kingbobdole
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Posts posted by kingbobdole
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Are your Baja seats black leather with "Baja" written on them? Are they heated?
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Do you always park in your yard?
What front bumper is that?
Great rig too... love the touring wagon...
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Is this thing done... YET?
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I had a 3000lbs winch from Harbor Freight that I bought for $70.00 that was on my 84 Hatch. It has a wireless remote and it has been great for pulling myself out of anything not too extreme. Typically I used it for getting out of ditches, snow drifts, etc. On my lifted 86 GL Wagon I am going to mount receiver hitches in front and rear so that I can use the winch on either end. For $70, I think it's an awesome winch. I rarely pull out other vehicles, otherwise I'd go with a larger winch.
I have the same winch which was more of a joke when I first mounted it... Looks neat and it's light weight... the only time I really tried to use it to pull a fellow ru up a huge rock, it basically melted the wiring it came with to the frame of the car... I still haven't gotten around to adding larger gauge wiring... :-\
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Depends on what you want to save... my 03 was a bit of work to get the entire thing out. I pulled EVERYTHING tho. If you want to swap it into an older car, just get the wires that pass though the firewall and hunt the fuel relay and ignition relay and the OBD connector... then get EMO and start cutting... other wise you have to pull the entire dash, cross beam, vent system and everything. Took me less then five hours to do it all IIRC....
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If you have access to a real scan tool you can watch the rear O2 sensor switch... if it follows the front directly, the cat is bad... if it takes forever to change the sensor is bad. It should stay lean 80% of the time.
Fix the front exhaust gaskets first... extra air in the exhaust makes the car run richer... which will make the cat seem broken since it cannot clean it up as easy.
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There may be a joint there, but you'll have to follow the lines from the front. Have you checked the front calipers? Rear calipers/wheel cylinders? Is the front of the booster losing paint? Check all the rubber lines at the wheels? Typically the hard lines do not break... but it has been known to happen.
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yup, that's broken.
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I put one on my rx when it was turbo... Made a very noticeable difference in power and temps. At the same time I still blew the headgaskets out of it months later with no other mods.:-\
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Don't put it in the spare tire area... I did it once and it looked really bad. No where to hide the "mess". +1 on wiring not being too bad on the early EJs... maybe three pages of diagrams. OBD 2 is not too much worse, here's my harness ready for install into the EJ25 Rx. Only three power wires and a few grounds to hook up.
The EZ30 harness was a pig though ten pages.... that one took me a while.
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Nice, but we need to talk about your wash and wax problem.
heh.... It literally hasn't been washed in years. I blew the motor sometime in 2007 and I don't remember when I washed it before that... but I haven't washed it since I got it running again, it keeps snowing and I keep being lazy... but I really need to run the buffer over it:lol:
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EJ25 in 88 rx
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Got a dyno pull on my EZ30 XT-6....
188HP and 181 TQ
There's more videos or other pulls as well.
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But does it burn oil now?
Donno... He took it like a week ago and constantly fights to keep the oil up either way... it leaks badly. I guess if it comes back needing a motor I'll know it used more oil then "normal":grin:
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I just did a 97 where the guy said he ran it in the red until it stalled and wouldn't restart. I replaced the thermostat and after checking three times I let it leave... no headgasket issue at all. I didn't believe it.
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Do yourself a favor when you pull the wiring... Don't cut Anything till the very last second. Most of the harness for the engine is rather self contained and wiring a transmission is easier then wiring the engine. Once everything goes to the right places, it will all work.
You'll need EA turbo axles unless you swap the front legacy suspension and hubs as well... then just use the leggy axles.
If you're a bit hesitant about wiring, the early EJ22s are the best place to start. They are real cake for one and for two they are well documented and quite a few people here can walk you through if you get lost. When I build a harness either totally from scratch or stripping one from a car loom, I go over every wire on the diagram and make sure it goes where the diagram says. A good ohm meter, lots of shrink wrap and good soldering skills are your friend here. It takes some time, but really the EJ22 harness is small, simple and very quick to build.
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Kingbobdole, is there a reason why you opted to bolt the shift stay on top of the tunnel as opposed to below it?
I had some clearance issues with the drive shaft.... as in, it hit it.
No idea why, that was just my solution.
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Why not just elongate the top bolt holes with some form of "lock" and adjust the top in?
or rig a camber plate?
changing from +1 degree to -1 degree will not need longer CVs... it's not a whole lot there...
Ohh and camber is typically not a huge tire wear issue... not in such a light car anyhoo.
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I did mine differently...
I got a stock WRX whole linkage... the "stay" was kept stock but the shifter was shortened... and I used a really classy "U" clamp on the back side of it..
Then I used 2wd stuff to make it look "stock"
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I have one... if you're bored at a meet and your wagon is neat-o... leave it in gear and when people walk by, scare the snot out of them! Mine will lurch forward about 2-3 feet, it's great.
My wiring was not that hard... just splice it into the ignition switch. Here's a hint. USE SOLDER, not those crappy plastic splices they give you.
My clutch switch was already broken, so I got lucky there... I also didn't wire in the hood switch that kills the remote start when the hood is open... I like to use the starter for diag... like I'll have it up on the lift looking for exhaust leaks after a off road run... start it up with the fob and there it is... the damn headers again!
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Sad Panda!
The interior could be fine... One of my friends used to have a Volvo 240GT with no back window... even drove it in the winter, and had ice in the back shelf! He got a window in it and it seemed fine.
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If it's not slipping or binding, you're fine... Man that's a LOT of fluid over filled... Didn't push anything out the vent? Didn't foam it up? Amazing!
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I was thinking about a twin stick for my wagon... but I can already spin the 29s in high and I'd probably just break something if I had a 2wd lo.
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Actually..
I'm thinking more the cat... how advanced is your scanner? Usually I'll just look at the front and rear O2 sensor readings... cruising down the road the front will be in pretty good flux, but the rear should be flat lined.
The P0420 you have is a cat efficiency code, not a heater code. Heater codes look at one thing.. continuity of the heater circuit and draw. This cat code compares the front and rear O2 readings... if they are similar, it sets the light.
You can be right though... a very lazy(faulty) front or rear sensor can also cause the code... but with the conditions you describe.. you probably just broke it...
Here's a quick test... while the exhaust is cold, lightly rap on the cat... If it sounds like a rattle, you need one:-\
my best mod ever
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Ever since I swapped my power belts for a more less-choking-hazard version my belt light flashes.... I need to fix that still.:-\