fiber_tek

Disregard the part about the oil in the antifreeze.... My son wanted to know what it would look like if he added oil to the antifreeze and poured some in it... Ding dong kids!! Anywho, I need to start another post, we have another problem now.

Yay is right! With 239K on this thing I think the thicker oil will fill in the gaps that are caused by driving more than the distance of the moon and back. I didn't fill it up with 30W, just added a quart of it to the 10W30 that was already in it. My slide rule says that it is quiet now so I'm happy! LOL!!! Couldn't be any worse than putting Lucas Oil Stabilizer in it.

95 Legacy Outback, 2.2L, 239,000 miles

We bought it from an older couple that was driving it last fall in a caravan of people and the people behind her saw what looked to them like the car was smoking. They called her on her cell phone to tell her and she noticed that the temp gauge showed hot, so she pulled over and parked it until they could trailer it back to town. They never had it looked at by a mechanic but assumed that it was a stuck thermostat or failed water pump. The oil didn't have any water in it, the radiator didn't have bubbles showing up when it ran after we bought it, and the compression tests for all 4 cylinders were very close to each other. We towed it home after paying $700 and hearing it run for a minute, and it runs really well.

I added a quart of gas station brand 30W oil to the crankcase and the ticking stopped within 5 miles of driving. I tried Marvel's Mystery oil a few months ago, Lucas Oil Stabilizer a few weeks ago, tried changing the oil and filter several times in a row but when I was a quart low I just added a quart of cheapo gas station 30W to the oil and it was gone within 5 miles of driving. Crazy. Thought I would share if anyone else has tried many other remedies to no avail.

My son just bought this car, 95 Legacy Outback 2.2L, and it had overheated. We are in the process of replacing the water pump and timing belt and saw this coolant settle out over the last couple of days. This isn't heavy like oil but it is darker than the rest of the coolant. Would a block testing fluid still be able to test this after it is out of the vehicle? Thanks for the help! I've had a lot of good help on this forum!

Awesome! Thank you guys! I have sent GD a message and contacted fixmysuby.com via e-mail for quotes.

Clutch is thrashed, in need of a replacement ASAP. Still drives OK, but the clicking is getting louder, the shudder getting worse and we will need to make a return 750 mile trip soon.

Burnt exhaust valve. $655 for parts and labor and I don't have to keep throwing parts at it. This summer it gets a new clutch, timing belt, and water pump.....

I changed the oil and found a small piece of blue hard plastic and some white/off white colored gritty looking stuff on the pan that I drained the oil into. Could the blue plastic be part of a valve seal/guide? I am going to change it again, I am trying to get rid of a ridiculous ticking sound, I'm thinking I have a sticky lifter/valve.

I changed the oil and have found what looks like plastic pieces in the drain pan. Valve seals? Some of it looked like blue plastic, like a valve seal, or seat, and some of it looked like white sand.

When I had the P0420 code I put in a new front O2 sensor, OE from Subaru. I don't ever smell fuel. I just had the codes read at Autozone and it has no codes stored. Any way to test for a bad cat, or a trick to do it on the cheap? If I have to get a new cat I will, but man this thing is getting expensive! LOL!

I can see the CEL during the bulb test when I first turn the key on. And it worked when I got the P0420 code a few weeks back. The car will stutter at about 2700RPM when in the last three gears, 3-5. And it only does it when the temp gauge reaches the normal operating range. In the past it clears up when the engine gets ran for about 5-10 miles, but I haven't driven it that far since I started replacing sensors. If I keep it under 2700 RPM in the last 3 gears in won't do it. I didn't put 2 and 2 together at first, but when I would shut the car off it would smell like hot metal. I smell the same thing when following a snow plow that has it's plow down grinding on the asphalt. Well, I smelled that last night after a drive and noticed the cat was glowing.

The car is a 95 Legacy OBW, with a 2.2liter 5MT, 220K miles. I have replaced the CTS, CPS (twice), both O2 sensors (front one is OE), PCV, cleaned the IACV, cleaned the MAF sensor, ran fuel system cleaner, and Seafoam through a few tanks of gas. It has new plugs and wires, though the wires are not OE. I have sprayed the coil with water at night looking for sparklies. I am not getting a check engine light. Is it possible to have codes stored with out a CEL coming on?

Just wondering if I can remove the hose from the air filter to the intake so that I can pour Seafoam straight into the engine. I think I may have a stuck/sticking valve now. I found that I have a glowing cat, and there is a noticeable tick in the engine, coming from the driver's side cylinder bank. This may be causing my stumble/misfire when the engine gets warmed up. All of my sensors have been replaced trying to run down the warm engine stutter and last night found that my cat glows a pretty orange. Any other ideas? I bought the car for $2000 and can't bring myself to taking it to a shop to do a $2000 valve cleaning job. It may not be $2000 but it won't be cheap!

Burned out on this car. Going to a shop or the dealer.

Mine doesn't have an idling problem, just the misfire/stutter when the temp gauge reaches normal operating temperature. And it only does it when the RPM's are at 2700. It will do it above that but not below 2700, and when it gets completely warmed up it stops misfiring/stuttering.

OK, I have changed the fuel filter and another new(different brand) coolant temperature sensor, new cam position sensor, cleaned the IACV, cleaned the MAF sensor, changed the front O2 sensor with a Subaru factory sensor, new plugs and wires, sprayed the coil with water while in the dark, didn't see any sparklies, and I still have the hesitation stutter right when the engine gets to operating temperature. I can make it repeat time after time at 2700 RPM's in any gear. I have a new rear O2 sensor to change out if that doesn't fix the problem then it goes to the, ack!!!, dealer. Why is it we like Subaru's??????

I want to depressurize the fuel lines to change the fuel filter. Just throwing parts at it now.

Just changed the cam position sensor and it still stutters when it gets near operating temperature. Next is the fuel filter, then another new CTS. Does anyone know where the fuse is to stop the fuel pump?

No sparklies. I spent quite a while trying that to see if the coil or wires were leaking electrons. Nothing there. When I changed the plugs and wires the spark plug holes were clean and dry, looked like new in there.

Hmmmmm. Something to think about after I get some other things looked at. It's amazing how much someone will do before they take it to a dealer! Man, I hate dealers!

Just thinking out loud. Is there a set of sensors that the engine relies on until it gets warmed up and then it switches to another set of sensors? I wonder if a sensor is "hanging up" during the switch? Anyways, I am going to try checking the coil for shorts, change the fuel filter, and try another CTS. Too bad the Super Bowl is on or I would do it right now......

The air filter from Walmart, the plugs, wires, PCV, CTS from Autozone. I have sent Seafoam through the intake and used a few bottles of fuel injection cleaner and/or Seafoam in the tank. I have to say that using fuel injection cleaner, and/or Seafoam in the tank adds about 3-6 MPG. The temp gauge can be at operating temperature but I still don't think the whole engine and all the parts and sensors are hot, the misfire/stutter will continue sporadically until the engine has been driven quite a few miles. Now that I think about it this happened when the engine had been driven nearly 100 miles, so it was plenty warm, and the road had a slight, very slight, incline. I will certainly try a fuel filter, those are cheap enough. I just don't want to start throwing parts at it. Where would I find a scan tool? Can you usually rent one of these?