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So, I managed to make the wiring today and everything is fine now. I connected the lpg input to one of the wires from the ignition coil pack and changed the setting to 4 cylinders and 2 coils and all works as it should now. Shows 850 to 900 rpm at idle Thanks for the infos!

Ah, ok, thanks! That helps me a lot! If I see it right, then the igngition system is basically made of two independent ignition coils? I can made an adjustment in the configuration software of the LPG control unit that there are two ignition coils. I guess that will simply double the reading so that the value is correct. It's much easier to pick the signal in the engine bay than under the dish since the whole LPg wiring harness is in the engine bay. If it's not working, then using the signal from the ECU will be plan B. Many, many thanks! Edit: There's no cruise control in that European modell...

Hello, I'm currently converting my 1992 Legacy EJ22 to LPG and I have a problem to get an engine speed signal. the wiring diagram for the LPG control unit tells me to connect the corresponding wire to ignition coil minus or to another signal with min. 4 Vpp (peakt-to-peak voltage). Since there's no minus at the ignition coil, I took the minus at the igniter. But I don't get a proper signal there. Has anyone an idea, where to connect that wire? Thanks!

My Anti-lock braking system is non-functional since many months (broke the front ABS rings, don't ask,,,) and I removed the big fuse in the engine bay to prevent the ABS logic from checking it's function (which results in low brake power a few seconds after starting the engine, which could be very annoying and dangerous). So everything is fine so far, but "of course" the ABS light in the dash is on (my mother's Hyundai Starex shut offs the light also when removing the fuse). That wouldn't bother me, but it's bothering the German agencies for technical inspections (general inspection every 2 years on old cars) since last year and therefore won't approve "inspection passed" if the ABS light is on although they don't test the ABS itself for function. And you don't need to have an ABS at all... Anyway, silly German laws. I urgently need to go to the general inspection and therefore I need to get that ABS light off. Has anyone an idea how to get that light off? Besides taking out the dah and removing the bulb... Thanks!

Checked it and yes, it's the trailing arm or better the bushings are worn out. @grossgary: You can check it with the wheels in the air and levering with something against the trailing arm near those bushings. The trailing arm has to have some clearance, but not too much. It's pretty obvious then. The guy at the workshop showed and explained it... Has anyone an idea how to change those bushings? I mean it would be OK to change the whole trailing arm, but the bushing of the rear one is attached to the wheel hub and it look like big trouble to exchange this... And I've searched a bit on German ebay and webshops but didn't find a part. So I guess I have to deal with Subaru Germany and therefore this wouldn't be cheap... Has anyone a part number or a shop in the U.S. where to get those?

Hmm, I find it a bit odd that it depends clearly on the temperature. One example: It was fairly cold last night, about -15°C, so it took about 20 minutes of driving today before the blower first kicked in. Then I made a quick stop at the gas station, about 2 or 3 minutes and the blower works fine from the restart. After being at a shop for about 25 minutes, it took about 5 minutes until the blower starts after starting the engine... And that's always the case. Anyway, I will have a look at the blower and check the voltages. The different levels work fine - if the blower works at all - so I can't imagine it's the resistor pack. Anyway, I will check it The a/c system has temperature control, could it be somehow connected? I doubt it, but who knows?

My Legacy drives somehow inexact since a few days. It's a bit hard to explain, but it feels like the tail has it's own life Especially if load changes happen, the car is not strict on the road but totters fairly heavy. It feels very unsafe to drive more than 80 km/h (and even this feels not good). It's a bit like the rear wheels (or at least on of them) roam back and forth. I made a quick check today with my brother and the dampers + springs seem to be OK. Of course we had a look at the axles etc. but thanks to the heavy snow fall of the last days, there wasn't anything visible. We will take the car on a service lift in the next days to examine that further, but has anyone an idea at what to look? It seems to be related to the rear wheels, but that's only a feeling...

I have a very odd problem with my heating blower: If it's "warm" weather (let's say above 10°C / 50°F), the blower works just fine. But if it's colder, the blower won't work until the engine warms up (gauge about middle). Depending on the outside temperature (or better the engine temperature), this could last from 1 or 2 minutes to about 20 minutes... Do I need to say, that it's a bit cold inside the car then? Apart from fogged windows... If the engine is warmed up and I restart the the car after a few minutes, the blower just works fine from the start. So, I studied the workshop manual, but I couldn't find any thermostat which would explain that behavior. I don't know for sure, but it could be related to the upgraded air condition which I swapped from another Legacy. But since I did the swap in summer and the effect only occurs in winter, I don't know if it' really related to it. The a/c works fine though... Anyone an idea? Thanks!

So, today was the big day, after fixing my exhaust, I finally managed to open that tailgate again. it was the rather uhm ultimate solution with drilling a hole in cladding, nothing else worked. But now it's fixed Next things to do: front axles, ball joints, track rod ends and brake pads (perhaps also brake discs) And installing the LPG equipment How nice that there is always work to do

Thanks for the answers! I ordered an axle back exhaust for a Legacy II and it fits almost perfect. There's just a little space between the two flanges (middle part and end part, most likely that inch difference), but that was no problem with tightening the screws. And the end pipe is a bit short, but that will be solved by installing a cheap decorative pipe there Still saving more than half the money! Thank you very much!

My pipes are very bad, in fact they just consist of rust Anyway, since single end pipe will be good enough that's already good news. Anything about Legacy I vs. Legacy II exhaust?

I have a 1991 EJ22 Legacy I an my axle back exhaust died because of rust. So I have to replace it and searched for the part on ebay and got a shock because of the price (about 150 Euro). I made some researches and found that the back exhaust for the EJ18/Ej22 cars just cost about 100 Euro. The only diffence is the end pipe: EJ22 ist dual-pipe, EJ18/20 is single-pipe. Everything else seems to be identical (at least the whole exhausting system except the back exhaust is the same), so my first questione: Do I really need that dual-pipe for EJ22 or is everything fine with single-pipe? I doubt the need sine all other parts are identical, but who knows... And then I discovered that the back exhaust for Legacy II only cost about 50 Euro. I made some searches and found no real info if that back exhaust could also fit my EJ22. The pictures look identical, but the part numbers are different and it's always distinguished between Legacy I and II. So my second question: Did anyone tried to fit an Legacy II exhaust to a Legacy I (or vice versa)? Will it fit - perhaps with some work on it? Oddly enough, Legacy II EJ22 also has single-pipe and there's no difference between EJ20 an EJ22 on Legacy II... Thanks!

Thanks, I will try this tomorrow. I I have no luck, I will do what Legacy777 suggested. Found someone with the right tool ^^

I see, you know Germany And yes, in general, you are right. But that doesn't mean, that you have to make everything as it is supposed So, first of all - and the real good thing - since the car has Euro 1 exhaust emission standard, there is no need for an emission report. That saves between 150 and 1000 Euro (the first if the manufacturer made that report already for that specific car - which is unlinkely - and the latter if TÜV makes it for you). Second: Basically the installation in Germany is only allowed by certified person, but - thanks to EU - that certification is only valid to Germany, not to other EU countries, so that rule has no meaning in reality unless all components of the LPG system fulfill a specific safety norm (don't know the number right now) and you have a manual for it. Therefore I will do the installation it on my own (pssst, don't tell!). So, I only will to pay for the safety gas check at TÜV and the registration of the LPG system there. That will be about 150 to 200 Euro (I will make it together with main inspection in February). And for the LPG system. That will be about 500 Euro. So, all togther let's say 700 Euro. It would cost about 2000 - 2500 Euro when done officially in Germany and about 1500 - 2000 when done in Poland. The engine has 190.000 km, the car is 21 years old. And yes, it's attractive since I will drive to Greece in November or December, that will be about 6000 km. That will cost about 750 Euro for gasoline (1.40 Euro paying in average for one liter, 9 liter/100 km). If I drive that distance with LPG it will cost me about 450 Euro (10% more mileage, 0.75 Euro) So, I will save 300 Euro only on this trip! And minimum 30 Euro every week when in Germany. So after 13 weeks (or let's say 3 months) at the latest, the LPG system is paid And even if the car dies in the next 3 months, then I just swap the LPG system to another one So, all well thought. And i got the informations I need, the car will get the conversion in the next weeks as soon as possible.

CNG is much more complicated - and we don't have many CNG stations here, so LPG is the better choice. With LPG Venturi system you "just" have to add an Venturi nozzle in the air intake (after the air filter assembly) and the other components of the LPG Venturi system (vaporizer, LPG tank and some other stuff). Not a real challenge on that old cars - newer cars a more difficult though. Anyway, doesn't make any sense to install this and then the engine will die

Puh, must have mistyped anything in the calculator You're right of course! And since a gallon is about 3.78 liters, the amount is a bit lower - but high enough, LPG costs about 3.90 US$ per gallon... @grossgary I've done a search as bratman18 suggested, but didn't found anything about EJ22. Anyway, I will do some more searches later that day - and have a look for that Aussie guy

I have an 1991 EJ22 Legacy Station wagon and since the gasoline price here in Germany (and most parts of Europe) are much too high to afford driving (about 1.50 Euro for one Liter, that's about 7.40 US$ for one gallon), I'm playing with the idea to convert the EJ22 engine to LPG (Liquefied Petroleum Gas). But sadly those cars are not that common here in Germany and I really can't find any informations if the EJ22 is really proof for LPG operation. I don't want the engine to get damaged... I just found informations about the next generation Legacy from 1995 onwards with EJ25 to be proof for LPG operation and there everything would be fine. However that really helps since I don't know if that informations from the later Legacy's could be assigned to my model. So does anyone made a conversation to LPG yet? Sadly the message board software doesn't let me search for "lpg" or "gas"... Or has anyone see such a conversion? Thanks in advance!

Ok, here's the story: Since the handhold of my tailgate (opener) was really rusty, I decided to replace it with one from a donor car. That was no real problem, but I forgot to adjust the opener (that metal rod), so I couldn't open the tailgate after closing it. Ah, things happen... Anyway, since I haven't reinstalled the cladding yet, I could easily open the tailgate from the inside. I then adjusted that metal rod and tested the opening several times. No problem, everything works fine. So I decided that it would be time to reinstall the cladding am make everything looking nice again. That was a mistake! The next day, I couldn't open my tailgate when I try to and since I can't reach the necessary components from the inside now, I have no clue how to open it. Does anyone have an idea how to open that tailgate? Except from destroying the cladding That would be my next approach when there is no alternative... Thanks in advance!

Thank you all very much for the informations! It was a simple job doing the replacement yesterday - and the car runs fine again Doesn't take much longer than 30 minutes... I had no problems removing those nuts of the fuel pump assembly / tank after soaking them with some kind of "high capacity rust dissolver" I bought here in a German DIY market a while ago. It produces some kind of silver colored film where it was sprayed and it works great Apropos, those nuts where 8 mm!

Just follow the link to the USRM (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76906) and download the attached file "ECU_repair.zip". Extract that ZIP file and you'll find a PNG picture wichich shows Q701! The number is printed on the circuit board, so you should find it.

Hello! I have to replace the fuel pump on my 1992 Legacy Station. Am I right that I have to take out the back seat and then there is a service "hole" on the left side where I can disassembe the whole unit from the fuel tank? I only have a service manual for 1995 version, so I'm not sure about it... How long do you think this will take? 30 Minutes? Thanks!

Ah, OK, thanks! I will pull out the parts on Friday (if the weather is good) and then I will see how complicate it will be Installation on my my car not before Wednesday next week.

That old problem... Never think of it... The problem is that I don't really have a choice: That one at the junkyard is the first Legacy 1 with ac I ever saw here in Germany I don't know how old it is, it could be already 1993 or 1994, I have to check that. But I think that the ac-system perhaps is already converted to R134a or R 413a since you can't buy R12 in Germany since the beginning of the 1990ies and imho it's very likely that the ac was refilled in the last 20 years (and therefore was then converted). But I will have a closer look before I pull it out... If it's not converted, what must be replaced? Just hoses and gaskets? Isn't it possible to install the evaporator without removing the whole dash? That would make the whole job "a bit" less nasty... Hmm... Are there any technical documents about that ac-system? Unfortunately my parts of the EJ22 repair manual doesn't cover the air condition part.

My junkyard operator wants 80 Euro (about 115 US$) from me and I can put out everything which is associated with the air condition. Good deal in my eyes, but he doubts that the compressor still works, he says that if it's drained for some while it will be stiffened. Can anyone confirm this and how can I test the compressor if it still works? Since I found the necessary cable for the compressor at my car, I guess the the whole cables will be there. Is there some kind of control unit or how is the ac electrically operated? Thanks!

So, I've found the unit and swapped it together with the illumination control unit and another unnamed relay and now my turn signals are working again :) Those three relays cost me 10 Euro (about 15 US$), so that's imho a good deal... For the records: To find "Turn Signal & Hazard Unit" you have to remove the glove box (loose 2 screws at the bottom and then put it out of the frame). There is a plate with three relays on the left side just above the cover of the center console (near the radio). This plate is fixed with three screws, loose them and you can get the plate a bit out. Now you can easily loose the three connectors. Et voilá Since the "Turn Signal & Hazard Unit" is attached with another screw, it makes sense to put out the whole plate. And to identify it: There's "Mitsuba FR-3315" printed on it. Perhaps it's used in other cars, too. However a quick search on ebay showed no results.