Tom63050

Am planning to buy a '91 XT6 next week. Can anyone clue me in on specific problem areas with these cars so I can check them out?

Thanks for the info, Adam. Now I've got all sorts of things to think about over the winter (no garage to work in). Tom

Measure the outside diameter of the little pipe sticking up out of the valve cover, then go to any motorcycle shop. Some accessory supplier's catalog will have one that fits over it.

Bump

Any chance of having four pictures on the same page? Maybe an all-brat page, an all-XT page, pre-80s page, etc. Get more people on the calendar and therefore more eye candy.

By the way, did you get that motor in there by lifting it over 4", like Scott did? Any way it will fit within the frame rails, or do I really need to lift it more or mod the frame rails? Without modding the frame rails how much space is there between the valve cover and the frame? Has anyone done the framerail-modding bit, and if so who? I would like to know their experiences.

Tom werk, no play in dert. Try later.

Excellent, just what I needed. Thanks.

Hey Adam, Scott/Subarubrat mentioned in a post that your Brat's radiator setup for the EJ27 is different from his. I couldn't find any pictures on your site that show the engine bay. How did you set up the radiator? I have a 1984 3" lifted wagon I'm thinking of swapping an EJ27 into, but don't want to re-lift it to 6", just mod the frame rails. Any way to stick a rad up front, like in place of the grill? Willing to go the custom-radiator route. Thanks, Tom

Thanks for the info Dave. Odds are I'll get it unless he sells it before Dec 2nd, when I'm scheduled to look at it.

Looks like I'm fixin' to buy Ian's XT6. He has the donut spare tire and I want to replace it with a real rim/tire. Besides XT6's what other soobs had the same 5-lug pattern?

In the back of my Weber book it says that high-altitude jetting changes are as follows: 0 - 5000 feet, no change 5000 - 6700 feet, drop main jets by five (e.g. 140 becomes 135) 6700 - 10,000 feet drop main jets by five more (135 becomes 130) No changes mentioned to air correction jets or idle jets.

There is definitely one by the fuel pump, behind the right rear tire. That's the most important one. Don't know if you also have one in the engine bay. Buy two, keep the spare in the car somewhere along with tools to change it when on the road. Saved my rump roast a few times.

CCR is Colorado Component Rebuilders, a shop that specializes in rebuilding Subaru motors. Very highly recomended by people on the Board who have dealt with them. http://www.ccrengines.com/

EA81 motor, with EA71 pistons for higher compression (available rebuilt from CCR--specify hydraulic lifters if you don't want to have to adjust them); use EA82 intake manifold (better flow than EA81 intake); Weber carb; discuss the merits of the three EA81 cam grinds with CCR. EA82 SPFI motor with EA82 carbed manifild on it (SPFI motor has higher compression pistons than carbed version); Weber carb. Has hydraulic lifters and timing belts, but belts are easy to get to, especially if you install the radiator out of the way.

Besides doing a compression test for diagnostic purposes, a good cheap fix to try is to dump in a bottle of carb/fuel injector/valve/combustion chamber cleaner (STP?). Can make a dramatic difference.

Hate to say it (because puulling the dash is alleged tio be a hassle), but it sounds like your heater core is too blocked for flushing to matter. Probably need a new heater core.

50 at idle sounds bogus, if you're talking about when the oil is already warmed up. 50 with cold oil might be right. 10-15 psi at idle with warm oil is probably about right. Sounds like your gauge is goofy. But 70 could be accurate for when you're moving.

Caboo is right, on many of these carbed cars there're two filters. The main one is under the car, by the fuel pump (behind the right rear wheel). The other one is in the engine copmpartment, by the firewall right in front of the driver. This one is technically not there just to be another fuel filter, but is part of the fuel return system. If you have your fuel pump in the engine compartment, it & its filter will be near the firewall right in front of the driver. I think this applies to early 80s subes, like 80 and 81. (Experts please provide more detail.)

Yeah, stick on a new fuel filter (and keep a spare in the glove box). On carbed cars they can plug up every 10-15K miles. This will at least eliminate this as the problem, if no improvement is seen. This is probably not the problem though, as in my experience a carburetor fuel filter will work fine until it goes out. You will probably get a few miles of bad running, then it dies. Pour a can of fuel sysyem cleaner into the as tank too. Might as well try all the easy/cheap fixes first. Get the kind that cleans the carb/fuel injectors, valves and combustion chamber. I use this stuff once a year. Often there's a very noticable difference, depending on how clogged up the system is. A plugged cat could be the problem. You could cut off the pipe directly behind the cat, and then ream the cat out a bit with a hole saw, to improve flow through it. Then start the car with the cut pipe still not connected, to blow out the particles in the cat. Only do this if you don't have to worry about passing emissions, of course. Otherwise get a new high-flow cat put on. On my 86 MR2 I recently put on a new cat, The old one you could barely see thru, even holding it up to the sun! Gas mileage and power went up considerably, and oh yeah it passed emissions. At the risk of insulting, I presume the air filter is fairly new? I once bought a car with 42K miles that had the original air filter still on it. Horrible gas mileage. When I discovered the old air filter, first I cleaned it and got better mileage. Then I replaced it and got much better mileage.

Be sure to check out state law about how much lift is permitted. Here in VA, in the metropolitan areas at least, they are sticklers about this stuff. Out in the country it may not matter--the Good Ol' Boy thing.

See title.

...I guess the halfway position might close the vent halfway, maybe. So your rocker is only on/off for the AC compressor. Thanks.

...another Loyale A/C question. The dash button for A/C has three positions: up (off), middle (A/C economy), and all the way in (full A/C). How does your blue rocker switch address this, assuming you have a two-position (on/off) rocker switch? Is it A/C in the full-on position? I'm guessing that there are more than two wires where I need to splice in my rocker switch. Or does the push button control a vent being half-open or full-open, as well as on/off for A/C?

Thanx Skip, especially for the A/C question! Otherwise I was going to dump the car and get something with good A/C. Need it here in Virginia in the summer (yeah I know I'm a wimp). The 10-pound mosquito died on the way to work today. Hopefully he won't reincarnate undeer my dash again. Not sure why the noise stopped...everything works tho. Tom