impoutback 97
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Posts posted by impoutback 97
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I'm not sure if we're talking about mechanical or electronic systems... but for the mechanical systems, they make little boxes that have a small set of gears in them that change the output speed. You just hook them up inline with your current speedometer cable.
Here's one example:
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm
To find them, try doing search for "speedometer ratio adapter". You should get quite a few results, including the electronic type.
Nice find! The custom gear inside the transmission is what i was thinking of and these guys can make them. thanks for the effort.
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From what I've been researching, a 4.11 from a 90-94 Legacy will probably bolt right up, but a 4.44 will require the radius to be trimmed down a bit to fit.
I'd love to rock a 4.44, and if I can find the gears I'll hafta look into having a machine shop turn it for me, but in the mean time I'm gonna look for a 4.11.
Can you share the links please? My phone won't let me use the search option.
Were getting a bit off topic, but oh well.
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Nope, i found the post i was referring to @ offroading subaru.com. reading through the post again, i realized it was for the 8 bolt ej d/r.
does anyone know if this will work on our dual ranges here in the states?
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Wow. thanks for all the info.
I was debating the 4.11 swap. have to cut the main shaft and weld on the 4.11 gear/shaft, here in the states. we don't have 4.11 d/r.
The ratio conversion part looks awesome, anyone try one out on a subaru yet?
Do the tribeca s use the tallest tire for a subaru, or is it the same as a forrester ?
i run out of gas around 225 miles instead of 325 miles @ stock tire size. really i just want to be accurate just for oil change mileage and odometer reading correct.
I've seen an instrument panel manufacturer on 4x4 tv that prints replacement panels. can't remember who the company was but Im sure it can be googled.
Thanks for all the responses!
Also, does anyone have the link for the ea82 d/r 4.11 main shaft swap/weld? The search tool won't work on my phone
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I haven't opened any transmissions and was wondering if the speedometer Gear inside the transmission interchangeable? I have 27" tires now and would like to keep the odometer functional. My final drive ratio is 3.90 in a '97 5MT trans
I'm thinking if I swap the stock gear with one out of a Toyota or Nissan truck, it might work.
Am I even on the right track?
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Those two are virtually identical - to the point that the 2.2 ECU/wireing will run a 2.5 and the 2.5 equipment will run a 2.2 - easily. They use the same injectors, and all the sensors on the manifold, etc..... everything is nearly identical between the two. Software might change a bit but not enough for anyone to notice when running a mixed combo.
That's why the 2.5 to 2.2 conversion is so popular. The engine just plugs right in without a single wireing change.
GD
So are you saying you've driven a frankenmotor with Delta cams and a 2.2 ecu, then swapped the 2.5 ecu and there was no noticeable difference in performance? Or do I have it wrong and the 2.2 and 2.5 share the same ecu in identical production years?
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hey also a newb here, where did u get all your parts? junk yard or online? if online can u share the links?
I know a Guy that buys wrecked outbacks for his vanogan ej swaps
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wow that looks great!
i would love to know what the parts list is for this. after my loyale dies, i want to do an impreza wagon of that era. do the 98 outbacks have lift blocks and the such?
how are the angles on the axles??
Yes the 98 outbacks come with the body lift
I pulled all 4disc brakes as well
Along with the rims and 205/65r15's
No trimming of wheel well needed with this tire size.
Axle angles aren't bad
I think I have a build list on the. Who's who thread
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wow that looks great!
i would love to know what the parts list is for this. after my loyale dies, i want to do an impreza wagon of that era. do the 98 outbacks have lift blocks and the such?
how are the angles on the axles??
Yes the 98 outbacks come with the body lift
I pulled all 4disc brakes as well
Along with the rims and 205/65r15's
No trimming of wheel well needed with this tore size
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98 outback struts
98 outback bodylift
Forrester springs
1" tophat spacers
215/75r15 wildcats
Earned 11.5" rear diff clearance:drunk:
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Sorry, I tried to change the thread title to " hesitating throttle" instead of idle issues. The idle issues were last months problem until the Maff sensor threw a code. Sorry for the mix up.
Right now it hesitates when throttle is applied. Passing cars is a joke and dangerous with the delay in throttle response. That's why I'm guessing it has something to do with the tiire side/ odometer
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I haven't been able to troubleshoot my throttle issue. I've been running premium gas hoping that would fix the problem, adjusted the throttle cables with no satisfying results. I need to replace the valve seals but was told they wouldn't affect the throttle
I've read about bypassing the ecu somewhere I think. Is there another way?
I am thinking it has something to do with the speedometer and the bigger 27" not cooperating with the ecu via the speed ratio gear in the transmission. Has anyone tried. This?ojl
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Nice build man, I've got the same 11.5" clearance with the Forrester springs and outback struts with 1" tophat spacers.
Did you use the ej25 block you spoke of a few pages back?
it works well with the stock 22 heads. I think the dual ports are 2nd Gen. Whereas. My single ports are 1st Gen.
I've been looking into getting a 220 Delta cam regrin:popcorn:d, for some torque. Having second thoughts since its my daily driver and I don't know how it will affect my MPG. My 215 75/15's . My average stock mileage was arround 325 miles a tank of gas. Now its empty arroumd 220 miles on the odometer. I know the mileage is out of wack with the taller tire.
Anyways, good work. Ya got that front LSD rolling yet?
Cheers. Steve
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Hi there, newbie here with a 97OBS. I've been interested in doing the suspension switch myself. Been hearing mixed comments between getting forrester suspension or legacy suspension.
Was this just a direct switch of struts, springs, and mounts? Anything I should know before jumping in?
Thanks!
The forrester rear struts have an inch less wheel clearance than the 98+ outbacks. I took the forrester springs and swaped them into the 98 outback rear struts w/ my impreza tophats and inch thick tophat spacers allong with the 98 outback body lift, swaybars. I think I got 5"+ of lift at the wheel well in back.
Room for the 27" tires im runnin.Youll want to cut/grind the brake line bracket on the strut, just enough so you are still able to reuse the slide washer thingy. That way you wont have to bleed your brakes every time you pull your struts. Also a washer for the nut that attaches the tophat to the strut to take up the play/thud.
I also swapped over the disc brakes from all 4 corners of the 98 outback. Had to splice the but connecters for the abs and adjust the park brake mounts to prevent driveline rubbage.
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Wishful thinking I guess.
Should be close to finished with my 97 OBS build by this winter, then I should be ready for that type of terrain. I just finished installing a 4" lift and 27" tires.
3,000 miles on EJ Frankenmotor
Welded rear diff with axle end swap (run a VLSD diff on road)
98 outback disc brake swap all 4 corners
To do list:
I'll probably do all this at once since Im going to pull my motor to do valve seals anyway
D/R tranny swap (ready and waiting)
port heads
low torque cams (still need to order)
wrx exhaust (ready and waiting)
ABS On/Off switch
front axles end swap for D/R stubs
skid plate (if im lucky)
are you guys running EJ swaps or are they the ea82'S? sounds like your either pulling your mufflers or running a carburated motor. Way more throaty sounding than my EJ.
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I would go with the 205/70R15 unless your willing to trim your fenders and lose the front stock mudflaps. General grabber makes a nice tire also, you can get them at sears.
How much more lift are you thinking of going with the spacers? Ive got 2 half inch spacers stacked on all 4 corners in my OBS, plus the 3.5 inches from the strut swap/body lift. I could make you a set of spacers for less than $300, PM me and we'll talk
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I would if I had low torque cams.
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a 98 legacy outback limited has the brackets/trailing arms your looking for (not sure on the other models) allong with the body lift and beefier sway bars if its your daily driver. You can go with a strut/tophat spacer to give it more wheelwell/lift. then go with a 205/75R15 if you want it to allign straight again (im running 215/75R15 and its really close to the strut) with the body lift and tophat spacers.
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If you want a freeway friendly lift I would suggest adding the body lift from the outback (mine was from a 98 legacy outback) wich moves everything back to tire friendly angles after doing the strut swap.
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I have done the body lift (legacy outback struts, sway bars, body spacers, trailing arm brackets, etc) to my 97 OBS and had it for over a year now. Even though you get more ground clearance at the oil pan with just a strut lift, I went with the body lift to bring the camber back to road/tire friendly angles. Ive been running 205/70R15's since the lift and had to trim and dent verry little to prevent rubbing. I'm currently in the process of trying to fit in a 215/75R15. I plan to add a 1/2" tophat spacer on all 4 struts, some wheel well corner trimming and lip rolling allong with a bit of firewall denting/pursueding. The front mudflaps have to go due to rubbing and maybe even a little cutting and or denting. The rear tire rubs on the front corner of the wheel well/fender. definatly have to bust out the cutting wheel on the fender.
How did your lift go?
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Body: 1997 Impreza Outback Sport
Engine: Franken Motor Hybrid (2.2 heads on 2.5 block)
Other Mods: 1998 Legacy Outback Struts, Disc brakes, tires and wheels, sway bars and frame lift blocks.
Mods in the works: 5speed dual range swap, welded rear diff, 3.90 LSD rear diff swap
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Stellaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!NEW PICS!!!!
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How is it on burning oil? My frankenmotor would go through a quart every 500 miles or so. the higher compression killed the valve seals, or least finished them off.
Did you keep the abs when you swapped to rear disc brakes?
If so, you can wire in a toggle switch to the abs fuse instead of having to pop the hood and pull or plug the fuse every time.
nice pushbar!