c0r3f1ght3r

Is this possible? I've been thinking about this every time I pull my ebrake. I remember the first time I tried to slide the brat and realized the ebrake was pulling the front brakes and I was like wtf?

Just a nice off road pic with my brat and something a friend made

that brat is a sweet rig

like i said before... the vehicle is just a fun mobile... I'm not too worried about it just wanted to advice for when i do decide to fix it.

yeah I'm not too worried about it honestly because the driver sides axle boot has been torn since I bought it. The tear is not that big. I'll look into the napa boots though because I'm going to do a lot of work on the brat in a couple of months.

luckily I live in columbus, GA. No salt... honestly don't feel like rebooting if its just going to tear in a few thousand miles... its a beater now anyway I got another DD.

I recently replaced one of my axles with an EMPI on my 84 brat, and the boot is already torn, maybe 2000miles... I can see all the grease has pretty much shot out all over the lower bay and transmission. The cut is about 1" long. The other axles boot is in the same condition but has never had any issues... I really don't plan on changing the boots since the other axle has been busted since I bought it and never has had a problem yet, been a year since a bought the car. But in the future if I do get replacement axles is there anything you can do to prevent those boots from tearing? I tend to do light off roading as well which could be a the culprit, but I've seen sub guys beating their old subs a lot harder.

Just my 2 cents. I'm a noob at auto mechanics and I replaced my front wheel bearings in about 3 hours with a press. Longest part was disassemble and reassemble. The way I did it maybe longer than other methods but I had a press to use. I removed everything up to axle and that as well. I took off the steering knuckle and pressed them out. Then put in the space, pressed one in, then pressed the other in and put new seals. Reassembled.

If I wanted to put in a return fuel line, where can I order the inlet that would screw into the weber carb?

Well from my observation pushing down on the 4wd lever is causing it to back the rod out a bit more from the trans I would assume since pulling up pushes the rod in.

Also I've noticed that when I decelerate that there is this uneveness in the back. Its hard to describe. It feels like power is going from one side to the other, the rear passenger wheel feels like its rolling over a small bump as I slow down. Maybe the brakes, maybe a wheel bearing...

oh wow I didn't think they went that high of a year with that one. As far as everything else is considered I've been talking to a buddy whos been doing a swap with a 5 sp dr in his brat. Hes had to get a drive shaft lengthened, clutch, and welded linkage for shifter I believe. I'm trying to get all the parts ready so I can just do the swap without having the car down for too long. Going to have to hit up some ATL junk yards, nothing down here.

Just wondering from what year(s) Subaru I can grab a 5spd and swap into my 84 brat?

Besides the weber 32/36 are there any other carbs worth trying on the EA81?

not sure what universal joint cross is, but when I pulled the rubber boot off and drove the sound seems like it comes from right in front of the drive shaft inside the transmission. It honestly seems like the 4wd lever/shift must be moving around inside or something, because if i push down on the level the noise is barely audible.

For 84 Brat 4spd hi/lo I've posted this before, but I wanted to see if I could get some different responses. When I drive my Brat between 0-25 there is a very noticeable metallic pinging noise that increases with vehicle speed and disappears. The tapping also gets louder as the vehicle warms up, and if I push DOWN on the 4wd shifter/lever the sound almost goes away. I was told this is the shift bushings and I found the sloppy bushings thread but it only talks about replacing the bushings in the actual gear shifter, not the 4wd lever. I'm getting ready to drop my transmission to swap the clutch, replace seals, and do some engine work here soon. I'll have a week so I want to get all the parts I need ready. Is there any link to a guide for replacing whatever bushings are on the 4wd shifter, and gear shifter? I would also like to mention that my gear shifter is sloppy as hell, a lot of play from side to side, but the 4wd shifter is stiff and doesn't seem like the bushings on it are messed up. -Thanks

only problem with your thread is the EGR has been removed and blocked off, my EGR is still there, and I've read other threads stating its better to have the egr valve in the mix than not.

thanks!

I also noticed that I do not have anything connected to my EGR, or maybe I'm confused. The egr is capped off because I could find anywhere to connect it to on the carb. But the valve covers have a hose running into a 3 way connector which is running into the throttle body. I have little hoses connecting to each other on all the vacuum holes that it previously had. Some are capped off by screws. I notice on the connecting portions of the valve cover hoses is residue so it seems like there is definitely some leakage going on there. Does anyone have a guide or a picture of their weber 32/36 setup because I want to cap these vacuum holes off better, but I'm not sure what to use? Owning this Brat has taught me a lot about cars lol, well older cars >_>

When I drove from UT down to GA I averaged around 320miles to the tank with probably 300lbs of stuff crammed into the back of the brat. I have not checked the idle jets, I'm a noob when it comes to this carb stuff, well cars in general... Something seems to of happened to the carb one time when I was offroading, got stuck in a mud water hole and water got into the oil because the oil pump gasket is leaking, motor would run. I flushed the motor out afterwards but it ran like garbage and I had to adjust the carb a lot differently to get to run. I've run a lot of carb cleaner through it and seafoam a few times, but I can never get it to the settings I had before. I think maybe I need to take it off and disassemble it, let it sit in my some pine sol for a few hours. I did this with the carbs on my honda cb650 which ran like poo and it ran awesome afterwards.

one thing that does bother me is that the manual for that carb says you should only have to turn out the idle mix screw 2 full turns and it should be leaned out enough, but for me to get it turned its turned out probably around 3-4 turns, and it still only idles around 600 K unless I turn the idle speed screw in quite a bit. the guy I bought it from had it on a subaru brat as well so the idle jet should be right.

well the weber is pretty damn new, its a weber 32/36 dgev. I haven't tried ethanol free. Its my daily driver and work pays for gas, but only can use Chevron.

I've been trying to get the most mpg out of my weber, but also trying to figure out some problems I've been having with it. I get around 26mpg and do about half and half city/highway driving. I would say thats pretty good, but I've seen better. Problems I'm having with the weber is a lot of the time when its warmed up and I let it sit for say 30min and try to start it I have to pump the gas about 3-4 times and it seems like fuel is leaking from the carb into the engine because I can even hear it sizzling and I can see drops leaking down the carb when I take off the air filter. I'm wondering if a return fuel line would help this issue, and maybe installing a fuel pressure regulator on the send fuel line. I've seen a few pressure regulators but I wouldn't know which one to buy, and same goes for the return fuel line, I'm wondering where I can buy the screw that you can swap with that bronze screw on the carb that would seem to be an optional return fuel line port. Any tips would be great. Thanks in advance!

how can I get this SJR conversion?

Good video. Yeah I figure by the looks of it that it would be very hard to get it out with vice grips, but I guess I'm just going to have to leave it as is... because I don't have a shop or any power tools as such shown in the video, since its been that way since I've owned the vehicle I don't really see a point in messing with it... because I've done a lot of off roading hitting hard bumps and such. It the other bolt never breaks I don't have to worry about it...