stickedy

There's an AT Legacy (1991 - EJ22) with air condition at the local junkyard. Is it possible to put the air condition in my 1991 EJ22 Legacy MT without problems? To speak: Are there already all necessary cables and connectors or would I have to mess around with the wiring harness? And could you please give me a complete list of the air condition parts so that I won't forget anything?

Thanks! Unfortunately this pictures don't show my car, but I fugured it out nonetheless. A bit tricky, but I was able to remove the hazard switch. But as far as I can tell, it seems to work fine. In fact it's just a rather simply part... However, I figured out where this "Turn Signal & Hazard Unit" is located and in a few hours I'll visit a local junkjard with a ready to pull used one

Ah, that sounds good! But can you tell me how to remove that hazard switch? I just looked at it and it seems that I have to disassemble half the car to get it... Hopefully there's a trick for it?

So, I have another problem: I used the hazard yesterday and after that (doesn't know exactly when since I realized it just today) the blinkers went out: There's no relay sound (clicking) and neither the turn signals nor the hazard works. I've checked and replaced the fuse today (it looked good, but replaced it anyway) but that changed nothing. Can you give me a hint where to look? I guess the blinker relay or module is a good start, but I don't know where it's located... So please tell me Thanks in advance!!

1993 Subaru Legacy Station 2.2 Just a quick question: How can I remove those ABS sensors from the front axles? There's a screw but after removing it, the sensor won't come off. Is there anything special to do? Thanks for answering!

Hello! I guess I'm a bit blind, but how can you remove the front bumper on a 1992 Legacy? It seems that the whole system isn't that different compared to my 1991 Loyale, but for some reasons I can't find the right screws... Thanks a lot!

Argh, that's logic! I've looked at an 1989 service manual and that was for the carbed version A look at the XT manual clearly shows the difference... Thanks! Hmm... That's bad Really bad... I'm a bit undecided what to do now. Perhaps I should rebuild the Turbo engine... Hmm, or have a look at ebay for a MPFI engine...

I've checked some documentation today and it seems to me that the intake of carbed, SPFI and MPFI versions are identical? Can anyone please confirm that? If so, we will make the engine swap and interchange the intake manifold / fuel system. Oh, because the engine is out of the car, what jobs should I do? Timing belt and water pump? What else?

If I were you, I would change that Transistor. Cost should be around 1 $ I guess (without checking it, but thise things are standard parts with no real costs) and it's made quite fast. And checking if it's working again then is also a quick task. Worth a try and think about all the money xou can save

The engine isn't a Turbo one, it's a standard MPFI! I guess I wrote it a bit difficult to understand. I have another "spare engine" here which is a Turbo, but this one is also somehow damaged. To be honest: I currently have neither the time nor the money to play around with that engine Swapping both engines would take about a day (oh yeah, there's experience on that), rebuilding the engine much longer. So, the intake of the MPFI and carbed versions are different? That's bad... The MPFI version has no knock sensor, so this wouldn't be a problem (in fact it would be simple problem to solve ).

Hello! Bad news from my broken EA82 engine. Never lend a car to a girl... OK, I guess it would have happened also if were the driver. Too make it short: Failed head gasket or crack in the head. My brother and myself took the engine apart, the head seems to be ok, so we installed a new head gasket, but that wasn't the problem: We made a quick test and there pours cooling water out of an oil passage (lower left) Am I right that this is the sign for a cracked head? (I guess, it's possible that the other head gasket or head could be damaged, but compression is ok on that side). OK, so we have to choose what to do next. A few advices and tips would be great The engine is a MPFI one, I have two fine carbed ones and a damaged Turbo engine here. I guess there are the following possibilites: Take the head from one of the carbed engines and install ist (if it's possible?) Put the carbed engine in the car and - since it's not that easy here in Germany to keep the carbed version - switch the whole injection system from the damaged engine (if it's possible?) Is must say, changing the engine is perhaps the best version, since I know that the carbed engines are fine and I don't know the real condition of the MPFI engine at all. But that only would make sense If we could easily switch from carbed to MPFI? Thanks in advance!

That's not connected with the ECU afaik

No! I (or anybody else who has access to an EPROM writer) could copy the different EPROMs to make them fitting to the different engines. The ECUs are identical, the only difference (besides the knock control which is in fact optional) must be the software in the EPROMs. So if you copy/change the EPROMs, you could fully interchange the ECUs. But does this make sense at all? Onyl if you have a really non-repairable ECU and want to use a non-fitting one instead... Reprogramming is a different story. This is for sure possible, but you have to know more details of the software system. I guess it's rather simple compared to todays ECUs, but it's too difficult to understand if you don't do any in-deepth researches about it. And it's for sure beyond my skills.

I had examined both versions and in fact the ECUs are identical, but the Turbo one has a very huge additional PCB which is supposed to be the knock control (it has a very primitive layout). This PCB is just pluged to the main PCB and could be changed or removed if needed or wanted. Nonetheless, the knock control doesn't cause the difference power band since it makes no difference if it's connected or not (I tried that for curiosity ) So, the difference should be made in software with different programs in the EPROM(s) of the main PCB. So, if you copy the EPROMs (e.g. to empty ones) and change them, you should be able to interchange the ECUs as well without further trouble.

If I remember correctly the codes were related to the knock sensor (as it simply doesn't exist at that non-turbo MPFI engine) anf to the MAF (it was damaged). But no real bad errors Nonetheless, it was not really a pleasure to drive with that improper ECU: That power gap from about 2500 to 4000 RPM is really awful! It's OK if you just have to drive that car from one point to another once (e.g. to just tansfer the car), but it isn't really a solution for daily drive! Better repair that damaged ECU!

In general an a/c wasn't very polular in Germany until the late 90ies and so sooner an a/c was - if at all - only in the upper class cars like Mercedes Benz, BMW or Audi. And since the upper class is or at least was dominated by German manufacturers you will surely get parts for that cars or their a/c nowadays but you have just lost with older exotic cars with a/c like Subaru If only the O-Rings are problematic then there will be a solution for sure but no ready-to-use solution is available... Anyway, I will phone my buddy later, perhaps he has some idea about it.

Another question: What V-Belt size do I need for the Hitachi a/c system? I have troubles to find the right size since no one differentiates between the Hitachi and the Panasonic system. And when I bought them sometimes ago, the shop gave me the wrong ones...

Wise words

OK, if it's just the O-Rings, that problem is solveable. Emptying the system wouldn't be a drawback since it's already empty Sounds good, I will check with a local car parts service this afternoon for the O-Rings. @mountaingoatgruff The problem is that here in Germany you can't buy such a retrofit kit. At least Subaru Germany told me that yesterday. And third-party parts for a/c are non-existant. A friend of mine runs a small garage and he will fill the system but he has no real idea about Subaru a/c and so I try to figure out as much as possible.

I have a Hitachi a/c for EA82 imported from the U.S.: I don't know how the situation in the USA and Canada is, but here in Europe it's not permitted to use the orginal used R12 (at least Subaru Germany told me that this was the original) refrigerant (Freon-12) any more since many years now. So, what should I use instead? Is R134a possible or should I use R413a? Or anything else? Is there a way to make the a/c compatible with R134a and if so, how could I check if it's already done? I know, many question But Subaru Germany couldn't answer me any of them

Hmm, I made some translation/language error: Of course I mean the dryer, not the condensor! Sorry for the confusion! To answer the question myself (for the records ): I somehow managed to lower the dryer far enough to get that clamp on the heater core and then somehow it was possible to get everything back in position. A real unpleasant work... But that was even surpassed today when I installed the condensor bracket and all the things in this area. Boy, I couldn't imagine that there would be so little space left. Anyway, it's done now

Yeah, perhaps I'm a bit clumsy, but what's the best way to fasten that left bigger clamp connection between dryer and heater case? I'm currently installing my a/c and everything is fine, but I can't get the parts or the whole clamp around the connection because the car body is there Is there any trick for doing that? The smaller one at the right side is already fastened and it was relatively easy... Thanks! Edit: Language error corrected

Som, the car is runnig again. Front air suspension is working normal, the rear is converted to conventional. I'm leaving in a few hours, so I have to pack all necessary things into the car... Time is ticking away

Yeah, it's an electric comprossor which kicks out at 137 psi according to the FSM. So the pressure in the air struts couldn't be higher than that... But 137 psi are not that less. Anyway, I will make an intensive search for repairing the air bags during the next weeks. And I find out that bridging the black and blue wires of the reed switches should make the control unit think that the car is at low normal which seems to be ok. So, I will make the rear conversion tomorrow It should work fine.

Hmm, it seems that most Germans are much too non-creative and don't know how to improvise something for such a problem: I was at several stores and garages today, including Bosch and MAN and I don't get any real idea besides "we haven't done any similar yet" [oh, come on, you're kidding ] and "air bags need to be changed if they are damaged" [oh, that's really something new to me ]. Anyway, I need that car in a few days, so I will convert it temporally to conventional suspension tomorrow, then I have time to work on the air suspension and search for a solution (there must be one, I have to call some sealant manufactures). But thanks for all your suggestions!! Another question: Since I'm a bit worried that the front brake hoses won't loose and because the front suspension still works, I'm thinking of doing the conversion in the rear only. Is there a easy way to make the air suspension control unit think that the rear struts are still there and that the ride height is OK? So the front suspension should work normal... If it's too complicated, I will change the front, too, but it would be much less work.