Lachlan

and sold.

1981 Subaru Brat GL for sale in Albuquerque, NM. It's been a project, and there's still more to do. I'm moving, and can't take it with me. It starts, runs, and I've used it as a daily driver this past year. I've slowly been working on cutting out rust spots and welding in new metal. Got most of it from the cab forward and the rear wheel wells. There's still some on the outside that will need attention eventually. Has the 1.8 liter H4 engine with a Weber carb and custom "H" exhaust. Engine actually runs pretty sweet, although it needs a carb tweak from season to season. I put in a Corbeau race seat and detachable momo steering wheel. Also has the factory jump seats and seat belts, light bar, and driving lights, and a subaru bull bar off an outback. Full size spare fits under the hood. Great little run-about or fun for rally-cross.

You may need to buy various jet sizes to get it where you want it, but even out of the box it's so much better than the hitachi.

For 1st Gen Brat, I'm looking for the rear bumpstops and bushings for the rear diff support.

Bars and uprights are aluminum. Only the attachment pieces at the bottom are steel. That's what I welded.

It's in front of them a little, but I don't think it's a deal killer. Could be aftermarket, but the way it was hooked up to that 84 wagon it looked purpose-built.

Could never get my hands on the '70s style tube bull bar. I found this newer-style bar on an 84 wagon and welded it up to the ol' brat:

I found a 78 hatchback with good bumpers at the pick n pull. It's chrome, but has the extra 'teeth' on the front, and piston supports. Would these fit on my 81 Brat, which has a smooth bumper and rigid supports?

Do you have a pic or a diagram? I've been looking all up under there and haven't found any bolts visible on the centerline.

I've noticed I can adjust the ride height on via the front struts by about an inch, but I can't identify a similar adjustment in the rear. Is there one hiding under there somewhere?

Has anyone found a nice off-road tire for the stock steelies? I like the old-school look of the steelies, but I can't find but about one lame tire on all of tire rack that is a 13"er.

Made my light bar 32% more useful this week, as it can now actually hold lights:

I'd like to put a retractable 4-pt harness in the Brat, but from what I hear there's a specific angle at which you're supposed to attach the back of your harness, and straight down isn't it. Has anyone successfully and safely installed a harness in a Brat?

I have a non-tach one if you still need.

Email sent, thanks.

I have an 81 Brat that didn't come with a/c. A while ago I saw a 'complete' a/c system on ebay for these older cars, but it's gone now. Anyone know where to get something like that? I could take a gamble at the pick-n-pay, but most of the cars are mid-80's at the oldest.

So clearly I haven't pursued adapting a pair of camber plates. The real issue is the horrendous positive camber these little trucks sport that make going around corners a questionable affair. What other ways are there to negative-out the camber? Any substitute suspension arms that might do it?

Anyone know the pitch on the steering nut for an 81 Brat? I measured it as M12x1.25, but a nut of that size didn't fit.

They look good so far, but I'll withhold full judgment until I see how well they line up. No complaints so far, though.

D'oh. That's it. For some reason, I thought that wasn't possible.

What might cause that? I got a long block from the pick n pay, looked fairly clean under the valve covers. It's OHV, so I'd imagine it's pretty hard to 'skip teeth' like an OHC with a timing belt.

Got mine last friday. $80 for the fenders and $75 greyhound package express from Pennsylvania to Albuquerque. Came packed in a bike box. No damage.

You crank your engine and, instead of starting, it pops the air filter cover off?

1981 ea81. Very few electronics, no ecu. Disty has the module inside.

Investigating why I'm not getting spark out of the coil. While investigating, I've found that, while the screws that hold the ignition module down are grounded, the ground post on it is not (the other post is getting +12V though). Should it be grounded, or does it float until told?