Strakes

Yes with a big exception: Not all brands of seats will go 3 across...even in a late model volvo wagon. (We've owned a couple of volvos.) To go 3 across, we took the arm/handle thing off of the infant seat and 3 fit across. All were made by graco...without the frills like cupholders. Find the 3 slimmest seats and you'll be good. Measure your backseat area across and go buy the seats that'll fit that width. They'll think you nuts when you show up at the baby's r us with a tape measure though.

Scan Gauge II http://www.scangauge.com/

Well I've done this a long time ago...IIRC there are about 9 screws that need to be removed as well as the side trim piece on the center tunnel. There may be one or two screws I forgot about after you remove some of the plastic trim. Then the entire door assembly along with the surrounding trim comes out with it.

In my washer tank, the pump for the back is higher up in the tank than the front. Therefore, the rear runs out first of washer fluid from the same tank. I hope that made sense. If after you check for clogs, make sure you fill the tank all the way up to test the rear washer.

Rotate the tires to the front. If the sound moves with it, you know it's a defective tire. If it doesn't, then one possibility is a rear wheel bearing.

Update Checked all the connections on the outside, made sure the clutch pedal and associated switch was working as advertised, and threw my hands up in the air and went to the dealer I trust. Guess what? When I arrived, the CEL disappeared! I was about to throw things at my car . The CEL came back as I drove away...so I returned. Good news: The new neutral safety switch that I just put on is defective. It tells the ECU that I am always in neutral no matter what. The neutral safety switch that I bought online through Jamie, they are going to warranty, I just have to pay for 1/2 hour labor. The only negative news is that I have to wait a fews days before the replacement switch arrives. Thumbs up for Earl Duff Subaru in Harriman, TN. They always seems to make me a happy customer.

I've got one of these: http://www.scangauge.com/ It reads & clears the code everytime...at least it says it did. I hit "clear codes?" and the check engine light disappears for about a couple days and then returns with P0852. I will check the floor mats just in case. If I can't find anything obvious, I may have to take it to the dealer. The local dealer drives me nuts. I may have to drive 40 miles to the dealer I trust.

I am thinking I got a bad switch. Here's why: I had an obscure P1507 code that can be caused by a bad Neutral Safety Switch. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=92333 After replacing the switch...no more P1507 code. Yeah! Now a P0852 code. Doh! From what Nipper says, I am thinking the "new" switch is suspect. I will go check all the wires and connections first, just in case. Thanks guys.

I've got this code on my 2002 model Legacy with a manual transmission. Any ideas where to start?

Thanks nipper. Do you know where the switch is located?

I've got an intermittant P1507 code. I've checked all intake areas for leaks and such and found none. Car runs, idles, drives great. Scanguaged it while driving, and all parameters are operating normally. Just a rare intermittant P1507 code. It appears while driving, as I go through neutral, while shifting between gears. Car has 70000 miles on it. 2002 Legacy GT Wagon, 5 speed manual transmission. Endwrench says: If you are diagnosing a manual transmission equipped vehicle with a DTC P1507 and can find nothing wrong after following the trouble tree in the appropriate service manual, inspect the Neutral Switch Circuit before replacing any parts. The Neutral Switch Circuit may cause this code to set. This could falsely indicate to the ECM that the transmission is in neutral when, in fact, it is actually in gear. This can cause the MIL to illuminate and set Code P1507. Keep in mind that the problem can be intermittent and it may be necessary to pin test the connection and to shift into and out of Neutral many times before the switch shows any problems. Question of the day: Where is the Neutral Switch Circuit? How do I pin-test? Requesting a pic and/or description. Thank you guys in advance.

I've used CRC's Air intake cleaner, and it worked well: http://www.shipstore.com/SS/HTML/CRC/CRC05078.html I don't know if our Subarus are like this, but some intakes have a special coating from the factory that you don't want to "clean" off with a very aggressive cleaner.

A friend of mine has them on his Nissan Sentra. His commute is about 50 miles each way to work, and he bought them back in May. He's put on a few thousand miles on them already. He's not a car nut like me, so he was just looking for a good basic all-season and is pleased with it. I've ridden around in his car with them, and they seem fine as well. They don't seem to excel in any one area, but are really good all around.

I ended up with a big bubble in our old 93's engine block. I filled the system up as best as I could. I opened the bleed screw, started the engine, & turned the heater on. I slowly poured coolant into the radiator as the thermostat opened up and let coolant in the block and pushed the air out through the bleeder. When coolant started to ooze out the bleeder, I closed it and shut everything down and put the radiator cap on. I was surprised at how much air was trapped in the system.

Your cooling sytem may be clogged. Or it has a big bubble of air in it. Check out the following links: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84025 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66821 Burp the system. If you have a bleed screw on the top of the radiator...it's pretty easy. Next time, fill it painfully slow. Start out through the top radiator hose into the engine, then slowly pour coolant into the radiator. If you search the board using "burp", you'll notice that Subarus are prone to getting big air bubbles in their cooling sytems during coolant changes. Good luck!