propane

1992 Legacy Wgn, Auto trans, hi mi 266K just failed emissions due to hi carbon monoxide -23.04 grams per mile- limit: 15.0 GPM (fail), hydro carbon also seemed high at .70 GM (standard, 1.5 pass) No CEL on, starts way hard- must crank & crank when cold, seems to flood exhaust smells like gas even warm takes 2 tries. Would this be ECM temp sensor (2 wire) ? (from other posts) Prior to test I put NGK copper plugs in , wires were after Mkt. Aired tires to 32psi &changed oil ( dyno test), The sludge that was in there was fuel smelling so.. it got changed. Prior to plug change the CEL had occasionally come on, during long drawn out crank to starts, I figure its over whelming the cat w/ un burnt fuel. Once running idles smooth, full power, only work other than to change out badly gapped Autolite plugs (sooty) was battery got disconnected when I replaced bad seat belt retractor. Do injectors wear out at this mileage? where to start looking? Thx

Safe to assume a head gasket leak considering it failed under extreme load and the color of steam /white smoke and should be considered a major issue. Coolant leaks at that mileage would be common. Shops can verify by testing for combustion gases at the radiator cap. To isolate leaks, (if the leak cannot be seen visually) ultra violet dyes and light can pin point leaks (done by shops). Coolant should have been changed, along with flushing of entire system, around 24 month interval, as coolant contains “add packs “from manufacturer that eventually break down. Coolants are fairly specific to OEM standards, before mixing diff types, the fine print specs should be read. Starters are not that hard to change, and it is a matter of getting what you pay for.

Pretty sure noise was inside case, - sounded "tinny" seemed to follow rate I would assign to valve train. from what I recall, oil level was adaquate. - will recheck that . Remember its an ej 222 solid lash adj SLA The yoke between the 2 exhaust valves - one side making contact early, the other side still coming down to make contact.(only thing I can think of ) everything looked pristine in the case dunno never encounterd a SLA. thx

What would cause moderate clatter from valve cover? Car history yr ago bought a 99 OB Sport wgn 5spd AWD with the EJ222, 155K, w/ a worn clutch, previous owner said it otherwise ran fine, then started a clatter from drivers valve cover.(maybe it was hot rodded a little while showing the car) So I pulled the eng to do clutch and T belt, WP, idlers. Have the cover off, looking at the SLA valve train, checked clearances of 2 & 4 intakes OK at .008, exhaust on # 2- one was .013 the second one closer to spec at .011. I’ve never seen two valves with the yoked or Y shaped rocker bridging both valves each with adj.Thats all I found - rollers seemed ok for play Asking if anyone else has had similar clatter noise, causes? Naturally want to find cause before eng goes back in. Had CEL on, never checked codes, idled well enough from sitting for months, drove on trailer. Wondering if one side of yoked rocker is gapped wider would cause fairly loud clatter, clacky noise , modified noise with light revs,. Im half way competent to set lash having grown up on L head motors. Thx, Dan

Possible catalytic exhaust partially working- as stated earlier, check eng light on?, codes to be read, mine idled fine, stumbled to bog on load(was bad cat due to HG issues) have Head gaskets been done?

Might mention mileage on car. Subie fuel pumps are long lasting. Never heard of fuel temp code, The fuel tank looks like saddle bags, straddling the drive line hump. OK a solution Agree with ? bout it prolly be the pump.(relay failure rare.)Wise to keep the tank above a third, keeps pump cooler, reduces pumping effort etc Were me, since subie F pumps are so easy to swap, I would a used one, just me. Maybe a pay to pull yard

No clue when the front fluid was changed, and the rear prolly was never touched either.- barely a quart of fluid. While back there, look for tell tale oil seeping either out of the top breather vent or axle sides. Look at what’s left of the fluid- metal flake? All this to eliminate a possibility that fooled me twice into changing out two separate trans (same 90 leg) that I clearly heard the accel deccel howl growl up front. I just knew it was the “bad” used trannies I was buying. Yup, it was the rear diff transmitting its problems up to the front diff,- noise would go away/ change on turning a corner as well.

When was the last oil change? Type of filter (and oil 5W20) used? NAPA has silver grade oil filters on sale for 1.99- not that its going fix worn lower end wear.. might bring on end game for eng

Since I’m not too far from your location thought I would speak up, Agree with GD about swapping in a replacement at that mileage and symptom. Since this is a near rust free zone its incredibly easy, craigs list or pull an pay (harder) truck it home- eng hoist etc and its done OOps didnt see the part about no work space-- pull n pay has plenty of stripped down eng to grab a used pump if thats your path. Use their interchange system and prob just about every subaru will fit

Since GD enumerates an EJ222 as a phase II, base Legacy and Outback Sport, my “tailgating” question to this thread is what are the characteristics of EJ223 as I found on my recent 99 Impreza Outback Sport Wgn, manual , (from the ID build plate)? Will this be roller rocker & SLA? Had a variable clatter coming from drivers valve cover, can’t wait to see what it is…Thx

That is a dilemma, since you need to drive tomorrow, if it were me, and the notched part of the key is still in the lock,I would take a long thin “needle nose" pliers top and bottom to key slot and see if it will roll the lock to start and then back to off. with out undue force. Or, fish the broken half of key out. Key can only be removed in the off positon and wont take much effort to remove, if it can be grabbed. then have it duplicated, > If it is original, will have a 4 digit code (on the half that is your hand)to perhaps redone from scratch. Or, proof of ownership at a Subie dealership, along with vin# should do it as well

Rverdoold, would you have any pix of where the LPG tank is mounted? Or, explain where the tank is, and, is it integrated with the engine management system? Direct injection? or is it single port ?thx :cool: And, to add further to the thread, what I heard was that the EPA catalytic requirement for diesel over shot the mark, and resulted in breaking the exhaust particles into too fine of size, which were too small for lungs to deal with, as compared to soot particles of unsmogged tail pipe emissions for diesels.

what the other person said bout making sure it was the pump. I think you guessed correctly with the frozen (water in ) fuel line, that could have maybe taken out what was left of a high mileage pump. I would have tap- rapped the thing (top) to see if it was for sure dead. You are not the only one to struggle with the fit of the pressure hose, the one with the stainless clamp. The part II is finding that the hose is chewed up and is too short to stretch to make it work. So the hose outer cover is age deteriorated, pliers jaws will shred it.

Sure it has a dual range transmission? on a Legacy AWD? My1991 Subaru Legacy AWD, 2.2L has 331K, fitted with 5spd manual trans, no hi Lo, which I recall were on the mid eighties GL, maybe different world markets.

HLA (hydraulic lash adjuster) 1996 OB Wagon Auto-2.5L - (made 07-95) with Sq plug wires, kinda sure that’s what type I got. any other way to identify lash adj? other than valve cover R&R? Just bought the car last week and am getting ready to chase a PO304( cyl 4 misfire) with NGK plugs (going with Iridium) and still looking for wires- been reading the threads- either OEM or NGK, nobody stocks them

speedo -that year should be a mechanical cable (unless auto is diff?), as w/ mine it broke after (was a 5spd)trans swap, and the check eng light came on after a mile or two, changed cable no light etc. speedo worked. from what I understand speed sensor is in speedometer head , the dash end - check cable 1st . Alt story routine now, lastly, what will the last mechanic say about timing belt/ eng light/ codes? Once you recount as here the progression of events, you paid them for a service etc. Before diving in and changing out list of components. ask them what gives?

Does the speedometer read ok when driving? And is this a manual 5spd or auto thx As in other threads, Usually timing belt gets changed when water pump is R&R, and could contribute to current probs, The alt change out is too vague to make any sense. new? used? diagnosis of failure?

And the winner is General disorder with http://www.car-part.com :clap: that late model of car is not dealt with that much here, and I have frequently bought parts from car-part. its a goldmine for those yards listed, to sell via internet therefore are scruplous in their dealings, the site is user friendly nearly all have 800 numbers to close the deal. http://www.car-part.com <mouse click on link by the way, not that it matters, aren't you really 72 and not 27 ? welcome to the site!

on Passenger side, Sure hope it is the fuel pump, as they get expensive . Its as Miles fox sez, a twisty turn and up to get it out. hardest part for me is undoing the pressure hose to the oval tank top. I have the same lack of technique for the pressure hose to the engine, always chew up the hose rubber. That I can easliy replace w/ Napa hose which is a looser fit. NOT THE CASE with fuel pump, cant access the fuel out pressure line from under or inside the car, (It goes to a metal line "harness" similar to those that route vacuum under the engine manifold) , too short to cut off bad end and stretch. Sooo, careful to preserve hose, its the one w/ stainless clamp, phillips head screw. BTW with the carpet out of way- Its a wagon right?- is agood time to listen for the pump to run, while "cycling the key" on/ off several times. A way to affirm pump running> they almost never go bad, just saying... this is a pressurized fuel line. would be way better to have a Haynes manual to outline safety procedures

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87708&highlight=4eat&page=24 Tranny lag

You probably wanted to include whether it is an automatic or manual, as this will involve the EGR if auto. And it sounds correct to equate cold start = open loop, till the O2 sensor reaches operating temp , and the feed back loop closes via coolant temp. readings. Beyond that, I'm clueless

thats good idea not to change factory settings- those w/ paint - maybe the ECU has to relearn , and the idle RPM sounds about right, as per under hood sticker, autos are the higher one for the benefit of the torque converter, good luck

following is the link to idle air screw (early legacy) legacy 777 post looks like it could carbon up- an easy clean or back out a fraction of turn http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42733

Cant remember if you said the PCV was checked or cleaned/ replaced (few $)? Old school test (not sure its accurate today w/ modern emission system) was to shake the valve, if it rattled- was OK- I did a so so cleaning of mine. Maybe the hose is working ok, a spray down of WD 40 at its juncture(s) could tell if leaking. (idle change or surge) EDIT: You did change PCV, if the hose isn't drawing in air...