Ionlyhave3suubs

Fuel pump is definitely my next destination. My comment about it not being a Subaru was more about how long it has taken to track down the problem, mainly due to how difficult lots of the components are to get to. I think I am on week 5 of trying to resolve this driveability issue, at one point I gave up on it and took it to a mechanic, and they couldn't track it down after having it a week. So I dug back into it, still working at it, have a good idea now what to do next, but as of yet, still not fixed. Dropping the tank looks like pretty much the only way to get to the pump. The bed/cab is all one piece, like an overgrown station wagon. Then there is the sawsall to the floor of the bed approachzzz

I found that the vacuum hose going to the fuel pressure regulator was deteriorated and cracked, replaced the regulator and hose, problem persists. According to Haynes manual if you pinch the return hose and the pressure goes up, replace the pressure regulator. I did, it did, I did, still not fixed. Looking at fuel pump next. Fuel pressure still at only around 50 psi. Why doesn't Subaru make something big enough to pull big trailers?

Allright, I picked up a pressure gauge at Advance Auto, It reads about 50psi at idle in park or neutral. Haynes manual says the proper range is 56-62 psi. Apparently the proper term for this fuel injection is Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI). And it does have 8 injectors hidden under the top half of the 2 piece intake manifold. Haynes says to slowly pinch the flexible return hose to see if pressure increases to normal range. If so, to replace the pressure regulator. It's raining hard right now and I don't have any help to watch the gauge while I pinch the line. I noticed when in neutral or park the pressure seemed to hover right at 50psi. In drive, it fluctuated up and down about 5psi intermittently. In drive, giving it throttle holding it stopped with brakes, the pressure would climb into the 60psi range where it should be at about 2000 rpm.

The 8th character in the vin is a "J". Where can I get an appropriate fuel gauge to test the pressure? This is a multi point fuel injection system. Is there a secondary filter on this thing I need to check? I changed the one that is mounted near the frame about mid-ship.

I'll most likely start working on it again on Sat. Tomorrow I have to work 8am to 11pm so I won't get to it tomorrow. If I get it resolved I'll post what it was. This engine is not the throttle body fuel injection type, it has the multi-injector vortec system. My "93 I used to have had the TBI, now that one REALLY sucked the gas! 10mpg on a good day! BTW, I did replace the cam sensor (it's in the distributor), didn't help. Have also tried buying gas from different stations, wasn't bad gas.

Timing chain, I haven't checked that yet.

Removing the engine makes the job a lot easier in my opinion, especially when it comes to dealing with the head bolts. You can't get all of the bolts all of the way out so it's a bear to deal with especially on the re-install with head bolts sliding all around as you fish the head down between the block and body/frame. Torquing to proper spec is also a lot easier, not to mention being able to see what you are doing better, and being able to clean the mating surface of the block better. Good time to check for leaky oil separator plate as well.

I am having problems with my 96 GMC Suburban and can't seem to get help elsewhere. It has a bad miss under load, it seems intermittant, and I cant track it down. I have done the basic tune up things, Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter, vacuum leak check, inspection of wiring harnesses to sensors. No CEL, no codes when scanned. The engine is a 454. here is a link the forum where I was trying to get help. http://www.truckforum.org/forums/chevy-truck-forum/29368-chevy-454-engine-in-96-gmc-suburban-miss.html#post201331 as of my last posting I had 57 reads and no replies. If anyone has ideas let me know. This is my truck I use to tow a camper from VA to Myrtle Beach every summer and to pull my car trailer for new purchases. I also drive it about once a week around town. thanks in advance!

I have never built one myself, but from what I have read, cam upgrade is an important part of the upgrade. here is a link to a thread I started looking for information about frankenmotors. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118814&highlight=frankenmotor

Sounds a bit different form the problem I was having. The video of the temp gauge sure looked familiar though. I purchased my permatex anaerobic from my local advance auto store. It was on the rack with the rest of the other sealants. Best I recall, it was a bit pricy compared to the rtv types. It comes in a blue tube. If they stock it in one store, they should be able to order it from one store to another at no shipping cost to you.

After a temp "spike" how is your coolant level in the radiator? My Lsi with similar symptoms seemed to belch out about half of its capacity or so during these episodes.

From personal experience with making cast aluminum parts look good, I like to just paint my parts "aluminum" color. Seals the pores so it is easier to keep clean, looks shiny, and if some chips off, it doesn't look so bad. If you paint it a different color, chips in the paint show worse and if it starts to flake off, it will look worse than if you had just left it natural.

My '96 Lsi displayed very similar symptoms when the HG failed. My theory on why the temp "spikes" then goes back down is as follows: The exhaust gasses start leaking into the water jacket through the compromised seal. The high heat super heats the coolant, causing the temperature "spike". The super heated coolant is forced out of the water jacket causing the coolant gauge to go back down. Just a theory, but replacing the HGs fixed the problem on mine. Have you tried the little blue bottle (or 2) of the subaru coolant conditioner?

I am unfamiliar with driveshaft removal in these vehicles, never done a Subaru driveshaft. is there something that will hold that front section in place with the rear section removed, and how hard is it to separate the pieces? I have been doing quite a bit of reading on electric vehicle conversion and what concerns me about the process is the potential for getting stranded without a place to re-charge. My plan for the car is to use as my to and from work daily commuter vehicle. I have about a 26 mile commute to work. About 11 miles of the commute is highway with a traffic flow of 65 mph. My return trip home is around 15 miles. The difference being I drop my kids off at school on my way to work. That leaves a 41 mile total trip to and from. That does not take into consideration if I have to run over to another work site which I sometimes do. The 41 miles is close to the limit on the range of many electric cars without a re-charge. Unfortunately re-charging the car at work is not an option, thus the reason I am looking to extend my range with a gasoline engine at highway speeds where the gas engine is at its best fuel efficiency. Just for further consideration, the car is loaded with around 470# of people on the way in and only 170# of me on the way home. Total of 4 people including me going in. Plus maybe 100# of bookbags, musical instruments, lunchboxes, etc.

A fix that has worked for me on a similar application, seems similar to the one mentioned by Loyale 2.7 turbo. You already have a hole sounds like the bit started walking off the side of the bolt and got into the softer aluminum. Possible solution: go ahead and clean up the hole by drilling it out to round again the next size that is big enough to make a round hole but no larger than absolutely necessary. make sure it is at a 90 deg angle. then tap it for the appropriate sized bolt for the new hole. screw the bolt in then cut it off flush with the rest of the surrounding surface, I suggest either a die grinder with a cut off wheel or a 4" angle grinder. I recommend using a grade 5 or grade 2 bolt (either will be harder than the aluminum). Next bolt on your "bad" water pump as a guide. Then get a short section of hard brake line just small enough to go inside the factory bolt hole in the water pump. About an inch or so of line should do the trick. Next get a drill bit just small enough to fit inside the piece of hard line. Stick the hard line through the "template hole" on the "bad" waterpump, then stick the bit through and start drilling slowly. The harder piece of steel beside the bolt should reduce the tendency of the bit to walk and the brake line section should help keep the bit from cutting sideways and help keep it straighter. If you really want to get fancy, you can use your JB weld to glue the line to the bit leaving only about 1/8 " or so of the tip of the bit exposed. It will further help reduce "walk". After you have your nice straight hole in the center of the old bolt, start drilling larger sizes until you get your optimum size, then tap or helicoil (or other similar product) as appropriate. Using "left twist" bits may even extract the bolt.

My second question for this build relates to the automatic transmission. If I were to remove the driveshaft that goes back to the rear differential, will the transmission still function normally? If so will I be losing power/energy out the rear of the transmission? Will any fluids leak out with the driveshaft missing? I guess that's more than 1 question.

Here is some info that may be helpful. It is directly related to the exact topic you are asking about. I personally have used fel-pro brand with mixed results. The first set I used was before I started on the message board. Those have held up for 15k miles so far and still good. The second set ended up with an external coolant leak, right after installation. BOTH were ej 2.5d engines. First in a Legacy Lsi auto, second in a Outback auto. Fel-pro does recommend using the copper sealant. It is actually on a small slip of paper included in the packaging of the headgaskets. I found the slip of paper after my last post on the thread. Did not include it because of the whole:horse: issue. Do not use sealant on oem. If I had everything to do over again, I would have used OEM on both cars. 20/20 hindsight. Somehow the thread i originally started got split. There is good information on both. I hope this is helpful to you. And good luck to you! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119154&highlight=hate http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119153&highlight=hate

I am considering the build of a Subaru based Electric vehicle that will operate on both battery power and a gasoline engine. At various stages of the build (if I am able to do it) I am sure I will be coming to the message board for advice and tech questions. I am going to outline the basic theory of how I intend for the car to work then go from there. The car will retain a factory type gasoline engine up front and the gas engine will drive the front wheels. During operation the gasoline engine will be running at all times. The gasoline engine will drive power accessories (power steering, A/C, engine vacuum for power brakes, and alternator). When the vehicle is operating in electric mode, the gasoline engine idles, turning the accessories and contributing at least a small amount of charge to the batteries. The electric drive will connect to the rear differential and propel the car at lower speeds and/or until the battery bank runs out of charge. The electric motor will most likely not be used at highway speeds, just for around town and lower speeds (target upper limit 50 mph). At higher speeds (50mph and higher) the gasoline engine becomes the primary drivetrain in FWD mode. During highway driving the gas engine drives the car and at its higher RPM will contribute more to battery bank charging. In gas only operation, the electric motor will "freewheel" and not be used. To assist in additional charging. I may install additional alternators to the engine. If you have helplful suggestions or words of encouragement please add your comments. My first question relates to ej series rear differentials. Without major modification, will the rear diff/axles hold up to the low speed application described? keep in mind that an electric motor for this app develops maximum torque almost as soon as it starts turning, unlike a gas motor that has to wind up a bit. I am considering using a 97 outback as my project vehicle. If you need more information about the car or build, post it. The car I have to work with is a 2.5d powered automatic Outback. Nearly 230k miles, failed headgasket. Currently has undiagnosed cause torque bind. I already know a lighter car with manual trans would be better to start with, but I am in the exploratory stage of trying to use what I have. If anyone has an impreza with m/t for cheap in not too bad of condition to start with, let me know (needs to be close to VA.)

With price haggling, depends on the seller if they get offended by a much lower offer. If the advertisement does not say "firm" by the price, most are willing to negotiate. If the car still needs a little work you have a bit of leverage for haggling. With regard to the vibration/brake issue, changing out the rotors and converting to ceramic pads will not cost too much if you do the work yourself. Replacing the radiator is not a difficult job on this car either, basically you drain the coolant, disconnect upper and lower hoses, disconnect trans cooler lines, unplug 2 fan wiring plugs take out 2 bolts that hold the upper brackets on and it comes out pretty easy. If you shop around you should be able to get an aftermarket radiator for under $150. I got my last radiator for $125 locally (it was for a 2000, different part#, but that is just an example). Counting your time and parts needed, with car as is, I would say you have $500 worth of negotiation room from the asking price at least. As far as the Jeep goes, it may be a good alternative if you intend to treat it as disposable. Not personally a fan of the grand cherokee. If the Subaru is still in budget after expected and maybe a few yet to be discovered repairs, and you really like the car, you'll probably be happier with it.

Oreiley around here does not scan codes.

I've tried it also, no noticed improvement in fuel mileage. I did wonder though if there would be a noticeable difference with removing the driveshaft and rear axles. A side note to this though, I live on a hill with a gravel driveway, I really didn't like the wheel spin with my outback in FWD only mode. Main reason I didn't go further in experimentation. Still curious though.

Last time I saw that many nuts under the hood of a Subaru, there was an angry squirrel scampering off! Cool beater though. Hmmm, Subaru body with a trooper drivetrain?

Chrysler and Jeep I don't believe were in bed together yet in '85. They were still using 2.5 and 2.8 GM engines back then. Start out by checking for power and ground at the coil. Go from there.

Allrighty, I'll check best I can to see if I can see the back of the head where it joins the block. Best I recall it is fairly obscured by the crossmember though. Short of taking out the pitch stop and unbolting the exhaust and motor mounts, lifting the engine some, is there another trick to being able to get a good look at this to determine if it is actually the head gasket? I know he wants to get the problem fixed as cheaply as possible. Is it a bad idea to just do the one side? How much of a PITA is it do do it still in the car? I have always pulled engines to do the headgaskets, but then again that was on the big head 2.5d engines.

Oil from the headgasket? Haven't seen that before, but my experience is mostly with 2.5d