confused:

Any suguestions on what trany next then. Im planing on putting some money into this car over time. I kayak and raft all over the country. So I'll end up needing more ground clearance etc. 5 speed with hi-lo would be great. Just dont know what it is (Model etc.)

Ok, thanks Shawn for the heads up. Just trying to work out all the bugs in this thing. It was owened by a subaru dealership machanic and for some reason its a real mess. I'm getting it figured out a little at a time. With the help of everyone here I should have it in top shape soon. Thanks again, Jeremy

Ok checked with light it was only off by one mark. It is now set at 20` BTDC thanks again for the help. Any ideas on the low rmp shift? Any help would be great.

Any idea why car shifts far below redline? Also if the distributor is already fully advanced and there is no pinging or spark knock how could one advance timing a few deg. and use higher octane fuel just in theroy im not wanting to pay for permium fuel. Thanks guys for the info. This engine is new to me last subie was a forester. I havent owned a car this old in quite sometime. Timing light conects to #1 which is passenger front ?? Right ?

I Just bought a 90 loyale and noticed the distributor is fully advanced. This doesnt seem right to me. If you retard it any the car has no power. My guess is the distributor is a tooth or two off. Also when at full throttle it shifts just before 5k rpm. (AT) Any help would be great.