Lachlan

Thanks! A puddle of coolant, and no fires!

Upon removing my EA81 intake manifold, the crossover pipe managed to donate its contents to the cylinders. What's the best way to dry them out without pulling the whole thing apart?

Thanks, I may need a rod (found one slightly bent), but it's the case I really need, since no one around here will machine it for me. Ideally I'd like to find an EJ81 pushrod shorty; but sans that, I'm going to have to go pull something from the junk yard and make it fit.

Well, poop again. Called about half a dozen machine/engine shops in the local area and nobody wants to work on an EA81. Anyone in Albuquerque know a shop that will do it?

Mine is a rust bucket that wasn't worth the $900 I paid for it, so I'm not worried about value.

Is there any reason I should need to remove the rocker arm in order to remove the whole head?

But aren't all ejs ohc? I don't think those will fit in the 70s brat frame. Perhaps some research is in order, but I need to tear down the shorty to see the damage.

Yes, it was running well, but is there a source for rebuild parts anymore?

Poop. May have spun a bearing in the 81 Brat due to oil starvation. If I did, is it worth it to tear up the engine and fix, or should I just source a new one at the pick n pull? If I replace, I want to keep the simpleness of the non-ECU, weber-carbbed engine. My local one has these to offer, no idea the condition: 83 GL (EA81, simple swapout, right?) 84 GL x2 (EA81 again) 88 GL x2 (EA82 maybe? Would that fit in a gen1 brat body?) Opinions welcomed.

Does anyone have a working one that could post a photo of what it's supposed to look like?

Thank you, Sir. Your silver coinage will be mailed to you shortly!

Anyone know what this is? It came out of the heater core assembly, behind the fan. It's wired to the fan speed control pot. Thermistor? Evil slinky conspiracy? 100 internet points to the knowledgeable lady or gentleman who enlightens me!

So you're saying it's possible to tune the carb so all throttle positions yield at or near 14.7?

Yes, but if you set idle to 14.7 then you go pig-rich when you cruise.

I'm learning the ins and outs of tuning a weber carb. Still. I have a wide-band A/F meter, and I'm trying to figure out exactly what ratio I should be looking for for lean-best idle. I figure tuning for 17.0+ will be the most economical, but that tends to be a little rough Idle. Is there a 'perfect' ratio I'm looking for? I assume it's supposed to be on the lean side, right?

The inside has the 6/4 bearing pattern, which looks like both the NRG and Rapfix. The color makes me think not NRG, though, as those seem to be more chromey. It does fit perfectly into the NRG stalk though.

Thanks to both!

Does anyone know what bulb will fit the early brat parking light? The turn signal just below seems to be an 1156. The parking light has a similar base; however, if you use an 1156 you can't put the lens over it because the bulb protrudes too far.

I bought a used momo steering wheel on ebay and it came with this quick release. Well, half of a quick release. I need to figure out who makes it so I can get the other half.

Last communication I got from him was he was still looking for shipping boxes.

Good to know, thanks.

I have a Weber 32/36 mounted to my 81 Brat (EA81) with a redline kit (K730M). I noticed that, depending on which way I mount the adapter plate, I block either part of the primary or part of the secondary throttle. Which is the better way to mount it?

I'm tearing the wiring apart in my 81 Brat to find the source of one or two electrical gremlins. The one I'm tracking down now is lighting related. That is, they don't come on. I test a ground wire near the head lights, and when they're off, it's grounded, but when I turn them on, the ground wire goes to 12V. I pull out the bulb, but leave the light switch on, and it goes grounded again. Plug in the bulb, the ground wire goes to 12V. I tried a couple different bulbs with the same results. Any ideas what might be causing that? Lachlan Edit: SAt to think a while, and realized the cause was science. No ground = no current = no voltage drop. On to my next mysterious problem!

Todd, I'm a little concerned that he only takes check or money order, rather than paypal. Can you vouch for this guy?

Is this for real? I need to throw money at someone.