Zoltan

Ok so again thanks for everyones input. If you look at my pics I attached you can see that my front u joint is in the same shape as Numbchux's lol I checked online and my pick pull does have two 2002 H6 Sedans. I took out my receiving end and I will replace that. I am stil a bit unsure of the selector lever on the tranny, but I think the roll pin in is still in (see pic) I moved it around some more and it seems to be in gear as it moves the wheels in opositte directions as well as the output sharft of the tranny. I'm sorry but I do understand what Numbchux is saying about the detent spring. This is my first tranny work and Im not really a quick learner. I do not give up easy though so hopefully I can fix this. What do think about me just putting in a used receiveng end and an console shift assembly. Is there a way to check if the tranny is good? Is is a high probability that the tranny has been damaged? If you look at one the the pics of the receiveing end one of the bands had fallen out. Is this norma ? Or is it an indicator of the fact that it has been damaged by the broken driveshaft or me banging on it to try to get the yoke out. I cant upload even one pic as it says the file is to big. Sorry about that. Not sure how to make a pics a smaller file size.

OK thanks for eveyones input. Since I dont have a slide hammer I will be heading of to pick and pull (one mile away) . I think i will do what idosubaru said..... " Or you may need to replace the receiving end inside the rear extension housing. Luckily that’s not that hard, the housing slides off the back of the trans from under the car, don’t have to remove the trans" So my question is can I take that part out of any 2000 to 2004 Outback or Legacy Automatic or does it have to be an H6 mode My second question is since the front wheels turn and the engine starts am I correct in assuming that the tranny is stuck in nuetral? And to answer Numbchux, I do feel seperate postions when I move the selector lever. I will compare my levers to the ones on an undamaged car at pick and pull. I want to figure this problem out. Car has no rust and 181 000 miles.

So on a a 2001 H6 Outback Wagon Auto, the driveshaft to the rear diff snapped at its front U joint.. This caused it to smack the auto tranny gear selector and broke some white plastic bits inside of it. This made the gear selector all wonky and looks like it was unable to shift into park. I was not driving the car when this happened and have no feedback from the driver. ,I took out the driveshaft without any problems but the yoke is stuck in the tranny. Wont come out, I banged and pryed on it. I removed the entire gear selector assembly and now its just the gear selector cable hanging. The car is on 4 jackstands with all 4 tires in the air. The front tires spin no matter what gear I select with the cable. I have crawled under the tranny and tried moving the lever by hand and it makes no difference. I'm not really sure what is happening? Has me confused. I thought it would be an easy fix. Any ideas?. Oh yeah also if I finally manage to get the yoke out and fix the gear selector problem, does anyone happen to know if the sedan and wagon driveshaft are the same for the 2001 H6 Outbacks? . I have received conflicting info on this. I will be going to my local pick and pull for all parts. Again thanks for taking the time to read this, and any input is greatly appreciated.

Ok thanks for the input it is much apprecitated. The car seemed to run fine for the 20 seconds I ran it to get it into its spot for engine removal. And the timing belt did have most of it's tension on it when I took it off, So I think it will be ok. I will time it crank it over by hand a coiple times and if she seems ok I will put it in the car and do a comp test with the motor. I will reports back in a few days. Working on another projeect for a friend that is more urgent. Again thanks for everyones input.

Ok thanks. I will check it out. Problem also seems to be a bit intermittent. So its a tough one.

Ok, so how do I check for bent valves. Engine is still out of car. I have cut open oil filter and all looks good. I have started to put motor back together. Just about ready to put on timing belt.

Thanks guys, I will cut open filter to double check and then motor back in car. I will report back in a few days.

Something weird happened to me today. Two weeks ago I bought a 2005 Legacy EJ25 NA from someone in Trail bc. It has 181 000km (112 500 miles) and the owner was told by the Subaru Dealer that the bottom end of the motor is gone. I bought the car and took out the motor today. I had run the motor for 20 seconds to move it and it did sound like a bottom end issue. I took out the engine and when I took off the timing belt the lower cogged idler was destroyed, all the little bearings had fallen out and were at the bottom of the timing belt cover. I wonder if this means that the bottom end is fine. Of course I only came to this realization after I took off the cam and crank gears and sensors, intake manifold, clutch, flywheel, block heater, motor mounts and drained the oil, all too get ready to put on a JDM long block EJ20. So I guess my question is could this bad cogged idler been making a similar noise to a bottom end issue and be misdiagnosed by the Dealer. This really has me thinking I should put all the parts back on, and put it back in the car and start is up, but I would love another opinion. Is there any other way to see if the motor is good? Thanks for the help.

So its a 2003 Forester with a NA Ej25 and automatic. I just put in a low milage EJ25 NA motor (60 000 miles) that had new head gaskets installed by the previous owner. I have no way of verifying the true milage of this motor as I just bought it and took the person word for it. I put it in my forester and used the intake from the forester and the motor surges up and down about 400rpm . It does this in park idling, and also under load while driving. I cant see any connections I missed. Any suggestions. Thanks for taking the time to read this.

No Worries. At least the hard lessons get burned into the mind. I got it running nice now, and am so much quicker at timing belts as well. Thanks ocei77. I can also confirm that auto and manual sometimes compatable. On a side not I had to helicoil one of the idler holes as well. Wow thoose Helicoil kits must be the highest markup product at an auto parts store, and no one seems to carry a generic brand. I wonder why?

Yeah I tend to learn things the hard way. The pick and pull does have my model but motor is gone.

So I just put in a different EJ25 in my USDM NA 2003 Forester EJ25 SOHC automatic. . The motor I put in is an EJ25 but I dont know from what car. I just used the long block and swapped intakes. Would not start and showing cam and crank sensor codes. I found out the hard way (6 hours of taking the timing belt on and off) that the cam gear and crank gear is not the same on all EJ25's. Not a fun day. Seems the sensors are the same. I have already scrapped the bad motor. My question is does anyone happen to know if there are only 2 types of cam and crank gears for a USDM EJ25 SOHC. This will make my search at the local pick and pull easier as I just need to make sure it;s not the one I currently have. Thanks for taking the time to read this.

Ok. Understood. I think I will just have the to find a ej25 SOHC short block and put on the heads. That is if they are still ok.

I have a 2006 Outback Auto with an SOHC EJ25 NA (Naturally Asperated) motor with the Active Valve Control. It threw a rod right through the block. I want to buy a JDM SOHC EJ20 NA motor and use the heads (and Intake manifold) from the blown motor. Has anyone done this? Will it work? I checked on Rock auto and the head gaskets seem to be the same from 2000 to 2009 and I seem to have heard people saying all SOHC EJ will swap heads. I guess one of my concerns is what compression ratio I will end up with. I know I will loose 500cc but I dont think that is the end of the world, especially on an AVC car. Than you. for taking the time to read this. and any input is always appreciated.

Makes sense. Thanks

I need to put an new steering rack in my 2002 Outback EJ25. It seems that only a 2000 to 2004 rack from an Outback will work. I have a 2000 Legacy parts car that I can take it from. Can anyone verify if this will work, or is Rock auto correct that I can only use an outback steering rack. I wonder what the difference is.

I was a tooth off on the Timing belt. I cant beleive I did that. Oh well. Thanks for the help everyone!

Thanks, Mike 104, Thats what I thought I just wanted a conformation. Much apprecitated !!!

Thanks for the link. So there it is normal for the new fel pro gasket to not be flush as my picture shows? This worries me a bit.

On my 2004 Impreza EJ25, I took off the plastic intake manifold, and it has some rubber intake gaskets that go right into the intake manifold. (also needs the standard intake manifold gasket that goes on the block. These rubber gaskets that seat in the intake seems to be for 2004 only, according to Rock Auto parts list. Has anyone had any experience with this? I bought some Fel Pro gaskets but they seem to stick out from the manifold. Worries me a bit. On a side note, I called the dealer and they said it only comes with the intake. They do not sell it seperately. Weird. I wonder if I should just leave the old ones in. They seem ok. Not sure what to do. Any advise would be appreciated. Thank you.

Thanks for everyones input. I noticed that it will only start if I hold the pedal to the floor, and this takes about 5 to 8 seconds of cranking. I have a local Subaru guru who has done this swap many times come out and take a look. He is very busy so I may have to wait a while. Is it possible to swap crank and cam sensors? Are they the same size and connectors?

Ok, Thanks , that what I was thinking as well. I forgot to mention that when I first ran it I noticed that one of the main wiring harness (top grey one) was not fully pushed in. It just needed a push to get that final click. I then disconnected battery to try to "reset" the computer. I hope I dod not damage anything by running car with that wiring harness not fully plugged in. I double checked and all the grounds are clean and connected. I will have to play around with it I guess. THanks for your input, it is always apprectiated.

I have a 2003 USDM Legacy GT sedan Automatic. with a bad EJ25 non turbo. I swapped to with an EJ203 non turbo JDM . I changed over the intake manifold, and both cam gears, including the one and only cam sensor , also the crank gear and sensor, coolant crossover pipe (has a sensor in it). EGR was easy swap because the JDM also had one. I went to start it and it runs very rough, and starts hard, It has the following 3 codes, P0118 Engine Coolant Temp Sensor Curcuit High, P0341 Cam Sensor A. and P0032 Heater Control Circuit. I triple checked everything and I did not miss any connections, or grounds. I used a Gates Timing belt kit and oredered it as per the 2003 USDM. I have done a few timing belts before on subarus. This does not seem like a timing belt issue to me but I am a bit stumped. Thanks for taking the time to read this.

Ok. Thanks for the input!

I should have specified that I am looking at a EJ203 non turbo JDM from Japan Direct in Ontario Canada.