ycagelurabus

Been awhile since I posted stuff on my legacy, but thought I'd get into it again with this project. Picking up an 89 gl with d/r and a strut lift, but no subframe drop. Trying to get it out of previous owners backyard, he had bought front axles and put one in, I put in the other. As I finished Poppin in the roll pin I realized the axle popped out of the cup already, checked the other side and it was the same. I knew this would be a problem eventually but was hoping to drag it to our shop about a mile away to start really getting into it. Could he have bought the wrong axles cause I don't think they'll reach? Already have the scrap metal to drop the subframe and extend steering shaft or can get a legacy joint.

Did a full reseal and installed a free transmission from a local member. Still working out some problems, it ran fine when I just let it sit the first day. Tried to drive it to work after it snowed last night and it gave me hell. Transmission seamed to be stuck in 2nd when in drive, but I could go through 1st 2nd and 3rd with the manual. Now it's at work in our shop, it won't run, and it's giving me a code for each injector. HELP?

So i drove this out of yakima county for the first time. Going down a hill doing 70 i got the death shakes coming from the steering wheel. I had it towed to subaru and they drove it with no problems and can't get it to shake. A coworker of mine said he had a similar problem and it ended up being warped rotors. Whats your thoughts?

Just so you get the idea, i'll probably keep the 4x4 sticker for shitsngiggles.

I know it's gonna do better then my legacys auto too, it's pretty toast from running it low on atf, and taking it up some rough trails while it was low. I swear i was spending more money on atf then gas when i was driving it to work. I'm already having a lot of fun with the loyale, i didn't realize something so slow would be so much fun! The list of stuff to fix is coming together. The passenger front e brake cable is rubbing against the cv and messed up the boot, gotta mess with that so it'll clear it when i replace it. The lot said only the oil pan is leaking, and theres something leaking on the back side of the pan so i'm hoping its pan and not rear main, cant really see in there very well. Tightened up the pan bolts a little, see if that helps. Cam seals don't look like they're leaking, but it looks like theres a little bit of metal shavings in my coolant? So ill do timing and water pump, and i'll be able to get a better look at those seals. Theirs a few things i'm confused about, on my dash theres a door lock light on, don't know how to get rid of it, and the dash always shows that the front doors are open, but at the same time the automatic seatbelts work when the doors open and close? Still gotta mess around to see if i can figure it out. It was marked at 650$ originally and when i first saw it i offered them 500$. Offered him 400$ yesterday but he wouldn't budge from my original offer. after taxes and stupid fees its a little over 700$. Worth it! I'll take some pictures with my gopro and get them uploaded.

Ive been keeping my eye out for any gls in the yakima area for cheap, needed something to drive around town or just have some fun with while i work on my legacy. Didn't find much, but i did run into a 92 loyale at a car lot smaller then a gas station, that had a bunch of stupid little things wrong with it and i knew the guy wasn't telling me everything, but it runs amazingly, the a/c works awkwardly well, and its only 500$. I put it through its paces for almost a 1/2 hour test drive and nothing went wrong. I think i'm about to buy it, and hopefuly build it once the legacy is done. The push button 5spd is nifty, but not what i wanted. I'll post pictures eventually, i broke my knee cap 7 weeks ago, and i'm already buying a manual lol

I went up to rimrock last weekend to celebrate my 22nd birthday, almost didn't bring my legacy because it's been leaking so much atf, but i'm glad i did! I was just doing trails having some fun, later in the day after a few drinks a new friend shows up to the party and takes me and a couple buddys offroading in her 81 gl! It was a little mountain goat but finally bogged out! https://www.facebook.com/jacob.mercer.142/videos/vb.100001681818461/921302321269153/?type=2&theater&notif_t=like ^don't know if that link works^ But heres a few pics of the legacy before i was too intoxicated to drive!

Took a bunch of pictures with my gopro and even a timelapse but forgot it at my parents house. i'll upload those when i get it. Some quick shots i took wit my phone.

To late, my brakes needed bled anyways. It was a long day spent mostly looking for tools arounds my parents garage, which of course put me behind schedule. Rented a spring compressor, thought that was gonna be easier but the lack of tools made it harder, and i didn't really know what i was doing lol They'll go back in tomorrow when i get back from fishing clear lake, I'm not sure what to expect after running into little problems today! Pictures when I'm done.

Thats what i thought, i'm starting to pull stuff apart and didn't think about the break line. I have to disconnect it from the caliper and pull it through where it clips to the strut and bleed the breaks when im done?

All my struts are now here, i ordered 4 kyb gr2s for a 99 outback, but when they all arrived, i had one gr2 and three excel-gs? Is there a diference cause they look the same and i'd rather not have to wait for this to get corrected..

I still need to find the bad bushings and mounts before i do all this work too!

One of my new struts came today, just waiting for the other three. Snagged a knuckle this weekend thanks to bratsrus1, thanks again man!

Outback struts are on the way, i think i remember reading in a thread that since i'm using my stock springs and tophats that the back will need a couple washers or something?

Okay then i'll probably just start with the struts and see if i need anything else from there!

I knew it would work but my friend isn't very big or strong so i had to change it quickly. I'm planning on buying some outback kyb struts but keeping backing out since it's my DD and want everything planned out to get it done in a weekend. So all i'll need is rear camber bolts and the trailing arm brackets if i use my springs and tophats right? Once it's all said and done it needs to be road worthy for trips down to oregon. How can you tell if a motor/transmission mounts or other bushings are bad? They all appear to be in one peice but i've got plenty of gnarly sounds from turning and hitting bumps.

Ive always been debating on buyin an ae wagon, but love these legacys too much. I want a newer turbo'd car but i don't like the imprezas much.

forgot this picture from putting on my doughnut lol

I've really been slacking on fixing all the things because i keep breaking stuff. A couple months ago i had the drivers front knuckle break at the lower ball joint and the cv destroyed itself, so i replaced all that and both front wheal bearings. Then a couple weeks ago i hit a basketball size rock driving down bethel ridge on a day hike. I hit it with both passenger tires but it only popped the rear. c Forgot i let my roommate use my jack so i didn't have it, improvising works. I got the tire replaced but now the front whealbearing is wobbling around a month after i replaced it. So i gotta do that but i think i'll just snag a knuckle from u-pull it. My struts are tired and probably bent so it's about time i do that. Plus i've got an atf leak that appeared to be from the pan gasket, so i replaced it and it's still leaking(might just need to torque it more, i went really easy on it not wanting to break the rubber gasket). I wanna get this all sorted out soon for some camping and i wanna save for a newer car so i continue to beat the hell out of this thing. If i get 96-99 struts from an outback and use my springs and top hats all i should need is rear camber bolts and the trailing arm brackets for now? Eventually i am gonna get the body spacers, but thats probably farther down the road as i need to replace some bushings and mounts probably(plenty of knocks over bumps and turns). I've got some pictures from over the years, i'll try to start from when i bought it. Previous owners picture. Lower milage engine i put into it. My first legacy. Almost flipped it down a valley side somewhere out in little naches. Gates timing belt kit. I was a tooth off the first time i timed it lol Goodbye HID spotlights. I also want to cut a half bumper and get a sign for a skidplate. Where could i acquire such things legally lol

I'm trying to lift my 92 legacy this weekend with the help of this thread. I'm probably going for the whole 97-99 outback strut and body lift. Everything is a direct swap other then the top hats for the struts, and i might need to use some washers on the top of the back struts? What about camber bolts, do i need them if i have the outback bodylift? Just trying to clear up a few questions before i get into this. I also have to deal with a bad atf leak this weekend so i'm hoping i can get it all done and aligned.

I'm gonna keep my eye out for this brat around yakima!

Hit a few curbs, messed up a few things. Luckily my moms letting me borrow her outback sedan for a week or two. Popped one of my studded tires, so i gotta deal with that. Thats the good news. The bad news, Is that i almost popped another one, but instead it hit straight to rim and deffinetly bent some stuff. Haven't had to chance to see what all happened cause it's surrounded by almost a foot of snow. So on my grocery list i'm looking at new -tie rods -a control arm -struts(wanted them anyway) Really looking towards doing outback struts, but i don't really wanna mess with camber(unless its simple), or strain cvs. Gimme some input, i probably won't get it into our buddys shop until saturday, so i have some decisions to make.

Did the cam seals and timing today, I think I might be a tooth off cause I'm down on power, was to tired to try a re-do it tonight. Is there any tricks or tips you guys have to make sure I do it right tomorrow? I've timed this engine around three times already and never got it wrong.

There's no wobble in the wheel bearing, but my rack&pinion does knock when i hit certain bumps. I could've sworn it was the brakes though cause i stuck my head out the window a bit and it sounded like like it was coming from that wheel. Thats the only corner i put a new caliper on too. Can new pads/rotors make noise when they wear in? Cause it didn't do it at all on my way home from work just now.

It's more of a metal grind then a whine/click/wobble. There was a little line worn on to the pad and rotor, but couldn't find what it came from. Could something have gotten stuck in the pad?