briankk

Was tempted to do just that, BUT.. My Loyale now has 405000 miles on it, and the rear shocks, brakes, a couple of bushings, and one wheel bearing are all shot. The GL I robbed of its rear suspension only had 76k on it when it went to the junkyard, years ago, and all the various bits look new, but for some rust on the disks.. Unsure of what years of junkyard neglect will have had on the shocks, but hey, they cost me $5 each, guess it's worth the gamble... bk

Picked up entire GL-10 rear suspension today, ran the loyale up on ramps a climbed under for a look.. I was most worried about the brake hardware routing and how to plumb in the GL-10 proportioning valve. The Loyale is exactly the same, but for the drum brakes, already has proportioning valve plumbed in. Now, either the valves look the same but differ internally, or the GL-10 must have a different master cylinder, but I can't get a straight answer on the subject, including from Subaru. So, here is plan. Will replace the Loyale bits with the GL-10 bits, but for the proportioning valve, and see if rears tend to lock up. If so, will replace Loyale MC with GL-10 part, and try again. If this fixes the problem, the MCs are different. If it doesn't fix the problem, will replace Loyale proportioning valve with identical-looking part from GL-10. If that fixes the problem, it's the valve. Gonna need gallons of brake fluid.. bk

Had a problem kind of like this, just this morning. Driving up a hill, pulled into a driveway, noticed steam from the right of the hood. Temp read normal... clutched it a shut down, opened the hood, steam from beneath the spare tire, removed that, steam coming from the clutch fork boot?? Finally found that there are 2 heater hoses down there, the hose clamp from the left hose had rotated until the point of the screw started rubbing against the right hose, eventually wearing through.. Coasted down hill to a hardware store, cut out damaged hose and replaced the section with the center bit of a garden hose repair kit. Drove to Subaru of Shingle Springs, where I found that they don't stock the part(s), but could get 'em in a couple of days, for $40. Opted out and drove home. Moral of the story, remember the hoses under the spare.. To Shingle Springs Soob: Dude! 5/8 heater hose costs a buck a foot at local hardware store, instantly available!

The rear brakes on my Loyale are shot, I'm looking at replacing with disks from an '87 GL. I've searched the topic, found a lot of discussion on proportioning valves, and complaints that the rear disks lock under low traction conditions. I seem to recall that disk brakes move different (more?, less?, I forget..) amounts of brake fluid, and so I wonder, when getting the GL brakes, should I get the master cylinder too, and avoid the rear locking problem? bk

No, this is entirely my fault. I put this axle on about 3 wks ago, evidently drove pin through half shaft, missing stub entirely. Drove it around for several hundred miles this way, with only occasional clunk from front end. When I found this, this morning, I tried skinning the halfshaft back far enough so I could see light through the roll pin, drove out what I thought would be pieces, but the pin came out whole... Skinned the halfshaft back where it belonged, drove in a good roll pin, and Bob's your uncle.. I love Soobs, no matter how ham-handed the mechanic,, they keep on truckin'.. bk

Axle is 2 weeks old, used pin supplied..

'90 Loyale, 404,416.7 miles on the clock this morning...

When I bought my Loyale a few years ago, the PO said the thing overheated to the point it was near useless, he'd added a M.Mouse electric fan, was running the thing on straight 50W oil. The Tstat was missing, I replaced it, the sending unit for the temp gauge, and the one for the FI were both shot, replaced them, now I drive up mountain freeway in the dead heat of summer at 75 mph in 5th, when it gets too steep, back to 4th and floor it for miles, temp gauge never goes over half way... The fact that this thing cools so well is one of the things that sparked my interest in the 82T engine. Oh, and I tossed the extra fan and now run the car on 15-40 Shell Rotella T. FWIW,,

It's a '87 GL wagon with only 76k miles on it, in the junkyard, in about twice as good condition as my 400k Loyale, but for having some junkyard stuff dropped on it. The junkyard refused sell it me, they want to part it out. I'll be going back for the entire rear suspension and disc brakes, shortly.. I hadn't really thought about the electrical consequences of putting an EA82T in place of a plain vanilla EA82, just imagined that changing out the CPU would deal with most of the issues... Looking at how pristine the car is, I figure it must have blown the engine, why else would anyone toss a lovely car like that? But no worries, I've a deal of experience with turbo engines, lastly a 2.3 Ford SVO, one of my all time favorite engines. Mostly, turbo motors die of neglect and failure of the steering wheel operator to understand just how much heat a turbo generates. I'd be surprised to see any damage to the bottom end, problems would be confined to the heads and turbo.. I think it's a small IHI.

(sigh)...

In the picture above "Photos of the 1982 Subaru RX "Safari Rally" , behold, the 1982 Soob RX sporting properly mounted Weber IDF carbs.. That is how it should be done.. Do tell us more about the turbo EA81, didn't even know it had been built. How much HP and torque were claimed?

I know of a kit, offered by Redline, that contains a Weber, I know of no conversion kits offered by Weber themselves. Now it is possible that Weber has changed the construction of it's carb so it works sideways, this could have happened after I quit paying attention. It seems unlikely to me, but it's possible. Go look at the VW sites, the 'other' boxer 4 engine, where IDA and IDF Webers are mostly used. Look at the 6 cyl Porsche, for whom the IDA3C was invented. The stock Corvair engine intake has the same problem as the Soob, one little hole to feed 3 cylinders on each side. The answer on the Corvair was to machine off the top on the manifold and put and IDE3C on each side, you could build a 300hp 'vair that way, I know, I've driven one.. Wonder if the EA 81 or 82 could be done similarly? Would there be any point? Are the valves big enough to move a lot of air?

Oh yes, I was up 'till 1:00 am reading about your "Bumblebee", have bookmarked it separately for further reading.. I do apologize for putting you in Oz, I was on with my brother there about something, got my wires crossed. Back in the day, I was involved with racing, knew a lot of Formula Ford people, who lived and breathed the Weber 28/36 DCD, the ancestor of the carbs we are discussing here. I had quite a Weber library for a few years, tossed it all about five years ago.. I do remember that Weber was adamant about the orientation of the carburetor with respect to vehicle travel, which I was trying to point out. That said, never mind the theory if what you have done works, as I reckon yours does. I hope it works out of OCD as well. If I were to try to go that route, I'd be inclined to begin with a 36 IDF. That said, I'm pleased enough with the SPFI on my Loyale to leave it there. IMHO, Weber carbs are OK for racing, FI has 'em beat for street use. I once had an Alfa 1750 Berlina, and two engines for it, one with the Spica mechanical FI, one with 40 DCOEs, could swap engines before lunch. I live in CA, the Weber engine wouldn't smog.. After a while, I sold the Weber engine, the FI worked better, especially as the weather changed..

Heh... I get exasperated trying to explain "sideways"... The DGV, and others of it's ilk, were designed for use on inline or V engines. No doubt that they will bolt up to Soob manifold, but they're not intended to run that way, is my point. That said, I know nothing about Soob manifolding and fuel distribution, can't speak to that.. OK. looking around on the board, I found this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/ where a guy in oz mounts a Weber sideways on an EA82 and seems happy with the results. If it works, it works, never mind the theory...

Heh... I get exasperated trying to explain "sideways"... The DGV, and others of it's ilk, were designed for use on inline or V engines. No doubt that they will bolt up to Soob manifold, but they're not intended to run that way, is my point. That said, I know nothing about Soob manifolding and fuel distribution, can't speak to that..

Oh, never mind. I give up..

On the model DGV Weber, the barrels should go down the road side by side, shoulder to shoulder, with the fuel pickup in back. Think driver and passenger, as in a car, not rider and passenger, like on a bike. The throttle linkage must be fiddled until it works, no bolt up solution I know of.

Where is it?

Now that I think about it, there was/is an 36IDF, once used on Maserati V6 engines, sometimes found on X1/9 Fiat hotrods, be the best place to start. IMHO.

Yes, the DGV and DFV are mirror images. But neither one is intended to run sideways. If you want to run a Weber in this orientation, you need a small IDF or IDA carb. I'd start with an IDF 40 and the smallest chokes available and fiddle with it. Both of John Passini's books, red and green, are available on Amazon.

I've noticed that the EA82T is widly dissed. Why? I've found one in a junkyard, and am thinking that if I fix the turbo oiling problem, it might be a pretty good engine for use up in the Sierra Nevada, above 5000 feet where the air begins to thin a bit..

I am sorry to seem contradictory, but that carb is not on the right way, it needs to be rotated 90 degrees anti-clockwise. An adaptor will be required, no doubt. I see that it fits in that position, but thats the wrong way around for a Weber. That said, it has nothing to do with the instant problem.. The carb is probably jetted for a 1600cc Ford Cortina. too lean for an 1800cc Soob. Just to check though, make sure the fuel pump still runs after the starter drop out, and disconnect the electric choke and wire it open (temporarily) to be sure it's not strangeling the engine. If, after that, it still stalls, take it to a Weber guru, you might require some fiddle with the jetting. Or, find a copy of John Pasinni's Weber tuning book, the green one, not the red one.

Thanks guys. You nailed it first time, the vacuum line was disconnected, took about 10 seconds to find and fix, when I knew what to look for.. I probably did that myself when I was changing that side halfshaft and wheel bearings, couple of weeks ago.. Recently: Wore out all four tires, replaced with Michelin Defenders. Hit a buzzard, broke and replaced the windshield. Broke the clutch cable, stranded in Murphy's, CA for an afternoon. Replaced the afore mentioned halfshaft and bearings. Replaced the timeing belt and water pump, re-replaced the water pump with proper part (my bad). To do list. Replace worn out drum brakes with GL disks & calipers, probably master cyl too. Replace rear pumkin, making noise. Will want shocks pretty soon, KYB I reckon... Steering tie rod ends want replacing, too. Been running Shell Rotella T pretty much since I bought this thing, runs 45+ oil anytime off idle. I check and adjust the oil as needed, daily, an yet sometimes have lifter noise from the right side when cold.

The old '90 Loyale has turned over 400,000 miles, chassis seems to be getting tired. Latest problem, 4WD has quit. Button on shifter no longer causes 4WD to engage. Dash display does not illuminate. Haynes manual doesn't even mention this possibility in the electrical section, or anywhere else I can find. Doesn't seem to be a fused circuit, at least not mentioned on the fuse box lid, no coverage in the schematics... HALP! I really need my 4WD for work..

Well, concerning Weber carbs generally, you have this one running sideways. Needs to be rotated 90 degrees, either way, to work properly. Float slosh in these things is a problem even the right way around..