RapidElastic

Mine are there also the newer models had them in the engine compartment. The green connectors will put it in test mode when connected and the white connectors clear the codes. They shouldn't be connected all the time though just when your trying to diagnose problems. Maybe that's why it keeps coming up? I believe to erase codes you connect the white connectors while the vehicle is off and then put the ignition on. The test connectors should be disconnected. If you need more info ill look in my book I'm going by memory.

I did cam seals, oil pump, and valve covers all at once I would recommend it. Stopped my clicking and no longer leaks oil. And I did timing belts as well while it was all apart.

Good job man! Looks like it will take on anything!

Neutral safety switches exist on manuals. Its on the clutch pedal and makes sure you have the clutch pressed down before you start the car. Almost all manuals have it, except Volkswagens from what i know.

How cold are we talking here? My car did this once but it was around -25 celcius. After it warmed up it was fine. And there should be two white connectors that go together and those will clear the codes. I'm not sure of the exact procedure and my book isn't with me. You may have to have the test connectors and the memory clear connectors at the same time I can't remember. My memory clear connectors are in the engine bay by the fuel filter (93 loyale EA82).

That's the best quality I'm allowed to upload and it shows all you need. The picture is right where you drew the yellow box on the manifold. I cant take another picture cause its in auto class.

There's your picture does this work? As far as my brakes I pumped them and saw its pouring out of my rear passenger drum. Hopefully ill pull it apart today and take a look and get it fixed by tomorrow.

I can do that for you tomorrow. Since I lost all my brake fluid I'm not gonna be driving very far

Finally put a muffler on my car. After 3 months or so with it straight piped it sounds very very stealthy.

Yes it can run but the effects on performance can be drastic.

This is difficult to understand maybe you should reword it. I put a new EGR vacuum solenoid on my car which is what you have pictured and it connected right to the EGR valve. Hope that helps, mines FI though.

Replacing the alternator is easy. Its right on top of the engine and easy to get at. I got a new one for $120 CAD after the core return. Or you could try fixing the alternator. Machine the stator, new brushes and new regulator but the parts are hard to find generally.

I got my crankcase pulley off by using a impact socket on a breaker bar and resting the bar on solid piece in the engine compartment then went and turned the key just for a split second. Starter motor loosened it good.

I got my cam seals for 6 bucks each right from the subie dealer in town.

My EGR solenoid went and my fuel consumption was garbage! I pulled another one off at the autowrecker and replaced it helped lots. Ide just replace it if you can find one easily.