timintc

if you remove the filter and also jack up the car on the front passenger side you will get a lot more out i also second the tip about then pouring it into a windshield washer bottle to determine how much you need to add back in. at the same time i did this i also drained both differentials and refilled with semi-synthetic gear lube and an convinced it increased my gas mileage some

about to do a brake job on a 2000 legacy and im finding that the parts, pads and rotors, from the parts stores ( napa, advance auto) are more friendly to my budget than oem from the dealer, so im wondering what parts have you readers had good success with other than from the dealer,

what is causing my radiator fan to run intermittantly? im talking about the auxillary fan, now i understand in the summertime when its hot out but here in N Michigan in winter it shouldnt be coming on at all, do i have faulty temp sensor, btw i have a 2000 legacy wagon with 105000 that just had the timing belt replaced plus water pump and all the other goodies that you should do when doing that job.

am about to tackle my rear brakes on a 2000 legacy wagon, and am wondering amongst other things is, should i invest in a torque wrench ? as i have seen other post alluding to torqueing the caliper bolts, and what is the proper torque on these bolts?

ok heres the lowdown, crank seal, camshaft seal, anti freeze, water pump, timing belt, serpentine belt, serpentine belt ac, labor @ $288 plus checked out my brakes, they were worn but ok, and a few other noises that i was wondering about, out the door $561.12

take a vacation to traverse city and pay a visit to the Subaru Guys, a father and son operation that do nothing but subarus, read my post here about my recent experience with my 105k timing belt replacement, 570 bucks with all the seals drive belts and water pump, plus they looked over several other question areas, like the brakes and some noises, and gave me their diagnosis at no extra charge.

i inquired about the idlers and they gave me the quote on the cost, pretty pricey i might add, but they recommened that on the first t belt change not to do them.

just had my car in for t belt replacement and the mechanic told me that i had a " roar" whenever he stepped on the accelerator and told me that whoever changed the air filter last didnt seal it properly ( me probably) and that was causing a noise on accleration, hope this helps. sometimes we look for complicated problems when they really are very simple with these cars.

i own a 2000 legacy L just turned 103k and it was timing belt time, plus all the other assorted accessories that go along with that, water pump, seals, drive belts etc. I took it to my local subaru specialist here in Traverse City, its in northern michigan for those not acquainted with these parts, they call themselves the Subaru Guys, basically a father and son operation, now you cant swing a dead cat around these parts without hitting some form of subbie or another so it makes sense that a guy could make a good living specializing in subarus, even with a subaru dealer in town im sure he does quite well, well enough of the plug for him, bottom line out the door was $561.12, and i was wondering what others around the country pay for the same job, be it from dealers or independant mechanics.

wow did that ever answer my question thanks loads, that is what makes this such a great site, i did clear the code and after a few short trips it has not come back so i will keep my fingers crossed, all that 02 sensor and catylitic converter talk is scary.

2000 legacy wagon 97K CEL came on today i thougth oh boy another knock sensor well went immediately to Auto Zone the reading they got was, Catalyst below threshold bank #1, i figured O2 sensor, anyone else with this problem ever? btw I unhooked the battery and cleared the code, made sure all the spark plug wires were seated properly, then hooked the battery back up and took it for a short drive without the CEL coming back on, if anyone has any input id greatly appreciate it.

i switched mine to 80w90 valvoline semi synthetic, dont know it it any correlation but ive been getting noticealby better gas mileage out of my 2000 legacy, fully loaded in two weekend trips two adults two kids and the back of the wagon fully loaded ive averaged just over 30 mpg on both trips, my around town driving im getting between 27 and 28 mpg,

ive got a 2000 legacy automatic 94K i just recently did both differentials with valvoline semi-synthetic and drained the tranny twice second time installed a new filter i with valvoline max life dexron III and also while i was at it said what the heck and changed the oil to 5w-30 valvoline max life over the past few months ive done the spark plugs and wires and fuel filters and switched from K&N back to a paper element filter and in a mix of city ( small town) actually and 40 miles back and forth to work every day on a two lane hiway at 60-70 mph im getting 27-28 mpg and am quite happy with that cant wait to put it on the hiway on our annual trip to detroit and see what it gets on the freeway

i did the drain and fill method recently on my 2000 legacy 93K , first time got out about 4 quarts poured the drain pan into a quart windshileld washer fluid bottle. waited bout two weeks bought a new filter and with the jack under the passenger side front tire to help me get under the car, it also allowed me to drain 6 quarts out with the filter removed. even with replacing what was drained its not all that easy to read that dipstick, tho a mechanic told me that of the two sides of a dipstick its the low side thats the accurate one. if anyone has an opinion i used valvoline max life atf and all seems to be working well two weeks afterwards, i cant think of anything more rewarding than spending an afternoon changing fluids on the subbie, but now with the differentials, crankcase and tranny done now theres hardly anything left to do

well the differentials went well, priced an external filter to the tranny yesterday at the dealer and today at Napa, was actually cheaper at the dealer 33 something vs 36 at Napa. Did find out something interesting from the Napa parts guy, he even showed me on his puter screen that the tranny in my 2000 Legacy is made by Mazda, true? Ok anywho, has anyone tried Seafoam transmission treatment before flushing/ changing fluid ? I was going to try the method suggested here about draining 4 qts or so at a time and adding a like amount until you pretty much have new fluid in there. So would you put the new filter on after the first drain or after the last one?

found like some sort of metallic sludge on the magnets that are on the inner side of the drain plugs, must be the gears grind up everything metallic that gets shaved off and then it transforms into sludge that is picked up by the magnets, interesting.

its 13/16 if anyone needs to know

the hole in the middle seems round not squared like the rear

What size socket would one use on the drain plug of the front differential of a 2000 A/T Legacy. Its larger than 13/16 and 17mm, 20mm perhaps?

Probably going to do the timing belt here in the upcoming year, 2000 legacy, has about 90k on it now, i have the understanding that they should be changed at 105K? What id like to have an opinion on is what all else should be done at this time while my mechanic is in there? And by the way everyone should have such a mechanic as i would love to plug The Subaru Guys here in Traverse City, specializing in nothing but Subarus, what a job that would be to have. Thanks in advance for all your help. btw, i bought her used at 60k and cept for the head gasket, which SOA extended the warranty on and fixed at no charge and a knock sensor its been a great car.

I had a 91 with the same symtoms after inspecting the plugs some of them had carbon on them, indicating that the spark was traveling down the outside of the insulator, so after changing the plugs and fuel filter a new set of wires fixed the problem, good luck with yours

I had a 91 and had a problem that perplexed me much as yours is doing, intermittant rough idle like it was going to stall, the clue was carbon on one of the spark plugs seems the current was escaping the boot and going down the ceramic part of the spark plug, a set of wires and she purred just like she did before, oh by the way this happened with about 130,000 on it two years ago. hope this helps

Had my first experience with the check engine light around the same mileage in my 2000 legacy and turned out to be the knock sensor.

It is Service Program WWP-99 and mine was a uses 2000 Legacy and after one phone call to the zone office they told me to take it to the local dealer and they replaced the gaskets under their Warranty Extension

2000 legacy had that smell since i bought it used from a dealer, wasnt until about 6 months later i had it checked out and sure enough my worst fears were true, at first the dealer wanted 480 bucks to install new head gaskets but after making a call to the zone office i was on my way back to the dealer with an " extended warranty" and soon after got a letter titled Service Program WWP-99 which told of the additive and offered reimbursements for any head gasket replacements on vehicles under 100,000 miles,