Strakes

Yes with a big exception: Not all brands of seats will go 3 across...even in a late model volvo wagon. (We've owned a couple of volvos.) To go 3 across, we took the arm/handle thing off of the infant seat and 3 fit across. All were made by graco...without the frills like cupholders. Find the 3 slimmest seats and you'll be good. Measure your backseat area across and go buy the seats that'll fit that width. They'll think you nuts when you show up at the baby's r us with a tape measure though.

Scan Gauge II http://www.scangauge.com/

Well I've done this a long time ago...IIRC there are about 9 screws that need to be removed as well as the side trim piece on the center tunnel. There may be one or two screws I forgot about after you remove some of the plastic trim. Then the entire door assembly along with the surrounding trim comes out with it.

In my washer tank, the pump for the back is higher up in the tank than the front. Therefore, the rear runs out first of washer fluid from the same tank. I hope that made sense. If after you check for clogs, make sure you fill the tank all the way up to test the rear washer.

Rotate the tires to the front. If the sound moves with it, you know it's a defective tire. If it doesn't, then one possibility is a rear wheel bearing.

Update Checked all the connections on the outside, made sure the clutch pedal and associated switch was working as advertised, and threw my hands up in the air and went to the dealer I trust. Guess what? When I arrived, the CEL disappeared! I was about to throw things at my car . The CEL came back as I drove away...so I returned. Good news: The new neutral safety switch that I just put on is defective. It tells the ECU that I am always in neutral no matter what. The neutral safety switch that I bought online through Jamie, they are going to warranty, I just have to pay for 1/2 hour labor. The only negative news is that I have to wait a fews days before the replacement switch arrives. Thumbs up for Earl Duff Subaru in Harriman, TN. They always seems to make me a happy customer.

I've got one of these: http://www.scangauge.com/ It reads & clears the code everytime...at least it says it did. I hit "clear codes?" and the check engine light disappears for about a couple days and then returns with P0852. I will check the floor mats just in case. If I can't find anything obvious, I may have to take it to the dealer. The local dealer drives me nuts. I may have to drive 40 miles to the dealer I trust.

I am thinking I got a bad switch. Here's why: I had an obscure P1507 code that can be caused by a bad Neutral Safety Switch. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=92333 After replacing the switch...no more P1507 code. Yeah! Now a P0852 code. Doh! From what Nipper says, I am thinking the "new" switch is suspect. I will go check all the wires and connections first, just in case. Thanks guys.

I've got this code on my 2002 model Legacy with a manual transmission. Any ideas where to start?

Thanks nipper. Do you know where the switch is located?

I've got an intermittant P1507 code. I've checked all intake areas for leaks and such and found none. Car runs, idles, drives great. Scanguaged it while driving, and all parameters are operating normally. Just a rare intermittant P1507 code. It appears while driving, as I go through neutral, while shifting between gears. Car has 70000 miles on it. 2002 Legacy GT Wagon, 5 speed manual transmission. Endwrench says: If you are diagnosing a manual transmission equipped vehicle with a DTC P1507 and can find nothing wrong after following the trouble tree in the appropriate service manual, inspect the Neutral Switch Circuit before replacing any parts. The Neutral Switch Circuit may cause this code to set. This could falsely indicate to the ECM that the transmission is in neutral when, in fact, it is actually in gear. This can cause the MIL to illuminate and set Code P1507. Keep in mind that the problem can be intermittent and it may be necessary to pin test the connection and to shift into and out of Neutral many times before the switch shows any problems. Question of the day: Where is the Neutral Switch Circuit? How do I pin-test? Requesting a pic and/or description. Thank you guys in advance.

I've used CRC's Air intake cleaner, and it worked well: http://www.shipstore.com/SS/HTML/CRC/CRC05078.html I don't know if our Subarus are like this, but some intakes have a special coating from the factory that you don't want to "clean" off with a very aggressive cleaner.

A friend of mine has them on his Nissan Sentra. His commute is about 50 miles each way to work, and he bought them back in May. He's put on a few thousand miles on them already. He's not a car nut like me, so he was just looking for a good basic all-season and is pleased with it. I've ridden around in his car with them, and they seem fine as well. They don't seem to excel in any one area, but are really good all around.

I ended up with a big bubble in our old 93's engine block. I filled the system up as best as I could. I opened the bleed screw, started the engine, & turned the heater on. I slowly poured coolant into the radiator as the thermostat opened up and let coolant in the block and pushed the air out through the bleeder. When coolant started to ooze out the bleeder, I closed it and shut everything down and put the radiator cap on. I was surprised at how much air was trapped in the system.

Your cooling sytem may be clogged. Or it has a big bubble of air in it. Check out the following links: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84025 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66821 Burp the system. If you have a bleed screw on the top of the radiator...it's pretty easy. Next time, fill it painfully slow. Start out through the top radiator hose into the engine, then slowly pour coolant into the radiator. If you search the board using "burp", you'll notice that Subarus are prone to getting big air bubbles in their cooling sytems during coolant changes. Good luck!

CEL, and ABS lights are not related. I bet that the ABS light is because of the broken tone ring. The CEL is probably because something else. What was the CEL code? I got a CEL and it went on and off a few times over several months until I got a steady CEL that wouldn't go away. The front 02 sensor was the culprit...the code was P0420: catalyst sytem efficiency below threshold bank 1. The Autozone dude, who read the code, immediately declared it the convertor, but wise usmb people told me that the cats rarely fail, and the front 02 sensor should solve the problem. It did. Also, the CEL will disappear after the condition isn't repeated for iirc 3 times. My pesky 02 sensor failed slowly/intermittantly over time, hence the CEL going away and coming back.

Got mine at ipd-rallitek as well. Works well bleeding/flushing the clutch too.

The drive belts (2) and timing belt (1) usually are replaced at 105000 miles as recommended by the maintenance schedule in your owners manual. If you plan on keeping the car, you should save up and get them all done at the same time. The drive belts are super easy to replace by yourself and are about $12 a piece at the local car parts store. The timing belt is much more involved and many people have a shop familiar with Subarus do them.

The following applies to our 1993 Legacy 2.2 Liter and should be the same for your 1990: NGK V-Power plugs Stock temp range: BKR6E-11 One step hotter: BKR5E-11 One step colder: BKR7E-11 NGK's numbering system goes up for colder, and down for hotter. It's a little confusing. Link: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/p2.asp?mode=nml

The top little line flows transmission fluid to the radiator/cooler and the bottom goes back to the transmission.

From under and back of the front fender, the plastic fender liner wraps around the wheel well and under the forward part of the fender. It then tucks into and on top of the bottom of the front bumper cover/shroud. It's one very large piece of plastic. There's even a little spoiler attached to it forward of the tire. The fastener that is attached to the forward side of the liner to keep it secure needs to be removed. Once the fastener is removed, carefully bend back the liner to gain access to the light. The bulb in mine is an H3, but check your owner's manual to be sure. They changed the look of the fog light in 2003, so I don't know if they changed the bulb as well. That fastener is a cheap plastic thing that breaks easily. I put a small bolt with a lock washer and nut in its place after breaking it when I last replaced the fog light bulb.

Sorry man, I didn't take any pics. It will be easier if you drive the front of the car onto ramps before you start. This allows a little more leverage and space to move the plastic liner back. I'll go look at my car this evening and see if I can't give you more details.

Not hard...just annoying. Plan on about 15-20 minutes a side. Pulling the plastic liner back and getting the bulb in without getting it dirty are the only drawbacks.

It is hard to explain until you put a new set of struts on and feel the difference. It's kinda counter-intuitive to do that. Most of us like to have a specific diagnosis before we start wasting money and throwing new parts at a perceived problem. Simplistically the spring on a car likes to oscillate and vibrate. Dampeners (shock absorbers) counter this. Imperfections in the road sets the springs off, the dampener keeps the spring from going back and forth a gazillion times and if gas charged, can help them return to the factory ride height in a much shorter amount of time. The strut's dampening ability wears out so gradually that you may never notice. The ultimate end to a strut failure is complete loss of dampening and can result in some or all of the following: excessive brake dive, tires hopping down the highway, the car bouncing/oscillating all around after hitting a bump or pothole. All of this results in other components taking on more wear such as, strut mounts, tires, ball joints, suspension bushings and etc. With it leaking fluid externally, it won't be that long before the strut loses all dampening ability. Depending on the rate of leak, dampening ability loss may be gradual or quick. The leak may have happened from some or all of the following: -A severe suspension crash through -An impact in that corner in an accident -manufactering defect -very corrosive environment -Gradual wear over time and the internal seals just had enough