Strakes

1993 Legacy L Wagon 173500 miles on original engine. 4EAT Transmission quit a year ago...so it has a newer (used) one with about 47000 miles on it now.

I have an IPD rear sway bar. I love it. With the stock springs, the handling was pretty much neutral and the lean was gone. Since then I have put on H&R lowering springs and KYB GR2 struts. Had a great alignment shop work with me to keep the car handling neutral after all the suspension changes.

Keep bugging the crap out of Discount until they replace the defective tire(s). I've had BFGs before and they were nice and smooth, BFG is owned by Michelin, so the quality is pretty good. If you come to the point of replacing them with another brand, keep in mind that a Hunter-Road-Force Balance machine can pinpoint the cause of vibration. Here's a link to the kind of machine the shop should be using: http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/features/how.cfm Also, I've had a bad balance job and the above stated machine they were using had not been calibrated in a very long time. After re-calibrating, re-balancing, the vibration was gone.

Just a guess...do you think you bought a defective drive axle?

Shiny! I love the pic of all the change you found!

Glad that things are working out for you! Sounds like you have a good dealer.

Josh, the car looks very nice!

On our 1993 Legacy, I went through 2 aftermarket mufflers that had an annoying drone that developed on the highway. Then I put a barely used late model subaru muffler on. The Subaru muffler is nice and quiet.

I haven't heard of anyone messing up their transmission with the cocktail. I've been using it and love it. Some are concerned that it isn't up to the owner's manual recommendations of keeping it all one brand of fluid. Plus, I think the GM synchromesh is GL4 and that may get some raised eyebrows. So taking their legitimate concerns into consideration, I like to change my transmission fluid more often to compensate for the lack of 100% GL5 fluid. IIRC, the main difference between GL4 and GL5 is the percentage of certain additives...GL5 having more of them.

On the NASIOC, many run "Uncle Scotty's Cocktail": 1qt Redline Lightweight Shockproof 1qt Pennzoil or GM Synchromesh 2qt Castrol Hypoy-C 80w-90 To avoid the "is it going to fry my transmission", many change this every 10-15K miles.

http://www.caranddriver.com/features/1906/speedometer-scandal.html and http://www.caranddriver.com/features/1907/speedometer-scandal.html

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681 Check out the above thread. See if that helps.

In that case, I hope the one I get has the pulley attached.

Thanks guys! Flushing the system sounds like a plan. Metal pieces floating around can't be good. Did you take the pulley off and reuse the old one? Mine looks in good shape.

1993 Legacy 2.2 wagon 2WD It had a funny noise every now and then. The noise was coming from the power steering pump area. So I took the belt off and spun the power steering pulley and there was a grinding feeling. I think the bearing is about to go. How hard is it to replace the power steering pump? Anyone done this before and have any advice or suggestions? Thanks guys!

What uniberp said. I have used POR15 and it works well if you intend to repaint. If you just want to stop the rust and aren't worried about looks, use some par-al-ketone thinned with mineral spirits and a spray bottle: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/paralketone.php

Bilsteins are very nice. I used to have the monotube gas on an old Volvo and loved them. Never used them on a Subaru. Some JDM versions of subarus have Bilsteins. I doubt the quality from Bilstein would be an issue and should give you good service. On both of my Subarus, I am running the KYB GR2s. I really like them. KYB makes the OEM struts for subaru. I would recommend that you get the same brand and version struts on all four corners. Otherwise you may run into some weird handling issues. Finally, if you are going to get the outback struts, I am not sure, but you may need to replace the springs as well.

You'd still have to get under the car to remove the oil filter. So I don't see how this saves you the "getting under the car" step. Have you considered this: http://www.fumotovalve.com/ I have them on my cars and like them a lot.

If your old exhaust is falling apart, you can have a muffler shop custom bend the pipes for you and place the newer muffler and resonators on your 1991. That may save you some cash. I went through 2 aftermarket mufflers that droned. I finally took an used low mileage '02 model legacy/outback muffler and had it welded onto the '93 legacy. It's nice and quiet now.

Two of my friends, one with a Mercedes E series CDI, the other with a PT Cruiser that have sets of Exaltos, and they are very pleased with the tires performance.

I just did brakes on my wife's 93 legacy. The pads that I used had a label where each pad went, such as "RH Inner, LH Inner" and etc. With that in mind, I installed them just like it was labeled and the metal tab that's riveted on ended up being the inner pad at all 4 locations. I used brake grease/lubricant/anti-squeal on the backs of all the pads and shims.

Yabadabadoo!

The brake job went very well. Thanks for the advice guys! The rotors were less than the minimum thickness that was stamped into it: 22mm front and 8.5mm rear. So I tossed them. With 170000 miles, I suspect they are the originals. As for the quality of parts, I put in PBR/Axxis Metal Master pads with PBR/Axxis rear rotors and OEM front rotors. After bedding/breaking the pads and rotors in, the car really stops much better than with what was on there.

Ah ha! I knew I forgot something! Thanks guys for your advice! I've done a cheap "autozone" brake rotor & pads before...wasn't very happy with the performance. Thanks again!

Hey guys, I've replaced struts myself and am pretty good with working on my cars and have done brake jobs on Volvos. Anyways, I need to replace the brakes on my wife's 1993 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2WD. How much time should I budget for brakes? Would a Sunday afternoon suffice? And am I missing something from the following list before I start? 4 brake disc rotors Front pads Rear pads Motive Products Power bleeder for flushing brake lines and bleeding brakes. High Temp Brake Lubricant made for slider bolts, backside of pads & etc. Spray Brake cleaner P'Blaster for any hard to remove bolts. Haynes manual Thanks!