Strakes

Nope, it isn't blasphemy. Subaru's current target market is eerily similar to Volvo's. Subaru is really pushing the near-entry-level luxury market. I hope that Subaru doesn't push us regular guys & gals out of affordablity with their push upwards in price. I've owned 2 Volvos in the past. The old 240 series can't be beat, except by rust. I miss my 240 Turbo a lot. The 850 was my $500 car. Everytime it broke (which was a lot) it cost me at least $500 to get it out of jail. I was helping my neighbor this past week put on a set of brakes on his Volvo XC70 AWD wagon, and he tells me that he too has to bail his Volvo out routinely for $500+.

Haven't visited Pullapart...had no idea that they had Subarus. That makes 2 places. Thanks! This board rules.

Sweet! A Subaru yard in our neck of the woods...finally!

Go Dave!

I agree. You've got a lot going for keeping the old car. Since you bought it new, & you've maintained it well...my opinion is that you really don't need a new car unless you really want to part with some cash. If you haven't already done so, I think it would be better if you saved up that "payment" and use it for a sizable down-payment (or like my friend: he actually wrote a check for a new car and drove away with the title in hand.)

have you ever done the timing belt?

I don't know about the swelling that you're talking about. I recommend any brake specific grease/lubricant. Make sure it's brake specific. They are readily available at the local parts store. I have used and have been satisfied with both AGS Sil-Glyde brake lubricant and CRC's Sta-lube brake lubricant.

Did you call them? They are really slow updating their website.

I have no idea what year model yours is. But I have a rallitek/ipd skid plate on my 2002. It works great, it's a little thinner at 1/8 inch thick. However, I have had the pleasure of "testing" it on a tall parking curb and it lifted the whole front of the car off the ground leaving a small scratch in the plate. If you off road, the primitive is your best bet, but the thinner one that I have is perfect for most parking lot adventures. http://yhst-49187380673845.stores.yahoo.net/alskle.html

I have one of their "power bleeders". I am pretty sure it's the universal one that's listed near the bottom of their list. I emailed them and they responded with the correct item for my Subarus. I really like it a lot. You'll only get air in the system if you use it improperly...like letting the brake fluid get low in the pressurized bottle, using too much pressure, or not making sure you get a good seal on top. Works well in both of our cars and a couple of friends have borrowed it and like it a lot as well.

I just put on a set of slotted rotors and hawk hps pads a couple of months ago. All I can say is...nice. In the heavy rain on the highway, there isn't that second to two of no brakes. The brakes are instant. In day to day driving there is no more noise. If you hammer the brakes hard, yes, there is a low groaning noise. On a familiar stretch of road, the brakes do stop the car faster. I have power slot rear rotors and DBA slotted front rotors. So the combo of Hawk Hps and Slotted Rotors with a brake fluid flush (Ate super blue), have helped braking performance for me.

My friend had to return these for is Honda Odyssey. He fell for the deal. They were defective from the factory. He ended up with a set of Coopers that he likes. My brother however, has a set of Hankook H418 that he put on his Cadillac STS and loves them. Regarding this post makes me think about my earlier post. The Kumho ASX's are the tires that I have that give me perpetual balancing issues. They may have other models that are great. I've heard good things about the Kumho KH16. Good luck!

New car? Have you posted any pics for us to see? Sorry, I'm no help with your radio questions.

Regarding Kumho: I agree with Davebugs. I am on my 3rd set of Kumhos because of the prices/rebates. I have promised myself that I am going to change brands next time because of the balancing madness.

By switch, do you mean the switch on the turn signal stalk or the parking light switch on top of the steering column? (There are 2 switches.)

This is not a direct answer to your question but may help: 1: Get a set of snow tires in the same size 2: Getting stuck on "high lips" sounds like another way of saying "high-centered". Then you need to buy an Outback or somehow increase the ground clearance on the GT...don't know how you'd do that. Maybe outback struts, springs and shocks in a swap may be the answer.

Nice new glass! Have you tinted yet?

No, it's not your driving. The clutch is the problem. It may reduce the life of it it may not. My clutch was a judder maniac since new until I had the dealer replace the clutch under warranty after they came out with a service bulletin that addressed clutch judder. However, since your car is outside the 5 year part of your 5 years/60000miles warranty, it may not be covered. With very low mileage like your car, it never hurts to ask your dealer to see what may be covered. The TSB that affects you is: NUMBER: 03-51-02R DATE: 05/01/03 APPLICABILITY: All 1999~2002MY and some 2003MY 2.5L Vehicles; All 2002MY and some 2003MY 2.0L WRX Vehicles SUBJECT: Cold Clutch Judder (revised bulletin) INTRODUCTION In the event you encounter a customer concern of cold clutch judder that goes away after the first few applications, replacement of some clutch parts will be necessary to repair the vehicle. Prior to replacing these parts, you should confirm the engine and transmission mounting is not broken, loose, or misaligned. 2.5L Use Clutch Kit: 32098AA020. This kit contains the following parts (and they can also be purchased separately): Flywheel 12342AA061 Cover 30210AA590 Disc 30100AA851 Bolts (8pc) 800610740

No need to apologize for the rant. Perfectly expected. Those disrepectful bastards!!! We're with you man. Looking forward to pics of your car when it's shiny & healthy again!

2002 Legacy GT wagon. about 62000 miles. Stock/OEM Headers. Front left side header pipe cracked in half at the base of the y-pipe...where the two pipes merge. Sounded kinda neat...but to keep the neighbors happy I had a muffler shop cut and weld in a new section of pipe. Anyone else here have this happen to them? Are both right and left sides prone to cracking, or just the left? Thanks!

How about: http://wps.com/AMC/Gremlin/

I found a body double!!! http://photos.bravenet.com/363/829/894/3/FE795F1D18.jpg

it's okay. The owner's manual for that year is pretty broad in it's recommendations. 5W30-20W50 depending on conditions and temp according to the manual. Your 10W30 won't hurt a thing...unless it's like 40 degrees below 0 where you live then a 5W30 synthetic would be better.

I have one of these: http://www.rallitek.com/alskle.html but for an 2002 Legacy GT. Call them up and see if they have any for your year. They bolt up like 86bratman says. Yes, I've lifted the entire car up on the skidplate unintentionally by driving up onto a parking curb. It left a tiny scratch on the skidplate.

We have KYB GR2s on both Subarus. Here's what I've observed: 1) The up and down undulations of pavement (shallow dips and bumps) are better absorbed and eliminate the sea-sickness of worn out stock or lesser struts like Monroe or Gabriel. 2) The initial impact absorbtion is excellent...and they temporarily "stiffen" up if there are a lot of road variations. Initial absorbtion is just like stock, but after they stiffen up, they feel 10-20% stiffer. This allows a very stock like ride for most trips....yet somehow the slightly stiffer damping does not punish your kidneys at all. Conclusion: I highly recommend the GR2s. Also consider replacing the strut mounts at the same time.