czny

Go back to ACE and get an metric allen bolt + nylon lock nut sized to fit.

If you're lucky, there may still be a timing decal on the underside of the hood, driver's side nearer the front lip of the hood, spelling out the timing & the green connectors. My 87 GL has a lot of blow by oil getting into the IACV on the throttle body. It got stuck at 1900 RPM one day until I sprayed some wd-40 down into the valve to dissolve the excess oil. After that, it would come down to about 1100 then drop down to about 7-800 slowly, which is what it's supposed to do. My guess is that it hydro-locked with oil. I'm thinking of putting some chore girl pad in each L&R valve cover breather hose to cut down on oil mist getting into the the TBI intake boot.

And, most of the old threads here on USMB lost all pics thru fotosuckit or changes in forum hosting service changes. PM Crazyeights to see if he still has some pics & such for 5 MT d/r transmissions.

Here's some reading for you before you dive in to that "spare". https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/121582-transmission-reseal-new-bearing-with-pics/ https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/95638-411-awd-dual-range-in-legacy/page/2/ https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/100318-ej-dr-tranny-s-from-nz-ive-read-many-recent-threads-want-newest-info/ Can't recall which long gone member had a complete tear down description, but I think el freddo might know. Gloyale did some, el freddo did some.

Sounds like one of the forks is out of place and gear synchro cogs are hitting as you turn it. Time to open it up, unless you can return it still.

92.50 mm, either 2.0mm 1st & 2nd or 1.2mm 1st & 2nd rings, depending on engine/piston. https://hastingspistonrings.com/catalogs-cross-reference/ https://hastingspistonrings.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/asian-catalog-americas.pdf https://www.ebay.com/itm/187161728886?fits=Make%3ASubaru&_skw=subaru+92.50+mm+EA81+piston+rings&itmmeta=01JTH36YHWEVD0QXGV0YXQQ7AS&hash=item2b93b55776:g:bS0AAeSw-8loBnk~&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ds6hQQs5C0Aavw5a6pUKCItZ201Ll3mNujqNg%2FsDD%2FLkBJ7WFKlwnHz4MCZCGppX%2FDPCDO2CTW%2Fvzc4HYFSx3w9SyT4GZCR6X%2BQAOqWhGGlpjyupNBUSt2bDQiHwVVQrWC8j3PomzHL%2FC3cd7lS0b6r1WQN%2BzytOPdLZcBBAbGI79artDEqCIFjPgS20GvkOHTQBPMLEpKJg8wrV0ut6%2FgSomiZDBl%2BETktnc2BjmLNBg0pz0GA6%2FPT4uRkWL1yd3ExzklURJ2K4Rak9MQpInT|tkp%3ABk9SR47pm6PUZQ Contact seller importengineparts on fleabay for NPR rings. YMMV

Superpro bushings

The heater & a/c control has 2 screws under the buttons - one under top button, one under bottom button. You can reach the button rims with your nails to pull them off if ones next to them are pushed in/on. Be gentle with the screws when putting it all back together. The plasticizer in these plastic parts has cooked off with age making things brittle. Merry Christmas!

Been a really long time since this thread was updated. Had my share of local trouble with attempted theft and damages. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/186359-beware-of-mevotech-parts/ Decided to go with KYB 2wd struts(new old stock) and Lesjofors '94 Kia Sephia front springs(4044208 on RA), new KYB strut mounts(SM5364, IF you can find 'em). New KYB 4wd rear shocks with better looking, less rusty springs. Rear cross member with gaps in mounts filled with urethane. Superpro front strut rod bushings(SPF2534K). Superpro new moustache bar bushings(same as rear diff mount bushing). Rides much better without all the bounciness on highways. Combination of Sachs 4wd struts with those Lesjofors springs, they're about .040" thicker than stock, will get you another inch of lift in front. Combination of those and 2wd rear KYB shocks + stock rear springs OR 4wd rear shocks with Honda Accord front springs, Lesjofors 4135713, may ride even front to rear. Just a suggestion. KYB 2wd strut, Lesjofors spring, KYB mount, SJR 4" lift. For $86 shipped this McPherson spring compressor was worth it. MUCH safer to work around than those hook compressors that tend to slip and always at the wrong time. spring compressor Be sure to lube the threads and round part with gear oil.

My guess for that crack is that when the centers were formed, the stress from the deep backspacing puts extra leverage on the center. The original Scorpion wheels have spokes welded to the wheel centerline. The copies are built like a bowl with the edge of the bowl on the wheel centerline. The large "D" shaped holes add twisting around the center as the car rolls. Bad design. That is why I keep pushing the notion to get used 6 lug wheels and drill 2 holes for 4 bolt 4 x 140 pattern. 6 x 5.5 inch pattern is 6 x 139.7mm which is close enough. You'd be money ahead. el_freddo can't do this in Australia. We can if its done right. The new holes must be countersunk to match the lug nuts.

Another option for steel wheels to drill for 4 bolt pattern are 1991 Toyota 4X4 PU which have a flat center. Search the self serve yards in Spokane. then you could go to 205/70R15 radial M+S tires. Any flat center 6 lug with large center hole will do it for you too. Mazda B2200, Ford Courier, Chevy LUV, New 91 Toyota 4x4 wheels

You could have it TIG welded after blasting off the powder coat, BUT, to be sure there aren't any stress risers after welding it should be shotpeened., That crack has been working for quite awhile. Ask Bennie to put the word out for wheels, maybe(?)

Have that scorpion wheel abrasive blasted to remove powder coat, then have all weld beads TIG welded. If there's one crack there could be more developing. Then new powder coat, perhaps all of them(?)

Always wondered if it was that Subaru production kept using the drum brake wheels until ea81 production really got going by mounting only the solid rotor front disc brakes. In other words, lesser curve spokes until advent of vented front discs then sharper curve spokes. Do a search for the 6 lug conversions on Goggle OP. You might find more there in early discussions.