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AK_Kev_007

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Posts posted by AK_Kev_007

  1. It's a wagon 5 speed with manual shift for AWD. EA82 vin 4

     

    Part one:

    It's time to change out my clutch on my 85' GL. When I look up the parts on siteLogo_orlyTest.gif website it asks me if I have a clutch diameter of 7 or 8 inches. Also it asks if it's a 21 or 24 spline (looking up clutch sets). I'll probably go with OEM parts cause I've been having bad luck with after market clutch cables(broke 4 of them in 6 months). What should I set the clutch diameter and splines at?

     

     

    Part two:

    It's wintertime here in AK. Also known as drifting time! I noticed the engine starts to load up with oil in the cylinders between 3k-4k RPM's. I lose power and she starts to smoke real bad. (It sucks when I'm showing off for the new girlfriend by doing a continuous circle) The car will also load up on the highway in 5th around the same RPM's. Any ideas of what I can do to stop this?

  2. My grandfather picked up a 1990 Loyale about a year ago. It has a turbo but I'm not sure what engine class it is. But when we go to put coolant in the radiator it litterally runs out the tail pipe with out even cranking the engine over. He said he had it running once but it didn't run very well. Any ideas of why the coolant is coming out the tail pipe?

  3. Got this gem off of CL for $350 :banana: EA82. It's an auto :-\ but that will be good for the wife. It runs, not perfect but it made a 20 mile trip without incident. The exhaust studs need to be replaced and the power steering seems to leak. The idle was really low until I went to park it the last time. Push button 4x4. Rear washer fluid pump isn't turning on. The dash clock isn't showing anything. The air conditioning hoses have been removed but the compressor is still in loop. zzz It has a fan off the water pump instead of electric fans. Tires are shot but it came with studded winter tires that are in great shape, just need to be de-studded. The carpet is going to be ripped out. Stained beyond repair. And last the clearcoat on the roof is peeling. It still runs and drives!! :headbang:

     

    CL Pic

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    F7C4C12D-orig.jpg

     

    So the 85' i going to modded into a trailing rig and the 87' is going to be the around town/ delivery car.

  4. I take it you don't have state inspection in Alaska?

     

    Not really. There is an emisions test in select cities/towns. My IM test is good until Jan 2013. Hopfully the IM testing will be done and over with by the end of this year. Atleast for Anchorage.

  5. The only real bad rust spots I have is a football(soccer in some countrys) sized hole in the driver foot board. The driver seat is being held by 2.5 bolts so with the recline all the way up I still do the gangster lean. And both of the rear quarter panels where the jack and other junk went had to be seal off with foam. My sub frame is in good shape and she runs like a champ. 80 mph down Minnesota Highway all day long. I did however find an 87' wagon for $250 but I gotta wait for the cash to get it, rent sucks!

  6. I'll start will bigger rims and tires. The suspension is already maxxed out. But the car does have cancer. Not from salt though more from sitting outside all winter long. Sucks but she was free :banana:

  7. Great job so far. I went the cheap rattle can route on my car. Flat black it kinda hard to get right. But I used the cheap stuff as a base coat and used the more expensive Krylon to finish her off. 25-30 cans I think, I was pretty messed up after I was done cause I did the painting in my parents garage with some ventilation. All those cheap masks do is keep you from getting black boogers.

    One whole day of sanding with my wife. Then cleaning with glass cleaner and then painting.

     

    I never took any before and I need to find the during pics but I have plenty of after pics. I am a firm believer in prep. The better the surface is prepped the better the finished product is going to be.

     

    As for changing the doors I found doing my rear doors and my back hatch by myself switching them off of a 90' loyale. But I guess if you can't hold the door up with one hand and put the bolt in with the other you might not be able to find it as easy as I did.:grin:

     

    As forthe electrical let me know if you need any help. I know Alaska is pretty far away but I can explain most anything involving 12 volt.:banana:

  8. Gotta Hear That! ...

    I'll Like to Hear that Boxer like That, but let me Ask you Something: Old Mechanics in my Country keeps Telling that a Straight exhaust Pipe makes near to Zero Resistance to the Exhaust Valves and could damage 'em... Maybe is Something to Consider.

    Kind Regards.

     

     

    Well my cat was getting clogged and the lid off of the first muffler rusted and opened up right below the center console, which was loud as hell. So I just took the 2" pipe and fixed both problems seeing as I don't want to spend the money on a new muffler. I am however going to stick a cherry bomb on it but I just haven't had the time.

  9. The only wires I could find on http://the12volt.com

    that match your description is for the starter. But those look pretty small to send power to the starter unless they control a relay. It could be possible that they do the same thing as in they both send/receive power when the circuit is closed. One could send power to the starter relay and one could kill the power to the accessories. This is all hypothetical cause I've never worked on the under dash wiring on a 91' loyal but when I put a new back hatch on my 85' I had two wires that were the same color and did the same thing. Sorry if I didn't help you get any further.

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