noob2soob22

my apoologizes for my un-familiarity with the sub engines. that "blcok that i was refering to is the oil pump. and i think you guys hit the nail on the head. im almost positive whoever replaced the pump didnt replace the gasket, and im going to pick up the rubber o-ring, replace both and that should stop my outrageous leak. thanks for the input, i dont know what i would do without this forum. long live subaru!!

any tips or suggstion as to putting some 14's on my wagon. im not quite sure if i will have to play with the suspension?

lright so i have an 83 gl wagon 1.8 my radiator was jerry rigged with a toggle switch on the hot wire of the radiator fan i found that infact its the temp sensor on the side of the radiator that acts as the GROUND switch. my first thought was that, the sensor was bad so they jumped it to be able to turn their fan on/off. BUT, i found another temp sensor about 3" lower more towards the drain plug, with no wire connected? im a little confused, which temp sensor should i be using. also, is there a way to test the temp sensor? Please please please. i dont want to lose my suby

first off 1983 gl wagon. 1.8 4wd. (recent investment, 650$ with 74k original!) i crawled underneath today found an acumulation of oil around the pan and filter/pump area. i cleaned the area real well and what i saw (only when running)is a flow of oil running down the gasket area of where the oil filter connects/ not the oil filter itself but the block that its attched too. (not quite sure on part names) it also looks as if the said 'block' from above, is not original and i can't see a trace of a gasket in between. is it possible that the oil is coming from behind the oil pump pulley? if not my money is on the probably non existent gasket thats supposed to be between the 'block' and motor

ohh i appologize. she's a 1983 subaru gl wagon 4wd. 1.8. i did some tinkering today and ended up putting the old cap back on, theres a small difference between the size of the seals under the caps. no noticeable noise now unles you really put your ear up to it after a long run, so i assume that was the problem, think i got bigger issues though. whoever owned it before me, jerry-rigged a toggle switch to the hot on the radiator fan wire. when i found infact the temp sensor is the switch for that connection, and its the ground thats interupted. but i found two temp sensors on the radiator passenger, side, one is at the lower end towards the drain plug, the other towardsthe top on the thin side. thats the one thats connected and im assuming they jumped the hot because the temp sensory's faulty. is that possible? which temp sensor should i be hooked up to.

i drive primarily dirt roads so the debri levels, i would consider high. well it looks like i have some pretreating before i can go to town with a spray,(still undecided) im leaning towards the stone guard though now, mayby the rubberized does seem like it would allow vibrations/or sounds to release through the rubber rather than traveling to the next component and essentially in the cab. or is that an invalid theory?

i need some wire schematics for a 1983 gl 4wd wagon, all i need is whats visible under the hood for now. found 4 electrical harnesess? also a missing wire to the lower radiator temp guage.

hmmm. i ts got its share of rust underneath, nothing detrimental but could see a problem arising as far as the spray sticking to the rusty surface. hmm:popcorn:

any parts that i should avoid. obviously electrical harnesses and shocks. or am i wrong?

ohh!! i like! ruberized too. that would help with some noise issues i believe. i think i like that idea better, i assume napa, autozone, etc would carry?

alright so i just got back from the gas station, and when i got back i noticed steam from under the hood, im not overheated according to the temp guage, heater blows fine, but steam is coming at a slow rate through the rad. cap, its brand new! any suggestion. a friend had said mayby the rad. cap is doing its job, and its the t-stat. also noticed the fans dont kick on on there own?

i didnt realize its not applied through a srayer, but would make sense, particals would probably plug the sprayer, but feinetly have to do the underbody before winter. so dupli color truck liner or rhino truck bed liner it is. thanks for the suggestions

thats what i was thinking, but kinda new to it. theres a big hunting ranch by my house and all the guides vehicles are COMPLETELY powdercoated? is that the word? there all textured anyhow, headlights, wheels, body, underbody. thought it was a good idea, being that im looking to pant flat aricraft grey. and then im going to add some black paint pen to make it it look like steel panels with the rivets all the way around, kinda like a jet. i'll post pics when its done.

rille your hubs ay?not a bad idea, did u pull all the original lugs or just add two of the original style.

really not looking for anything fancy. plan on a little mudd'n at the most nothing bigger than 15's, and would be happy to stay away from aloy

looking for a can style spray to undercoat for the winter. any and all suggestions welcomed

air filter, plugs wires, fuse. tire rotation. new headlights. anti-freeze. looking to undercoat as well any suggestions?

got an 83 with 13's. its the pesky 4 lug pattern, you know the one thats hard to find.lol. looking for 14" wheels for right now and poss 15's in the next year or so. open minded to suggestions

Not to change the subject, because i really do need that rod, all of a sudden after adjusting my idle down to around 900rpm cold 950rpm hot, i shifts in and out of reverse alot smoother? Could the idle speed have been the culprit to our rough shifting?

that would be so amazing!! name your price! my gf is getting discouraged, but for 650 with 75k original!! in michigan!!! i will gladly dump a grand into this little monster. just because i know its potentiaL. ANYWAY TO SEE A PIC JUST TO CONFIRM THE FIT/SIZE. I LOOKED ALL OVER TODAY ONLINE, ON THE PHONE, COULDNT FIND ANYTHING! I HAVE THE BUSHING KIT THOUGH.

funny, i was told today that thats the #1 overlooked thing when buying a preowned 4wd. what would u recomend as far as viscosity and brand?

Thanks for all your help guys, now anyone know of any place online to find one its an 83 gl 1.8 wagon 4wd if that helps

so from ive got so far. is that just for giggles and craps, i will install new rod on level ground. The rod itself does not determine angle or incline etc. just the position of the half rubber plastic bushing that goes through the mount hole. when i bought the car a week ago the previous owner said its been shifting roughly into reverse, so far ive checked idle rpm which was high @1200rpm, bringing it back down to around 900-1000rpm seemed to improve the issue, but the fact that the rod is snapped im sure plays a role. THANKS EVERYONE YOUR TIME AND HELP, IT IS APPRECIATED.

what steps need to be taken in ajusting the bushings on the engine pitch rod? is there a certain degree of angle that they need to be set at. also thermostat, is it located behind the water pump, id like to have the gasket before i take it off to find out.