noob2soob22

After spending the day shop vacing the water off the floor boards, I plan on the hose idea and seeing if I can pin point where the water is entering from. But upon further inspection of the underside of the vehicle, someone has already underlined the body with the textured bed liner stuff. It looks as though they filled in some holes real close to the vacinity of the water buildup. I noticed a couple of holes that could be plugged that may be causing the issue ( the holes are located just beyond the mud-flaps so the water is passing right by the flap). Passenger side is completly dry! It's safe to say that this isn't the first time it's been wet, I noticed some rust on the bolts for the front seat. ALSO DOES THE REAR SPEED SENSOR WIRING HAVE A HARNESS OR CONNECTOR THAT RUNS UNDER THE CARPET OF THE DRIVER SIDE? Both rear speed sensors are giving error codes, and I find it odd that they are both bad at the same time. Thanks everyone! Chris

No sunroof. It does have the roof rack. Any suggestions for tracking it down? At this point i'm contemplating streaming a caulk-line around the roof rack. So basicly it could be draing from the top, down the body to the floor?

Okay, So I ventured out and purchased a 2001 forester with a new trans and rebuilt engine (still slaps ) The guys who rebuilt it arn't exactly subaru mechanics, but anyhow I drove it in the rain and after about ten minutes, I noticed condensation and water on the floorboard. When I got home I found an inch of water in the back seat area floor board/ drivers side. I found no holes or significant rust underneath. I am missing the plastic cover for under the engine, could this be causing the water issue? Chris W. Also any know of a brush guard that will fit the 01 forester?

Is it measuring european or metric units? rather than our "standard" measurements.

I just changed alts a month ago, And installed a Sunpro voltage gauge, which reads around 14 volts with the car running, while the dash only shows around 8volts. This is unusual and just noticed it when the fuel gauge quit reading. +--->O----->+-------->0--------\\\ If i understand correctly 12 volts should be supllyed to the fuel gauge, that 13 volts is passed through the gauge and down to the sending unit, the sending unit is also grounded. The gauge will measure resistence in the sending unit, created by the float and distance from the metal band that completes the circuit. Are you sure there is no power going to the sending unit? Are you saying that this is nothing more than a ground circuit, composed of a ground passing through the gauge, and down to the sending unit?

so lately the soobs been acting up a little, lying about how much gas is in the tank the suddenly going HEY IM EMPTY! then yesterday it quit reading all together, so i crwled under the rear bumper and sarted tracing the wiring back, and low and behold, THE DREADED RIGHT RIGHT CORNER!!! duh nuh nuh! and found that someonelse had issues with it because you know how the rear defogger and sending unit share the same wiring harness (yep!) well it had been so corroted they just wired the defogger direct with a crimp, so I pulled out the ol' electrical tester, and found that I'm not getting any power from the Inst. panel down to the sender, I first noticed this at the first wiring harness you encounter when tracing backwards from the tank. Like I said, the dreaded rear panel harness. So at this point, I'm wondering why I'm not getting any power from the instrument panel. Also noticed the voltage gauge is reading obserdly low on the dash, but my sunpro gague reads around 14. This just started yesterday with the fuel gauge going out. Am I not getting ENOUGH power to that area of the Inst. panel?

:Flame:you could really get down to it, with a trip to radioshack, and a soldering gun.

What would you reccomend ? the alt i jsut installed is a 60 amp. My hydro-gen never draws more than 35 (unsure of the true draw).

Note taken. Last night, I ran the 35amp relay switch to the accesory hot, now she doesnt have to worry about turning it on or off, but I also left the LED toggle, just in case. My new alternator is working great (no warning lights) my volt gauge reads kinda low, but i used a sunpro voltage gauge and it reads around 14 with the car running , alittle over twelve with just the key on, so my dash gauge is inaccurate...no surprise though, my gas gauge is a 1/4 tank off too.

I can say that my warning lights went out as soon as i replaced my bad alt. I too had a bad diode and the other two wernt far behind. I also cant trst my dash gauge, i picked up a voltmeter from Sunpro and it's far more accurate then the dash gauge.

thanks to everyone who gave some input. New alternator is in, warning lights gone, and no longer flickering! thanks a million guys! now I need a way to safely run my hho generator. thinbk a pulse width modulator would do it? if so whats the max amp draw i should use?

One year of salt and my wagons begging for underliner!

I agree corner markers seem to be a hot commodity.

Possible. the flickering has hapened since day one, better half left generator running 6 hours, stoped charging, checked alt and found fried diodes.

Funny, I still can't get that D*** passenger speaker! Driver's is a walk in the park!

I understand why all the warning lights are illuminated, what concerns me is that they have always flcikered on me, which leads me to 1) there's a short or 2) the lead from alternator to my battery has had a bad connection. I just want to make sure I don't blow the diodes on my new alt. I greatly appreciate everyones input!! thanks guys!

where might I find this ground on an 83 ea81 wagon?

I don't think the battery cables would be the culprit in this situation either, I would however consider the lead from the alternator to the positive post of the battery, I had a loose connection and belive it caused my diodes to fry (or at least one of them.)

too much current? could you explain, I have a hydrogen generator installed as mentioned above, but i have a fuse and relay to prevent from overdrwing. I personally think that the warning lights could be shorting out, but where would I look? It's not just one warning light it's several

I sure hope that replacement of the alt, along with making sure it has a good connection to the battery solves this. I recently installed a hydrogen gerator, with a 35 amp in line fuse and 35 amp relay. This wouldn't have caused it would it? Also like i said with the warning lights, they have always flickered (all of them at once) Should i investigat this? if so where would I start?

ON SECOND THOUGHT. iF THE LEAD FROM THE ALTERNATOR TO THE BATERY IS LOOSE (BAD CONECTION) THEN THESE WARNING LIGHTS WOULD COME ON? bECUASE THEY FLICKEERED ON ME SINCE I'VE HAD THE VEHICLE THEN THE CONECTION HAS BEEN QUESTIONABLE THE WHOLE TIME. tHIS GOOD CONNECTION/ BAD CONNECTION OVER AND OVER CAUSED MY DIODES TO FRY?

ok. so I pulled my alt. and one of three diodes was fried! the other two, not far behind. SO this diode failure is causing my warning lamps to light up. correct? But on the other hand what causes diode failure? These warning lights I mentioned have ALWAYS "flickered" and it's never just one or two, it's all or none and the brightness seems to flicker. So now i'm considering a possible short? iF A SHORT IS THE CULPRIT, i'M COMPLETEY LOS. i'VE LOOKED AT BRUMBY'S 83-84 UTILITY VEHICLE WIRING DIAGRAM AND FOUND NO HELP. iS THERE A PARTICULAR WIRE GOUPING THAT'S AFFILIATED WITH TTHESE WARNING LIGHTS? aNY SUGGESTIONS?

roger that. I'm going to check the voltage on my alternator output. THANKS A MILLION!

Is the diode relaceable? Or am I in the market for a new alternator?

would this cause all the warning lights? i failed to mention that the parking brake warning light also lights up. what i dont understand is that if i hit a good bump, all the warnings go away and my voltage reads around 14-12. How positive are you that it's the dioide?