desertsubaru

from endwrench article H-4 and H-6 service): All 2.2 liter engine for 1999 are the Phase 2 design.

Should be a direct swap. As for the cost to swap personally I wouldn't pay more then $400 for the job. Of course I would just do it my self LOL.

I have used seafoam in all my vehicles for at least 20 years and have never had a problem. It is also a good fuel stabilizer that helps disperse water out of the fuel. http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/

Even though I agree that most additives are snake oil Seafoam does work removing carbon build up. He does not have to run it through the system just soak the part that is carboned up in it. I even use it to clean carbon build up in my guns. I also agree on running the heck out of it to help remove carbon build up.

I looked on Rock auto and the part numbers are the same from 1990 to 1998 on the 2.2. I am sure someone on the board here that knows more about it will confirm the years you can use.

Seafoam and throttle body cleaner both remove carbon so either should work. Always wort giving a call to jys to see if they have any.

Any junk yards in your area? Try cleaning it by putting Seafoam in it and letting it soak for a while.

Read the post above yours.#17

Google how to test the IAC with a multimeter..

I had the same thing happen with an EA82 wagon. It turned out that the radiator was internally blocked. Try a Radiator flush first before replacing the Rad.

Yes that is the FPR.

Probably wasn't torqued right.

Thats Great! Subes are easy to work on when you get use to them. I would rather work on a sube then my 94 Jeep GC with5.2, Hell it takes almost an hour just to change dist cap and wires on it.

IMO it is easier to pull the engine. Do the rear main while its out.

Why are you trying to torque them down?

https://www.google.com/search?q=subaru+2.2+timing+marks&biw=1280&bih=866&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=PV6IVZHyLo2iyAT275roDw&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAw

Crank looks correct. Cant tell on the cams though. Your not talking about the white marks on the cam bolts are you? The cam marks are on the lip of the cam pulley, should be little hash marks on them..

Yes center is crank, two sides are cams. Like I said put some paint on the marks then take pics of all three gears.

I cant tell by your pics because i cant make out the timing marks. Do you have some white out or paint you can put on the cam marks? Also need pic of crank marks.

If you set the marks right it cant be 180 out because it don't have a distributor, Timing is set by the crank and cam sensors and controlled by the ECU.. Do the basics, check for spark first and compression.

You should be ok then. Reset timing and drive on. To be sure though after you get the belt back on turn the engine by putting a socket on the crank bolt and turn it over a few times.

Follow this http://lovehorsepower.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48:1995-subaru-legacy-outback-timing-belt-and-water-pump-replacement&catid=10:subaru-legacy&Itemid=64 or look on you tube. You may have bent valves though.

Need more info. Are you replacing the belt?

It also depends on the size of the cat. Walkers site says 500f. Either way the digital thermometer can be used to check for an emissions problem. http://www.walkerexhaust.com/support/diagnosing-converter-issues/check-converter-temperature