propane

:cool: this revived thread reminds me to list some stuff I have off of several 95-96 Legacy parts cars as well as the filler neck (is there an associated valve- emission related?) in for sale. As I am new to site, was appalled to see the amt of rust and corrosion other parts of the country have to deal with in working on cars. Sure there’s Mag chloride on the roads here, nothing like what is seen in pix or described in routine brake jobs for example. I'll gladly take the hail storms (run!) or wind gusts (hide!) over the Red menace

Congrats on making progress, been following the thread, to answer your question of replacement hose, the general knowledge ans is that heater hose isnt fuel resistant, so that is like a standard , further, its kinda formed w/ the 90" bend in it, (its piping hot exhaust gas)making it a posible oem , know ur ona budget, I'd like to know if Ebay sellers or such have a whole retro kit of generic replacement hoses for that corner of eng. Was lookin at mine thinkin to pull the ole AIC, and the condition of the hoses made me back off for a while seeing the same age and condition you did. Back to 1st OP, said it had poor idle at cold start up, which is "open loop" for OBDI then it when warm,idle roller coastered, which says its going to closed loop with under lying problem. thats the question, What? maybe check the tiny vac hoses on the presure switch, passenger shock tower area, those were always loose on older cars. ON another thread, titled cleaning TB? or such, Legacy 777 warns againest,cause the throttle plate has a sealer onit,that solvent will mess w/ then he goes on to say early TB , had a funny little trim screw for factory to fine tune idle, its flush mount he posted pix, don't know if related

If it were me, I'd walk away. Looked at this car on Cl owner says regular maint. thats nice, then why pulsing throbbing somethings trying crawl out from underneath the car and bite somebody in the what did say your major was? Do your homework, same year wagon,(195K) went for 1200 a last month in Jeff city.said it got 19/26 MPG which makes it an auto as was this Orca, If you can drive a stick get a 5spd 2.2 pre95. Or, get a 2.5 and you can spend all your time posting here what that bubbling sound is in the raditor overflow bottle

If the problem light comes back, due to the switch not quite reaching the door skin, a cheap trick is to put a little square sticky pad over the contact area on door, Easier than messing with the whole door adjustment thing.

Figured it was down for a tune and glad its back. So, this is what the place looks like with the lights turned on. Easier to read, less shock to system when turning to other web pages, the smilies dont contrast as well as with the other "Battlestar Glactica" grey wall paper. Just a stating a preference , not a Critsism, thx to those who keep the lights on, one of the best tools in the box, next to my ½” IR Impact, which I let sleep inside on cold nights… there is an update from the administrator above this forum concerning things to come

Good list- like the hub cap coverings- better dig out the remaining 3 of 4 mini caps for the OEM alloy ,1991 legacy LSi & add waxing the finish. drop off for fuel economy due to drag is around 65mph. From local wrench radio, fill the tank slowly, as less “higher end” gasoline components, (volatile) will escape. You paid for ‘em might as well try to keep in tank to burn along other evaporative recovery fumes. best ranking is tire pressure, syn oil or at least API “sunburst “ logo- fuel econ is a component to attain that rating, look for on oil container. Agree that Carnot efficenticy is the wall, regenerative braking, heat recovery energy to DC elec, turbo in series, replacement of HP consuming ancillaries such as AC, PS,with electric (superchargers as well) will continue the gradual increase of MPG of the Ice (internal combustion engine) Age

If this is the Georgetown next to I-70, maybe rethink the living in the Mts and what prep cars take. What was the overnight low? for Georgetown Colo it forcast to 0 degrees F sunday -4 for mon. Me thinks your battery tried to freeze, or is reduced capacity. lowered voltage 8, 9, or 10V could chatter the relays on everything. Seriously dont be a hazard to yourself and others. you need pro help and a tow to good shop. Was that light dusting of snow over black ice? side note: The lake next to the Interstate freezes almost solid and they race open Jeeps w/ SBC chevys, 1"long bolts drilled into the tires for studs... 90 MPH WIND gusts can suck the windshield right out of a car at that exit. I've seen it

PM is for preventive maint, and I probably wasn't correct to describe it that way Abbr. are great if everyone is in on the game. CEL and HG for example were new to me . and does MIL = CEL? check eng lite and head gaskets , back to your car.. the dash lites come on when fogs are switched on?/ and only familar w/ legacy where fog switch was center console. Did you say column? So , maybe R&R (remove and replace )fog lamps, 2 screws, 10mm in bumper lip upside down ,will drop the fog out to unplug, both, try the switch again and see if same result, not much help. BTW, any chance U checked replacement bulbs? same code #(1157 is only # I can remember and might be to heavy duty) ? filiment count,?

and why were bulbs plural changed,unless PM, they burn out one at a time,

new bulbs, huh? take 'em out and re install observing that the metal studs called bayonets align w/ corresponding socket grooves, they are off set- one long , short, as to make contact w/ the two diff circuits. put in wrong they may create symtomns decribed above of crossed filiments, As to the nicks, could be old school method of probing for voltage check of harness:popcorn:

If you still have a code for O2 sensor "open circuit" check the leads of O2 for a mashed wire (one of 3- 2 white, one black) It is low to ground, and I saw one recently -still conducts, insulation open, mashed by dropping the exhaust pipes, maybe when the motor was swapped. yeah, dump a little water on it right by axle to trans..not like it hasn't seen water before... then check the connector to harness see if pins are making contact by looking at it open, BTW for clarification, does the swap (2.2) have a functioning EGR system? OTHER CODES STILL PRESENT?

was waiting to hear that it was a rod, which is a short block at least. Crazy eights has it right for sourcing of used engines. Further add that since its Seattle, close port, whole bunch of JDM suppliers and installers are avail as per Craigs List your area. Doesn't sound like you are set up to R&R an eng Someone can correct me if I am not understanding JDM and compatibilty w/ Baja . Usual consumer rules apply to finding rep shop via references ,cost comparisions, looks fairly inexpensive that route. Good luck, do the homework before investing in parts , labor,

Since Gregory House M.D> (this season) is under “house arrest” (only in America), in his stead, have been assigned “clinic hours” So, this may sting a little. 1) good news is your car has been certified as a welder, (you may want to use one of those self darkening hoods, the ones with flames. are nice. 2) On 09-15-2006 OP previous posted pix #3 showing mods to engine grounds (which were later nullified, stating a ground loop (?) was created). Aside from using 8gauge wire (normal to pull a permit with the county when doing electrical, of this caliber), it was also stated “new wires were run to starter”, Shown in pix, is a heavy duty universal, lead lugged, positive cable w/ aux pig tail. I know this cable it could start an old school big block Mopar, except the other end has an over size 5/16” dia lug and exposed ½” metal sheath. None of which were booted as was OEM cable (a few bucks at pull n play), and was most likely the arc point to ground, at starter case. 3) Console glow in the day Orange, the cable not mentioned by others is the trans select cable, (the OP doesn’t say auto, only “TCU”) metal on both ends of steel wire cable; plastic sleeve & lube =smoke If grounds were eliminated at eng, and arc begins at starter case then “easiest path” to ground is trans case to cable to linkage to body. Can’t see any wire harness involvement, current of this magnitude would flash toast the fusible link. Others may see it diff. feel free to say it aint so 4) There is a “steering prob” w/ this thread

my understanding is that brake pedal has to be pressed to move shifter, and that requires elec from a charged up battery, and access underneath is from passenger side, we don't have the corrision u prob have, should be eating on metal cable ends .chock block the down wheels and safety w/ jack stands or big blocks of wood that wont tip should jack slip or fail. Once the shifter frees up U can move next to neutral safety switch issue that only allows current to starter if, as others have mentioned, it is in Park, (preferred,) or neutral. Got dash lights? I think the key can only be removed if in Park

I have a 2001 Sedan Legacy GL the JDM one. had it checked out yet but everything seems to be normal.. The radiator fan runs, the engine coolant is topped of, I havent noticed any leakage from under the car, the temp gauge shows normal heat, and the car has new air filters.. Agree with it pointing to possible head gasket failure, (didnt GG say that later ones tended to leak externally rather than 96-99 inwardly?) That said, include the car mileage, Plz. And when it was pointed out it is Iceland and you mentioned new air filter, wondered if there is any issue of volcanic ash :Flame:that is a persistant clog factor, either for air filters or radiator/ A/C condenser(if so equiped)? At that age, radiators can easliy have internal deposits restricting cooling ability.. I'll mention thermostats and water pumps as well to save someone else the effort.

Might try loosening 14mm fasteners on bracket half 16( i think all are the same length no spacers) and even the 4 hrizontal compresser bolts, allowing every thing to "knit together" before torquing to spec, and esp if 17 is just a tad off.

2.5L OBW --- never did check codes, yet. time to wrap up. By swapping in a 96 2.2 Y pipe (car was built in 08-94) an OBDII type; cured the flow problem as in Engine as "air pump". no more bogging out. conclusion the original cat was paritally clogged allowing good idle, but no power or upper RPM. Judging the amt of radiator straight water, rust, coolant that ended up in exhaust from previous owner,after H gasket failure perhaps the cat could have cleared its self. Doubtful, recycle for $ Lastly the flicker of CEL during over cranking (if it dont start in a few seconds, something is way wrong) was prob due to a mariginal battery, starter drawing most of the current away, causing the relay to pop open, reverting to key on, system check. thx for letting me post, and your input, some of U nailed right away, I was lucky to have the used parts for testing and replacement.(Colo is way kind for corrosion) I went w/ swapped sensors-(not wanting contaminated stuf) both fronts were Bosch, diff plug ins which I changed

OK, did the replacement axle have a shiny metal ring (4' dia) on the distal end? think its called a dust shield, purpose being to keep things from damaging seal U replaced. My favorite stupid trick would be to slam a new Auto Z axle with one of those on it, not realising there was was one already embedded in outer hub. Got to be a habit to prune the sucker off and use it as ring toss..rarely do I disagree w/ OE engineering, this is supposed to rotate w/ axle? If it is canted, will rub on the hub or embed and the axle turning will wallow out the fit (light press fitment) maybe others have a diff take.

was hoping someone would talk U out of altering timing, its one thing to recheck timing marks, another to deviate from what looks to be correct. OK if I had a point it would be that my understanding of ECU is that it has to relearn and refine some functions after the systems have been apart, stored info purged(?) after a battery disco. And dude, try the nitrile blue gloves to keep the oil chemicals etc from adsorbing into your skin. They're cheap( almost as cheap as I am). Also makes it easy to clean up after wrenching , no tatooed grease

Didn’t have the codes read yet, was looking at the replacement ’96 Y pipe, saw that the O2 sensor plug was diff(sq.), was going to swap out O2 sensor (on '97 OBW, it prob will need replacing at its age and life) Wanted to swap on this other part to give it a varoom test to see if it “flowed” regardless. Before I spend $92 for an OE style O2 sender, du rigour . Been reading the other site on 0420 codes and interplay of cats front and rear O2 s etc

Yup, will try to chance driving it to Auto Z, to have codes read, clogged cat would be my choice as well, was hoping someone would chime in with that actual experience, have a used Y-pipe waiting in the wings, from a 96 Legacy should that be confirmed. thx for input and will do a proper post mortem Once its resolved. One other thought was that it was extensively driven w/ bad HGaskets,(3 jugs of freeze in the back) was blowing bubbles like mad in the puke jug, was wondering if that poisoned (rusty water)the catalytic, heads had to be milled and block was a little as well. Noticed that the old H G had grey goo as a sealer (a No no)

bogs out 1997 Outback wgn, 2.5, automatic, check eng lite is on after HG & timing belt replace by former line mechanic, (not me) . Car has 207K, would idle smooth, drive at low speeds OK, would finally stall out in drive way, funny smell(not the usual over rich new cat smell) from exhaust, no smoke, . Thought it was a faulty connecter to rear cat, as plugging and unplugging connector (to rearO2 ) that action temporarily put lite out; So then I drove it around the block w/ more throttle, it bogged out when I tried to floor it to check auto tranny kickdown, drove it home and revved it :Flame:to would bog out anything over 3100 3500 RPM. Then it doesn’t want to start until it sits awhile, funny part is that on cranking the check eng lite flickers on and off (not flashing) accompanied by what sounds like a relay pinging on and off -in syncro w/ flicker. Sound is definitely under dash. New to forum so go easy on me