thomasakehoe

So I take it this is Vendor in the holding pattern as it's been a couple months since he posted?

Hi everyone, I am just trying to verify my findings on my MAF sensor this is on my 94 Loyale SPFI. I read through the manual and did the testing. I got 12.5+ volts when I tested the power lead and I got almost 10 Ohms resistance when I checked the ground connection these were both checked using body ground and then when I checked the voltage between the signal wire and ground I got 0.00V so I'm assuming this is why I have the code for MAF blinking at me I just want to verify that it is the MAF sensor and not a wiring issue as the tests are done with the harness connected to the MAF sensor. The harness connectors are tight and really shiny clean so don't think it is at the connection. Is there any way to test the sensor itself disconnected or is that pretty much the same as what I've already done. Thanks.

There was another thread on here just recently stating that the touring wagon was a trim package that had some luxury items and a unique bulged rear roof section. On any "aged" Subaru the main things I'd look at are the floor pans and rockers and by look I mean seriously look for cancer before you spend your money, poke around with a screwdriver, if he doesn't want to let you do that I'd steer clear. Also check the front of the exhaust because if you're going to need to replace the front cat and y pipe in the near future thats another $250 min. price. And just check the fluids for signs of head gasket leaks etc... oil in the coolant or vise versa. I love the older Suby's but just make sure you go over it well and get an idea of what you might have to spend later. Also if it has a check engine light on flash the codes on it to see what the ECUis reporting as problems. Hope this helps. And good luck.

Well got the codes, lovely place to stick your head to see, but anyway. I am getting one code for the EGR valve and another for the MAF so looks like I'm going to have some fun testing those parts and probably replacing them I fear. But at least I know where to look now.

Good info thanks a bunch.

Hey thanks, is the LED on the computer visible without removing the plastic panels (a viewing hole etc....). I've been gone all day buying tools and kid shopping so haven't gotten to check this out.

I found another web page with some detailed info but in both cases I couldn't figure out on mine where the O2 light was (the LED) they were talking about to actually watch blink, I thought the CEL would flash the code but mine just simply stays on.

Looked at your site wish I had found this forum a while ago parts look great, I know they have to be pretty tough but what about the mounting setup any real protection or is it just going to be pretty after the sheet metal behind it gets smashed in? I haven't seen whats behind our stock bumpers so just curious. I'll be ordering a front bumper anyway just because I love the look and then the rear light protectors. Any idea on shipping to Vermont 05255 and whats the build/ship time for these parts. Thanks stuff looks awesome.

Yah it will be replaced soon. I'm going to pull them both and check resistance against the manual specs. Then replace as necessary.

Yah... all that came to mind when I pulled back the carped and saw the mess the previous owner made. Cannot wait to pull out the cobbed in stereo and see what's behind there. I know they didn't use an adapter so I'm sure my stock harness is gone. I found this out after the first night I had the car home and the battery was dead then realized that when ever the parking light switch is left on the stereo is powered up. Nice huh?

Hey thanks a lot one pin in the harness with the red wires was not repairable, so tomorrow I'm going to see if one of the auto parts stores has a 3 wire universal quick connect but now at least I know what they are suppose to be connected to.

WOW I totally spaced. It's a 94 Loyale 1.8L SPFI 5 speed wagon.

Anyone that can look at their ride and tell me there's fiver in it for ya just PM me an address and I'll send it out.

OK figured it out had to twist the clip ounce it was in then they fell right out after I pulled the clip back out. Now I just need to know which colored wire goes in which slot Grrrrrrrrr HAHA

WOW... I am having no luck getting the pins out been through a precision flat head screwdriver, to big, a push pin, way to flimsy, and a girls some kind of hair pin, seems to be small and hard enough but can't figure out how to release them. Well I guess I'm going to have to see if this is in the wiring diagrams in the manual but I doubt it and then just get some new spade connectors and plug one to one.

Yah soldering is in the future, I just had no idea the order of the 2 blue wires or how to get the pins out of the connectors I usually am dealing with VWs and the newer ones have it so you can separate the 2 haves of the clip and just buy new pig tailed pins.

Yah i tried that but it wasn't turning any further and I didn't want to be way over torque. I figure a little tight is better too as the bearings will loosen as the age.

I believe you need to connect the test connectors to lock out the computer from adjusting the timing and then connect the pickup of the timing light the flat clamp to the number one spark plug wire and warm up the engine so the idle is steady it's suppose to be around 700 RPM and then flash the timing light on the timing marks on the crank pulley by pulling the trigger and see where the timing is set at it should be 20 degrees BTDC I believe if anyone else knows more details please chime in. Oops someone beat me to it. didn't know the timing marks were on the back of the engine. Great site for help.

Sorry about the title, but here's the issue trying to undo some previous "MODS" someone did. Under the left side of the dash right next to the hood release is a nest of wires and someone seems to have gotten in there and ripped and cut a couple of them one is I believe a power wire which isn't a big deal other than they cut it so close to the plastic connector there's no room to strip it and reconnect it. So how do you replace the pins inside with a new one or get the old one out and put the wire back on the end? And the other issue is it looks like they pulled the wires out of another connector which has a total of 3 wires the one black wire is still in the harness and the other are both blue one has a yellow stripe and one has what looked like a black but it was dark in there. I need to know which wire goes next to the black in the connector and again how to reconnect into the factory connector is possible. I have a drivers side seat belt that doesn't move and a light that says DOOR LOCK on the dash I'm trying to fix. Here's a pic but it's kind of blurry, but my neck was cramping.

Replaced, coil, ignition wires, spark plugs, cap, rotor, air filter, PCV valve, fuel filter,did an oil change, adjusted the idle to get rid of some stalling issues at idle, tightened up a loose CV joint nut, cleaned the interior out and replaced all the smaller vacuum lines under the hood. Now I need to reconnect some cut wires under my left foor area that work the automatic seat belts.

Might want to just do a quick timing check too.

I've been hearing the same sound for about 200 miles and thought it was just time for a new set of bearings. But after I read this I went out and pulled the hub cap and sure enough the nut was so loose i took the pin out and turned it off by hand. So I got out the torque wrench torqued it down to 150 lbs, was a little tricky trying to find just the right slot ended up having to back the nut off like 8mm to get the pin back through and now no noise, probably will need to be done before winter, but hey it's a nice surprise that it worked. When I bought the car I was told that the CV on that side was just replaced think they might not of put enough grunt into it when they put it back together. LOL

And just a curiosity thing, anyone know what the big yellow and grey connectors are for, other options etc...

In which section of the EA82 manual is the procedure for blinking out the codes I've been reading through everything and haven't come across it yet. Just want to be able to read what is there and clear them out. Did a search under "retrieving codes" "reading codes" how to read EA82 codes" etc... etc... on here and didn't find it. Thanks. Or if anyone wants to give a simple step by step and put it into one of the stickys that might be a good idea. Thanks

I think these are connections in question mine is a 94, but sounded the same.