Ionlyhave3suubs

All is back together. Plugs and wires did the trick on the bucking. Although a lot of other things were done during this repair episode, I firmly believe that plug wear was the #1 contributor to the bucking. They were worn to the point that the gap was twice what it should have been or more (visually inspected, not measured). I went ahead and did the wires too. I should be good to go for a long time. Also did the air filter.

Anyone have the torque specs for the oil pump bolts and cam gear bolts? BTW anyone who may be reading this for their own info, when replacing the front crank seal on this engine, it is easiest to remove the seal after you remove the oil pump. It is easier to re-install the seal after you have the oil pump bolted back on. I boogered the first seal when I was trying to put the pump back on. Luckily I had a second one laying around from a previous accidental overpurchase.

I pulled the oil pump and discovered slight seepage around the front crank seal and suspect possible seepage at the top right of where the oil pump mates to the block. I plan to replace the front seal, o-ring and re-seal the oil pump to the block. Anything else I should do while I have the oil pump off? Where do I get the anaerobic sealer? Will rtv work here as well? Torque specs on the oil pump?

The cam seals are dry all around, as well as the front crank seal. . Is there something higher on the block that could be a likely leak point for the oil to run down where I am seeing it?

Ok, giving it a try through manage attachments section. Looks like it works as a thumbnail. Good enough!

When I click on that I get url location message. Does the image have to be posted elsewhere on the internet before I can post it here?

I updated my avatar to a picture of the leak. How do you insert a pic on the post?

Ok, I have it all apart and I have a mystery oil leak that I have not encountered on any of my 2.5d engines. The oil appears to be coming from just above the water pump and slightly to the left. There is a crevice there and what appears to be an allen headed plug in the area. What is leaking and how do I fix it?

It should fit the opening just fine. Looking at the design, It looks like you will have to make sure your cup holder is pushed all the way in to insert or eject CDs. My biggest complaint with mine is that it is near impossible to see the controls on my stereo with the cupholder out. Most of the time I take a drink with me so the holder is out.

I have seen in several threads the mention of Delta Cams. I went to their website but could not find any information on pricing. Anyone have any info about cost? Do you send them your cam and they re-grind it for you?

Ha! tell that to a Forester lover! Thanks for the link.

I picked up the timing belt stuff, plugs and wires today. Fixed the trans line leaks on the "97. Ready to get the "97 state inspection tomorrow and get started on the timing belt and ignition components tomorrow (did not drive '02 today drove my gas sponge {suburban}). I have a Haynes manual for second generation Legacy but not for third gen. Is the timing belt procedure the same as for a second gen SOHC (such as 2.2)? Is there something I need to know getting in to this project? All of my experience with EJ series timing belts have been 2.5D engines. Do I need to just break down and buy a book for gen3 Legacy?

I usually order my car stereo components from crutchfield.com. Their staff is very knowledgeable and they offer customer support for their products for life. They also will send you a wiring harness and installation kit (if needed) as well as detailed installation instructions (at no cost for stereos over $129). They also have techs that will help you over the phone if you run into a snag. Excellent for a do-it-yourselfer. Below is their link to what they have to fit your car. Unless you really want a double din size deck, you can probably find the features you want in a single din for less money. My "97 outback has an aftermarket (kenwood) single din cassette deck, stacked over a cd player Same brand. Both components are full single din size and made to work with each other. Both are near as old as the car and still in good working order. The tape deck was one that I already had and installed in the car when I bought it in 98, and I ordered the cd player a short time later. To answer your question, it should fit, but I would make sure by asking the salesperson at Best Buy, if that is where you decide to get yours. http://www.crutchfield.com/g_300/Car-Receivers.html?showAll=Y&tp=5684

Is it a problem to use a short block with >150k for this build? One of my cars has 156k the other 230k. I know the 230k mile engine is probably pushing it. Has anyone done any dyno testing to see what kind of power these engines actually put out?

2.5d Has separate cams for intake and exhaust on each head. 2 cams per head, 4 cams per motor.

I have a 97 Outback wagon and a 96 Legacy LSi. The Outback has standard cloth seats and the LSi has the leather seats. The LSi seats are much more comfortable. I find that the Outback seats, no matter the lumbar adjustment, don't support my lower back very well. The part that adjusts out with the lumbar adjustment is too high. Or maybe I am just too short for the seat at 5'8".

Thanks, Timing belt and tune-up will be my next project. I just need to get replacement transmission fluid to cooler hoses purchased and installed in 97 and I'm ready to tear into the 02. Unfortunately the parts stores were closed when I discovered the leak.:-\

Why is the rum always gone? Merry Christmas to all!

Great information so far. I am assuming this engine will require premium fuel at the minimum. Good sources for non stock sized components? Oversize bearings? Oversize Pistons? Re-ground cams? When going from DOHC to SOHC is it as simple as using the SOHC belt or is it necessary to change idler and tensioner pullies? Use 2.5 intake? Which head gasket should be used with 2.5 block with 2.2 head?

Timing belt is on the to-do list. Am I mistaken in thinking that the 02 SOHC 2.5 is a non-interference type engine? The timing belt was put on the back burner to my 97 OB with bad headgasket. (had to have something to drive while fixing 97). I know BAD things happen on the 2.5d when the timing belts fail (fortunately not from personal experience) but I was under the impression that yes you can get stranded, but no major engine damage (bent valves, piston damage, etc.) on the non-interference engine with belt failure.

Ok, first of all, I know there are some on the forum that have built these motors and my hat is off to you. Let me start by saying, I have the greatest respect for those who take the risk to build something unique. My question is more related to the fact that there are things I don't understand about the motors and why to build them. Please set the record straight! My understanding of the Frankenmotor is that you start off with the shortblock of a 2.5L engine, then add the cylinder heads from usually a 2.2L SOHC engine. What I am wondering is, if you are going to the trouble of rebuilding the shortblock of a 2.5 engine why change the heads? Is it because the 2.5d engines have 2 cams each and it is cheaper to buy 1 reground cam per head than 2? Does no one make a reground 2.5d cam? Is there some other benefit to the 2.2 head over the 2.5d? Another question, If I were to put a frankenmotor into one of my wagons, will the factory computer work? Both of my wagons have auto trans and EGR. Would I keep the 2.5 intake? How do you select a good 2.5 core to re-build? Often times it is difficult to know the history of a junkyard motor. As many know these motors are prone to headgasket failure and subsequent overheating, which can lead to warpage and potential bearing failures. All of the ej series subarus I have owned have been 2.5L engines, the first 3 have/had the 2.5d, my '02 OB has 2.5 sohc. I am considering building a frankenmotor for future use in one of my wagons.

Sorry left out those details. It is a SOHC 2.5 4cyl, 5spd manual. Unknown mileage on the plugs and wires. Could be the originals, I bought the car with around 90k, so other than regular oil changes, I don't have much on the maintainence history. I have only done oil changes on this car and clutch (and related parts). I have done nothing to the ignition components. On my older suubs I have always gone with the OEM wires and NGK plugs and plan to do so on this one as well. While on the topic, what feedback do is out there on the the different grades of NGK plugs. The last couple of times I have gone with the iridium plugs. Am I wasting money on something I don't need. Are the cheaper plugs suitable, last as long?

My 02 Outback started "bucking" on acceleration recently. The car has 122k miles on it now. No CEL lighting up. the bucking stops if you downshift enough to bring the RPMs way up. 5spd. Any ideas? This is a new condition. I have had the car since 90K. It has been running great up until recently.

It's gotta be the muffler bearings:lol:, just kidding, I vote ball joints.

It is going to be tempting to try the drilling with the engine still in the car, but a word of caution, it is real easy to drill into the the block if you get the angle only slightly off.