desertsubaru

So it had lack of oil and extreme over heating recently. Probably best to swap engines at this point.

At this point your probably better off getting another used engine that is running and known to be good. Engine swap is easier then head gasket job.

+1. Take the line that goes from the tank to the pump off the pump side and blow compressed air up it to see if that helps. If the pick up is clogged and you blow air up then the fuel starts pouring out you know that is your problem. You should have fuel come out of the line that goes to the tank by gravity when you tank it off the pump. There should also be an access panel under the carpet in the back of the rear seat to change the sending unit. You can unbolt it then take the sending unit out to inspect the inside of the tank with a flash light. Look for rust. DO NOT USE A MATCH! LOL

Did you look inside the hubs?

Sounds like the splines in the hub got tore up because of the bad cone washers. Remove front axles and inspect the splines in the front hubs and on the axle stubs..

Every bolt has a torque specification but a lot of people just tighten them down hard thinking that seals better when in truth it over compresses the gaskets. If you go cheap now you will just have problems later. While you have the engine out reseal it.

Thats area dependent on finding EA82s. Here in West Virginia they are as rare as hens teeth.

Might as well get a complete gasket set and reseal the engine.

Someone didn't happen to pull the intake without draining the cooling system did they. If you do that the coolant drains into the cylinder and that will make it drip out the exhaust.

Neat!

Its all in this write up. If you read it you would have your answers. Also if you search you will find hundreds of threads on the swap. EA81 and EA82 swaps are about the same.

Price is for one side. You need two. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200711649216?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Didn't read the whole thread but what I did read I didn't see mention of The snow plow for the Brat.

Its your car to do what you want with it but it will have more value if you ever sell it in stock form.

This is the adapter for the EA81. The rest of the write up is the same, only the adapter is different. http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/invtocartweber.asp?Part1=99004.110

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74206

Not a Hotwheel but in the 80s they made a Stompers Brat.

Yes it can be done. Use the search button and you will get hundreds of threads on what you need to do it.

My 85 3at FWD does the same thing.

I once had a bad radiator and couldn't afford one for a few months so I took the A/C condenser out (A/C didn't work) and put it up where the spare wheel sits with an electric fan on the condenser then hooked it to my heater hoses. It cooled the engine very well.

My set up is 85 2wd wagon 3AT. weber 32/36 no emissions, plugged egr, timing at 12 BTDC. Runs great with no pings or dieseling on shut down. I get about 25 MPG highway and 22 city. The 3ATs are known gas drinkers.

If the tube and valve get carboned up then what about valve seats and stems? That cant be good.

How does putting hot exhaust gasses back into the intake lower combustion temps. Also why did Subaru do away with it in newer models.

Then why is it only on one head?

I keep forgetting about emissions. If you need to pass them you need it. I have went to a plumbing store though and got a plumbing plug that fits the threads in the head.