
Zoltan
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I have a 99 Legacy with the EJ22, auto 180 000 miles. I just got bought the car real cheap because the water pump leaked. I changed the water pump and timing belt and idlers. I also had to change the throttle postion sensor (used one from pick pull) because I broke it with a large prybar holding the flywheel when I took off the crankshaft pulley. So after the timing belt job the motor ran great for about 20 min, while I slowly refiled the the rad. Now for some reason when I start the engine, it it only idles for 5 seconds and then dies. It did throw a 1507 idle control code at first buy not any more. Any ideas on what to check first? I wonder why I am not getting any codes at all on my scanner? Seems weird that it would run fine for 20 min and then not! I feel it should be related to something I did, but I triple checked all vacum lines and without any codes I am lost? I do have a 98 ej22 auto parts carts handy. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks
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I have a 2001 Legacy that idles rough when started, and then the idle will smooth out when full temp is reached, but when you drive it it still hesitates a bit on aceleration. The OBD says I have a misfire on 3 cylinders. Should I just change the ignition coil? Can I test the coil first to see if it bad? Thanks for your help it is always much appreciated.
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I have a 98 and a 99 Legacy both with the EJ22, I mixed up the parts from both and had a hell of a time trying to put the 98 timing belt on the 99. I now know that 90-98 2.2 and 1.8 used the same belt with 211 teeth.99-up SOHC 2.5 used a longer belt IIRC. with 223 teeth. SInce I mixed up all the idlers, and the tensioer I am now wondering if I can mix and match them? Thanks again for everyones help, it is much appreciated.
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Does anyone have any experience and or recomendation on an inexpensive timing belt kit for a 1999 ej22 and a 1998 DOCH EJ25. I am not in a rush as the cars are not my daily drivers. They are older cars and I do not want to spend the money on factory subaru parts, other than the water pump gasket and maybe the cam seals. I would just like to know if anyone knows of a kit that is inexpensive but seems to be good value. There seems so may to choose from on ebay, etc. Thanks for your time it is much appreciated.
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I just bought a 99 Leg with a EJ22. Previous owner changed timing belt and water pump recently. Water pump leaks at the gasket. Is it possible to change the water pump without removing the timing belt. Has anyone ever tried to clamp down tiiming belt while removing tensioner and the idler that blocks the water pump? Thanks,.
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I need a coil pack and I have a 98 Impreza with an EJ22, does anyone happen to know what years of the EJ22 and the EJ25 would work for me. 90-96 ej22e coils 93-96 ej18 and 96/97 ej25d coils are all different than mine, but I dont know about the other years. I am hoping that the EJ25 from 98 to ? will work as this would be the most common at the pick pull I am going to, here in Kelowna. Thanks a bunch in advance!
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Stock 1990 legacy ls full load awd sedan, automatic with 220 000km has a CEL code of 33. Looked it up and it up and it says Vehicle speed sensor. I did some research and I am a bit confused. Does this CEL 33 mean the sensor at the tranny end of the speedo cable? Is this the only Vehicle Speed Sensor for the car? Some things I read imply it has more than one, but if it does how do I know which one is bad? My tachometer only works intermitently and the their is a loud screeching noise coming from behind the speedometer in the winter when it's cold outside. Screeching noise goes away when car interior warms up, but it it is still barely audilbel if you listen carefully, sounds like plastic gear noise I think. Not sure this is related but thought I would mention it. I am not sure if its the speedo cable that needs to be replaced to stop the screeching or is it the part it plugs into on the circuit board on the back of the speedo? Any way to diagnose this? Car seems to have bad pick up, ok around town but I was on the highway and floored it once, ran rough and almost stalled out. Thanks for taking the time to read this, I am a diehard Subaru fan, car is mint with no rust and I want to drive it another 10 to 15 years. Any advise or past experience would be appreciated.
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92 Loyale Heat Soak Hard Start
Zoltan replied to Zoltan's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Seems the problem was the TBI slowly leaking fuel after it was warmed up and flooding engine. -
92 Loyale Heat Soak Hard Start
Zoltan replied to Zoltan's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I changed CTS sensor did not help. I put a thick ground wire from the ignition coli bracket to the neg on the battery. Still no change. Since the car starts fine when hot for the first 10 to 20 min, but starts hard after 30 to 40 min heat soaking, I am assuming it may be a fuel problem. Its SPFI and I pulled the boot off the top of the throttle body after I turned off engine to see if fuel is leaking slowly and flooding it out over 30 to 40 min. I cant see it leaking, but I seem to have convinced myself it is a flooding problem. Is their another way for me to check if the car is getting flooded? Appreciate the help! -
92 Loyale Heat Soak Hard Start
Zoltan replied to Zoltan's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I checked the ECU codes and 34 "EGR" comes up. Does anyone here think that this may be causing my problem? , or is it just unrelated. Car is a 92 Loyale SPFI non turbo Auto FWD and has only 110 000 miles, engine runs fine other than above mentioned problem. -
92 Loyale Heat Soak Hard Start
Zoltan replied to Zoltan's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
It's a SPFI, I unplugged Coolant Temp Sensor (Green plug) during the hot start problem and the problem did not go away. The next day with the engine fully cooled down and the CTS still unplugged I went to start car and it started and died right away. I am thus assuming CTS is working ok? or am I making and incorrect assumption? Thanks for taking the time to help, it is much appreciated! -
Car is stock and starts fine when cold, and also starts fine when fully warmed, but only after siting for a few minutes after being fully warmed up. When fully warmed and engine siting for around 20 to 30 min she does not start easy. She will start after 2 minutes of cranking with the pedal to the floor and then she will run ok. I had a spare MAF,and replaced it. That did not change anything. Thanks for taking the time to read this and will greatly appreciate any help.
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Changed CTS, cleared codes. CEL gone,car starts great!! Was thinking of changing head gaskets, but car will be scraped in April, not sure how bad it was over heated, and it's not that hard around here to find low milagae first gen Legacy's for dirt cheap. They very rarely seem to have a head gaasket issues. I'm also kinda interested in how long I can nurse this car. Thanks again heartless and nipper great advice!!!
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Thanks for the help. I will change CTS. Car spent 10 years out east and is very rusty. Also forgot to mention it seems to have developed a small HG leak after I lent car to my brother for 4 months. He was returning it to me on a 400 mile trip and it slightly over heated on a 6000 ft mountain pass ( He drove it much harder than I do, 80 mph). It boiled over he said it didn't over heat to bad. IT drives fine and does not over heat when I just putter around town, does blow bubbles in the over flow tank though. I just want one more winter out of it, maybe 2000v miles. It is my sacrificial salt car. I own 3 other 1st gen legacy's. My wife and I each have a rust free summer one, and then our rusty winter ones. I Love my Subaru's, neighbours used to think I was crazy, now they drive subaru's. My entire Family does, 12 cars or so. Anyway not driving problem car currently, will not have a chance to work on it for a few days. Will post the solution. Thanks again for taking the time to help.