Zoltan

I had a feeling it would not work. OK thanks

I was thinking about put a JDM EJ20 SOHC non turbo motor into a 1998 Outback that has the factory USDM EJ25 DOCH motor. Can I swap the intake manifolds, like you could, on a USDM SOHC EJ25? If so then has anyone done this and what (if any) are the differences in the two swaps? Thank you for taking the time to read this.

Thanks everyone. I swapped the crankshaft, and both camshaft gears, and the one cam shaft sensor. Have not yet put it in the car, but will soon.

Thanks. I was told by Japan Direct that this is a 2004 Legacy JDM EJ20 non turbo and that it has an EGR valve. I will have to double check the crank'cam sprockets and sensors. I wonder if I will be able to tell without taking them off?

I have a 2003 USDM Legacy GT sedan Automatic. with a bad EJ25 non turbo. I have ordered an EJ20 non turbo JDM engine to replace it. I oreder it from Japan Direct in Ontario Canada. They said that all I would need to change in the intake manifold, and that the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets would be the same as for the ej25. Does anyone have anything to comment or add to this as I have never done and engine swap before. I have worked on my subaru's for years and watched a few video;s just wanted to see if I may have overlooked a common problem. Thanks for taking the time to read this.

I timed it. Under 7 seconds.

I have a 2005 Outback manual with the EJ25 non turbo. I changed both steering knuckles for used units and now have an ERSS code come up, and car seems to be in a fail safe mode with both fans coming on all the time. The reason for the knuckle change was bad ball joint in a rusty knuckle that would not come out. The ERSS, stands for Error Speed Sensor. Must be from one of the abs sensors in the knuckle. My code reader says P0500 but does not tell me which one. I found the following procedure that says it will unlock more codes that will help tell me which abs sensor is bad. I followed the procedure to the letter 4 different times and it did not work for me. If someone can point me in the right direction or have any ideas, I dont want to start changing parts that may be good. Starting condition: key off, headlight switch off. Steps 1 through 7 must be performed within 10 seconds. 1. Turn key to ON position. This is the normal running position, the click just before starting, when all the lights on the dash come on, but before you twist to START. Don't start the engine! 2. Within 3 seconds, turn the headlight switch ON. 3. Press the Trip/Odometer button 4 times. 4. Turn the headlight switch OFF. 5. Press the Trip/Odometer button 4 times. 6. Turn headlight swtich ON. 7. Press Trip/Odometer button 4 times. At this point, the DTC display will begin. 8. Turn headlight switch OFF. Not necessary for the procedure, but your display may be dimmed and hard to read in bright sunlight. Besides, why drain the battery? The DTCs for each module will display in order: ECM, TCM, ABSCM/VDCCM. Press the Trip/Odometer button to cycle between modules. The FSM states that the display will cycle between modules automatically every three seconds if the button is not pushed, but that did not happen in my car - I had to push the button to cycle the display. For each module, there are three display states: - Receiving DTC from module (blinking "P" or "C") - DTC detected & displayed ("P" or "C" followed by 4 digits) - No DTC found ("P" or "C" followed by "----"

Ok so I replace the factory clamps with worm gear clamps at 3 spots bleed the system with 40 slow cranks of the wheel and all seems to be good. Although I have not driven car as it is still up on jack stands due to a brake issue. Thanks again for the advice!

Thanks for the pictures. I have been busy and not had a chance to work on car. My rusty old 92 Legacy is still running like a swiss watch watch. That thing NEVER gives me any problems but its soooo rusty.

Thanks for the tips. I will check for air being sucked into the system.

I just bought a 05 Outback, that has a few problems. It has a new steering rack that seems to vibrate the steering wheel at startup. The car is up on jackstands as a brakeline also needs replacing. What would make a new steering rack vibrate like that on startup? I will drain the fluid and bleed the system (with Dexron Auto tranny fluid, but I do not know what the problem could be. Any ideas from anybody? Thanks for taking the time I really do appreciate it.

It was the front 02 sensor! Thanks for everyone's time and input!

I checked for oil in all 4 spark plug holes. None. I changed IACV, did not help. I changed throttle postition sensor. Nothing. I am sure glad pick n pull is a mile from my house. lol Ok I guess I will order a new front O2 sensor from rock auto. I was told this may be the problem. I am in Canada and the shiiping will take 10 days. I will report back! Thanks again for everyones help

Ok. I check my plug boots for oil, and check throttle body and IACV. I will report back tommor ow. Thanks again for your help!

Thanks for everyones input. I will check for a vacum leak. I do have a question about the timing? Why would it run better in warmer outside air temp than in the cold. Would I be correct to assume that this point more to a sensor problem.

I have a 2001 Legacy EJ25 automatic with low speed hesitation problems. Car is new to me and has 130 000 miles on it. It does look like it was in a bit of a fender bender and had a front fender replaced. I looked underneath the car and it does not look major. Car was giving codes for 3 missfiring cylinders. I changed igintion coil, new NGK plugs and wires. Codes are now gone. Its better, but hesiitation at low speeds is still there, sometimes it will make a poping noise once or twice (backfire I think). It was cold this morning (40) and she stalled out for the first time, so the cold does seem to make it worse. I have searched a around and some say to change the front O2 sensor even though no codes and some say to check grounds. I am checking the grounds but I just want to know if anyone else has any additional experience or thoughts on this? If someone can tell me which grounds to check that would also be a help. Electrical work is not my strong point but I guess I will learn! Thank you for your time , it is much appreciated. I

Understood. Thanks a bunch

Thanks, I checked out car-part.com but got some non consistent answers when cross referencing. I was hoping someone on this site could let me know what their actual experience is. I also called up a couple of dealers and got different answers. Specifically I would like to swap an 04 Impreza TS knuckle for an 01 legacy, and then a 92 legacy for an 01 legacy. The 92 legacy does not have abs so no worries there.

I need to replace the front hub/knuckle on my 04 Impreza(it has abs). Does anyone know what years and models I can get it from? Also a link to a good write up (for a novice) on how to do this without power tools would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your time.

Thanks for the tips guys, I will try the smaller punch from the other side!

Its an 04 Impreza with a manual. Went to change front CV axles. First one went fine. I punched out roll pin from the unbeveled hole side of the DOJ housing as per write up I found. The second CV axle has the pin sticking out about 20% of its length on the beveled side so I went to the unbeveled side to knock it out. It did not come out and the part sticking out snapped off. I soaked the stuck pin for and hour and then went back to work from the unbeveled side again with a 5 lb hammer. I have been using the correct punch, and I cant get it out. I think the common mistake of installing it half a tooth off was made. My questions are 1) SHould I keep trying to hit it harder from only the unbeveled side (as opposed to swicthing sides) and 2) I am afraid if I keep hitting it I will damage the tranny? or should I just whale away. Any suggestions. I have done a this job a few times and never had this problem. Thanks.

I agree that the tps is the most likely culprit, since I put one on from an EJ25. I am not really sure I followed the correct procedure though. What is the correct procedure to install a TPS sensor ??. I also called my local dealer, and they told me that the the EJ22 tps sensor is specific to the ej22 and ones taken from a EJ25 will not work. I go on ebay and rock auto and they say different. The dealer said the part number is 22633AA151 or 2263AA15B. Anyone have any experience with this. I went to my local pick and pull and pull and could not find one from a ej22. I would go ahead and order the 22633AA151 from ebay but am worried it will not work and I cant afford the one from the dealer. Thanks for taking the time to read this any help is always much appreciated.

Thanks guys much appreciated, I will try the suggestions and let everyone know how it went.

I sprayed starter fluid. It kept running and then I put my foot on the gas and held it at a high Rpm for 2 minutes, and the engine ran. When I let go of the gas she stumbles and stalls. I think the fuel pump is good, and voltage at battery is good (new battery). Also still no codes. Checked all vacum lines again, looked good. I dont know how to check for good grounds. Is it possible the timing belt skipped a few teeth? I have done a couple of timing belt jobs and never had an issue. This has me stumped.

Thanks for the ideas. I will try them out and get back.