c0r3f1ght3r

Definitely seems like something worth trying since the block is aluminum and the studs are steel! Any thoughts on welding a nut onto whats left of each stud and then trying to turn that?

Hey all I've found myself in quite a predicament once again. I just bought this 96 OBS with 122k. I noticed broken exhaust studs during the first oil change so I inspected the area and noticed there was a good bit of metal sticking out from each stud and decieded I would go ahead and replace the gaskets since I just completed this job on my 95 legacy which sold a couple weeks ago. I sprayed some pb blaster on the night before, then again about an hour before attempting removal. Now I'm not sure if its because I've been lifting weights lately but just a small turn with a big 1/2" bar broke another stud off so I tried the other side going as slow as I could wiggling back and forth but still it broke off as well. So now I'm left with this after a mobile mechanic attempted to drill one out and gave up: I know I have a few options here: Remove the heads Attempt to drill them myself Have a shop do all the work for me which I really don't want to do.. I live in San Marcos Texas and have tried a few shops around here, but none of them will touch this inside the car.. I want to try drilling them out using a carbide bit, and then a big easy out, but would I be wasting my time? If I go with removing the heads myself. What is the fastest way to go about doing this engine in car? I figure I can unbolt the intake from the heads, remove the timing belt, and then the head bolts and they should drop? I know this situation as a mess and I can't expect a solid answer here but any feedback will be greatly appreciated!

Hey can you link that topic in here so i can check that connector because i dont know where to start. The wiring under the dash by the steering wheel is a nightmare.. So many connectors not connected to anything...

The battery cables are very tight, clean, and the car gets power. Here are some things I've found while messing around with it. The key cylinder works because the car beeps as soon as start to turn the key even with the ignition wiriing disconnected so I know the key detector works. When I turn on the 4 ways this relay or whatever it is circled in the picture below starts buzzing. I've tried replacing this part with another one from a RUNNING subaru and nothing changed. At one point two days ago I was able to get everything working, but this was after the key was in the ON position for about 15min so something is either burnt in the wiring harness and manages to get a current through after some point or there is a bad ground some where. Can someone link me a wiring diagram or a diagram showing all the ground points? I'm at wits end with this car and I'm acutally thinking about selling it now..

Bump. HELP PLEASE!

I also wanted to mention this car is a manual and last night I had the key in the acc position while putting up my tools and all the lights randomly turned on but it still wouldn't start. Help will be greatly appreciated!

Hey all! 95 Legacy won't start and I believe it's either a ground or relay issue but I'm not sure. When I put in the key and turn it to ACC the car beeps, the oil light comes on, but no other lights, turn key over and oil light goes off. The door indicators work as well until I turn the key.. Car did this yesterday at the grocery store but then started after trying for about a half hour, and also couple months ago but started after an hour or so as well. I tried taking the ignition apart and turning the plastic portion with a screw driver but the results are the same so I believe the cylinder can be ruled out, any ideas? Thanks!

Hey anyone want to rent me a garage and bearing press for an afternoon? I need to change my front wheel bearings! Thanks.

The alternator looks fairly new, but the starter and maf I'm pretty sure are stock. The car starts fine though and thankfully it is a manual so I don't worry about the starter too much. The car has only had two owners and the original owner sold it after a hail storm, second owner only had it for a couple months and they sold it because they were given a newer car. I took a good look underneath before I bought it and its virtually rust free, all the bushings, sway bars, etc are all very clean and doesn't make any noise even when driving down some bumpy gravel. All the axles were replaced at some point, but it seems they never touced the tie rods so I want to replace them soon since the boots are damaged. I may also do something with the exhaust because I'm pretty sure the CAT isn't helping at this point and it also makes this whistle sound at high rpm which I've read is caused by the muffler.

Hey thanks for the link I may try this sometime soon but I'm not too worried about the AC atm since its starting to cool off for the year down here.

Yea I could try that but I have no equipment to refill or pressure test and trying to use those cans which don't seem to ever really work well and are pretty expensive.

Yes I agree. I'm going to replace the wheel stud this weekend along with the bent rim. The AC was missing the drier can so I installed a new one and tried to refill it with one of those freon refill cans but the compressor wouldn't kick on so by next summer I'll take it into an AC shop and have them service it. Thankfully its nice dry heat down here!

So I just picked this little beater up and I have to say I'm impressed by it. This is my 4th Subaru and by far my favorite since its the first time having a 5 speed with AWD before this I had a 84 Subaru Brat 4spd dr 4wd, then a 93 Impreza fwd auto, and then a 98 Subaru Impreza Auto AWD. Here's some pics! It has 177,000 miles and ss far as I know the clutch, timing belt were done about 2 years ago. It has fairly new tires all around, service records all the way back to purchase date, and the only issues I've noticed is the ac doesn't work, theres some vibration coming from the front driver side when you get to about 50mph which the last owner said is from the wheel being bent, and a broken wheel stud on the back driver side which I discovered when I was attempting to rotate the tires to isolate the vibration. Anyway I'm glad to own a Subaru again!

Oh ok. Well thats good to know if I ever buy a automatic subaru again which I probably won't do again anyway. I managed to sell the car today, some mechanic bought it for 1500$, I was really surprising I would get that even though it was in really good condition aside from the trans issue.

Its been a few days since the first transmission fluid change and I'm definitly noticing a positive difference, but I take this is only going to be temporary before the transmission starts to have issues again huh.. Attempting to sale car now and cut my loses..

There was no dark fluid from the transmission that was the differential I had mentioned having drained black colored gear oil from. The transmission fluid was red but its definitely old. This sucks because the rest of the car is pretty sold. The differential itself looks new.. no leaks, no nothing on this car. I guess at one point in time it must of had some really bad tires on it.. I don't see how the current set could do damage since they are all the same tread/size/manufacturer..

Just out of curiousity I did a search for ujoints and cannot seem to find them. It seems to me that you have to replace the entire drive shaft. I think the carrier bearing on this one might be bad because even with the FWD fuse in there is this roar coming from where the drive shaft is that changes the faster you go and when you get to about 55-60mph it causes very subtile vibrations that travel from side to side depending on the angle of the car. I live in Columbus, GA and pull a part in Atlanta has quite a few foresters, legacys, and imprezas so I think I'll make a trip up there and see if I can get lucky and find one in there with lower miles.

OK. I did the above and the drivers side rear tire was easier to rotate than the passanger side rear tire. I also noticed some resistance on the passanger side so I took the drum cover off which was kind of hard so maybe the brakes are sticking on that side, but I didn't see any brake fluid residue or anything. Yesterday I changed the auto trans fluid and added some lucas conditioner and I now theres a noticable difference in awd performance so I'm going to continue to change the fluid and will do the filter this week once the part comes in. The tires on this car are pretty worn out but they are all the same... The front have a bit of camber wear, and the tread on all of the is pretty low. So this next week once I get some money together I'd like to put a decent set of tires on the thing. Should I try to get a decent used set or spend the money to get a new set? I also wanted to know if theres any danger in leaving the FWD fuse in? I'm only really using this thing for work and don't go above 45mph on the roads I take.

I took a look at the diff again today. Fluid level was good, but I changed it anyway because it was black.. I'm going to change again in a few days, but I think this poor thing is burned up. This weekend I will remove the cover plate and see whats inside. The weird part in this whole situation is the thing drives fine in after being warmed up in AWD except for when you make a sharp turns, you can still hear the roar from the back but it doesn't bind as much. The FWD fuse is working great though. I don't really think anything is wrong with the tranny but who knows.. Is there any danger using the FWD fuse?

I put the FWD fuse in as mentioned above and the car drives fine, but you can still hear the howling noise. Passangers and myself believe it is coming directly from the rear end. I jacked the car up and turned the tires on the rear and could not hear any bearing noise and I've replaced bad bearings before so I'm sure this isn't a bearing issue. It definitely feels like torque binding though but I really don't have much experience with AWD or 4x4. The tires are worn, but they have tread left, the side walls are kind of worn but all the tires are exactly the same.

Just got this 98 Subaru Impreza 2.2,auto,awd, 142, 1400$ The rear end feels like its missing gears because when I turn left or right I can feel this lock up in the back while its making this awful sound that almost sounds like an extremely bad wheel bearing. The Car howls but doesn't make any other sounds when driving in a straight line. I put a fwd fuse in and now I only hear the howl, there is no rear end locking noise when turning left or right. I'm sure my rear end is bad, but what I'm wondering is if I can rebuild it or if its easier just to replace it, what years and models will fit?

Hey all I have a 87 gl with stripped hubs that need to be replaced, and I found some on partsgeek.com, but the price is way too much for me. Any other ideas?

Decided to go ahead with the deal, and now the guy I sold it to has realized what he's gotten himself into and wants to get rid of it... So I think I made the right choice lol. I'm no DJ, more or less a music bs'er. I just loving making random chill beats, and I play guitar/bass. I've been into music a lot longer than cars so I've decided to get away from cars since I've learned what I've wanted to and continue focusing on music and I'm into stuff like OTT, Shpongle, Bassnectar, but I do play a lot of metal as well. The kaossilator is just awesome I can't put it down.

I have a 84 Brat a friend of mine at work wants to buy, but I'm trying to figure out a decent deal. Paid 1400$, but I know I'm not getting that. It has a shell. It has a weber carb that will not idle correctly, hard to cold start. Needs front cv boots replaced. Needs trans work, clutch, has rust, needs paint, and wiring work. The guy is trying to trade me a Korg Kaossilator(400$ dj tool) and 250$ cash. What do you guys think?

I pm'd the guy about it a while back. He said he sent a cd to me which was really awesome of him but I never received it. I managed to snag this book used from amazon in great condition. 21$ shipped