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The oil is likely from the front crank seal. While you're in there, it's time for a new water pump, T-belt, and O-ring seal on the oil pump. Also check oil pump casing screws for tightness. Best low $ improvement is the "snorkusectomy" intake mod. The '97 intake flows pretty darn well, enough that many question the $250 for an aftermarket intake, especially when the snorkusectomy mod does just as well and doesn't harm low-rpm takeoff with bogging. Aftermarket headers have not really proven themselves yet, first borlas would crack, 2nd run did better but I don't know if the difference has been great. If you've got a couple hundred bucks in your pocket, I'd really look at cams first. I think there are a few folks that grind them now-- paeco automotive will grind anything if you don't find a ready-made soobee cam. Emily at CCR (she frequents this board) should know. The 2.2 is a bulletproof motor and will run wide open all day long. Target $40 per HP as your improvement measure. Mike

Thought y'all'd like this. Note the shrinking differences between synth and dino oil, like comparing valvoline to mobile 1. Happy Holidays! Mike ------------ These are the most comprehensive and recent ones I could find. They date to March 2003 and May 2003. I will post the numbers, add a comment or two, and answer any questions you may care to pose. These tests were commisioned by Amsoil, but since they use standardized ASTM protocols, they could easily be verified, and any deception challenged. Based on my experiences with the products from all these companies, and the results of similar but less comprehensive tests posted elsewhere, these do not look doctored or suspect. But as I did not oversee them, I cannot and will not be accountable for any discrepancies, real or imagined. This was a lot of work to type, and I strived to get them right. 1. All the oils were 10w30 viscosity 2. The oils tested were: Amsoil (syn) Castrol GTX Drive Hard (mineral) Valvoline Synpower (syn) Mobil Drive Clean (min) - isn't this the rebadged Honda oil? Pennzoil Purebase (min) Quaker State (Syn) Quaker State Peak Perf (min) Castrol Syntec (syn) Valvoline (min) Pennzoil Synthetic (syn) Mobil1 SuperSyn (syn) The following ASTM tests were run: Thin-film Oxygen Uptake ( D-4742) High Temp/High Shear ( D-4683) NOACK Volatility ( D-5900) Pout Point (D-97) Total Base Number (D-2896) Cold Cranking Simulator D-5293) 4-Ball Wear (D-4172) ********************************************************* Test 1: Thin Film Oxygen Uptake: Measures the oxidation stability of an oil. The induction time (break point) in minutes is measured. The test uses standard amounts of fuel dilution, soluble metals, and water to offer a real-world applicability. Results for this test(all units in minutes): Amsoil: >500 (no break) Mobil1: 397 Pennzoil Purebase: 242 Castrol Syntec: 221 Valvoline: 219 Vavoline SynPower: 211 Mobil Drive Clean: 209 Quaker State Peak Performance: 192 Pennzoil Synthetic: 159 Quaker State Synthetic: 159 Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 132 Test 2: High Temperature/High Shear (HT/HS) Measures a lube's performance under severe heat and shear (mechanical stress) as would be found in the journal bearings under heavy load. The units displayed are viscosity based, using the centipose unit (cP). The minimum spec for a 30w is 2.9 cP. Results for this test (all units in cP): Amsoil: 3.51 Quaker State Peak Performance: 3.37 Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 3.35 Vavoline SynPower: 3.30 Mobil1: 3.30 Valvoline: 3.30 Mobil Drive Clean: 3.28 Pennzoil Purebase: 3.16 Quaker State Synthetic: 3.15 Pennzoil Synthetic: 3.14 Castrol Syntec: 3.13 Test 3: NOACK Volatility. Measures the evaporative loss of lubricants in high temperature conditions. The higher the number, the thicker the lubricant will become. API SL and GF-3 specs allow for a 15% evaporation limit. In this test, obviously, lower is better. Syns almost always have an advantage due to their monomolecularity. Results for this test (% weight loss): Amsoil: 4.86 Vavoline SynPower: 7.03 Castrol Syntec: 7.77 Quaker State Synthetic: 7.80 Pennzoil Synthetic: 8.15 Mobil1: 8.92 Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 8.93 Quaker State Peak Performance: 10.63 Mobil Drive Clean: 10.83 Pennzoil Purebase: 10.93 Valvoline: 12.18 Test 4: Pour Point This test reveals the lowest temperature at which a lubricant will flow when cooled under test conditions. The lower, the better the product will perform in getting from the oil pan to the upper oil galleys, and in providing oil pressure quickly. Synoils generally are the best, because they are free of wax crystals, but today's mineral oils are better refined to remove wax impurities, and use advanced pour point depressant additives to help offset the synoils' intrinsically better properties. Results for this test (all units in degrees Centigrade): Amsoil: -48 Mobil1: -46 Vavoline SynPower: -46 Castrol Syntec: -43 Pennzoil Synthetic: -40 Quaker State Synthetic: -40 Pennzoil Purebase: -37 Valvoline: -37 Mobil Drive Clean: -37 Castrol GTX Drive Hard: -37 Quaker State Peak Performance: -34 Test 5: Total Base Number (TBN) TBN displays the lubricant's reserve alkalinity, and is, of course, the opposite of TAN (total acid number). A high TBN will help resist the formation of acids from sulfur and other sources. It is also a good indicator of reserve resistance to oxidation. The higher the number, the superior ability to suspend contaminants and the greater the ability to provide long-drain intervals Results for this test (all units in mg KOH/g): Amsoil: 12.34 Vavoline SynPower: 11.38 Castrol Syntec: 10.39 Pennzoil Synthetic: 9.73 Mobil1: 8.57 Valvoline: 7.88 Quaker State Synthetic: 7.82 Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 7.74 Mobil Drive Clean: 7.71 Quaker State Peak Performance: 7.55 Pennzoil Purebase: 7.40 RR's comments: I was very impressed with all the oils, as the mineral oils have significantly improved, consistent with previous comments about how mineral oils are closing in, and that the GF-3 spec has resulted in very good performing products. Mobil1's showing is the best i have seen for that product, which usually was in the 5-6 range previously. It certainly also supports my previous comments that the 3K oil change "necessity" is out of place with current technology. Like an enema for a dead man, while it may not help to do a 3K change, it wouldn't hurt I guess. Test 6: Cold Crank Sumulator This one determines the apparent viscosity of the oils at low temperatures and high shear rates, simulating the dreaded cold start. It has direct applicability to engine cranking, the lower the number the better in terms of stress on the battery, starter, etc. A 10w is tested at -25degF and must show a vis <7000 cP to pass. Results for this test (all units cP at -25degC): Pennzoil Synthetic: 3538 Amsoil: 3590 Mobil1: 3967 Quaker State Synthetic: 4142 Vavoline SynPower: 4541 Quaker State Peak Performance: 4620 Castrol Syntec: 4783 Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 5804 Pennzoil Purebase: 5936 Mobil Drive Clean: 6448 Valvoline: 6458 RR Comments: If you live and drive your car in very cold climates, the advantage of the synoils is obvious. Keep in mind that the NOACK performance figures here as well, as this tests hows the performance of fresh oil - after a few thousand miles, the oils with higher volatility will likely have thickened, unless there has been high dilution from fuel, such as can occur if excessive startup idling warmups are employed. Test 7: Four Ball Wear This one is a good indicator of the wear protection of a lubricant, although in the real-world it is should be factored in with the TBN of the oil. Three metal balls are clamped together, and a rotating 4th one is pressed against them in sliding contact. A scar is produced, since at some point the film strength (resistance to being squeezed out) of the oil will be exceeded. The scar is then measured, and the smaller the average wear scar, the better. This test is affected by both the base stock of the oil, and its additive package. Results for this test (all units in inches): Amsoil: 0.40 Castrol Syntec: 0.45 Vavoline SynPower: 0.55 Quaker State Synthetic: 0.55 Mobil Drive Clean: 0.55 Pennzoil Synthetic: 0.60 Mobil1: 0.60 Valvoline: 0.60 Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 0.60 Quaker State Peak Performance: 0.60 Pennzoil Purebase: 0.65 RR Comments: Amsoil and Castrol Syntec are the clear frontrunners, indicating excellent chemistry and use of anti-wear additives. Once again, the high performance of the mineral oils against the 2nd tier synoils is notable, although one cannot dismiss the superiroity of the synoils across the board. ************************************************************** Final comments: I think that except for one of the lubes, there was a wide discrepancy of performance for the others - one might be good here, not so good there. As in life, consistency of performance is what sets apart the great from the good. As Voltaire said, "The best is the enemy of the good". Perfectly good performance can be found in any of these products, and a thinking owner would factor his/her driving styles, operating conditions (environmental), maintenance schedule (intervals between changes), cost constraints, buy vs lease, and expected length of ownership into making a choice. Now, what about the other top synoils? Well, they were not tested here, but certainly the industry giants were. Based on tests I have run or seen from sources I trust in the industry, Red Line, NEO, Motul, and others would likely score in the top quartile of these tests. The tests anmd UOA's I have seen for Royal Purple have never shown it to be other than mid-tier, competitive with the synoil or GIII mineral oils from the major companies. Hope this is useful to you - I found it fascinating to watch the goo go head to head. Happy Motoring!!

I've heard the same--- it's the availability of the proper measuring tools, a press, and a drawer full of shims that tends to push the home mechanic away. Mike

Echo 99OBW on the AC vs DC and surface effect of conduction. That's correct. Personally, I've done both-- soldering and crimping. Done correctly, I've never had either fail, unless it's subject to vibration. My solder joints in harsh environments tend to outlast crimped connections. I started soldering car wiring somewhere around age 10, so there's 20 years of experience. I find that for audio connections and high current lines, like alternator mains, etc, that soldering tends to be less problematic. IF it gets hot enough to melt solder, bigger problems exist. By the time it melts, the insulation has dripped/burned off the wire, so now you have a fire.... Never had any of this happen on mine (knocking on wood). If a crimped connection isn't sealed properly, it will age, corrode, etc. If it is done properly, especially if it's not under the hood/exposed to water, salt, etc., it'll be fine also. 50/50-- crimps with pliers, shrink tubing, heat source, glue vs soldering iron, stand, solder, and tape... Mike

Alignment Struts Bushings Tire Pressure In the meantime, raise the rear pressure a few # over the front to try to keep it better planted. BTW-- are you running oem wheels or aftermarket? Heavier wheels spend less quality time with the pavement if it's not smooth. That whole "unsprung weight" thing... Mike

emissions: I had to get our 2.2L sniffed every 2 yrs for MD smog tests. Dyno and neutral rev. Being that it was SO clean, I mean, like at only 5-10% of maximum limts, I'd think you can do quite a bit before pushing past the limits. It sounds like a fairly mild cam, but valving is definently the bottleneck in the motor--oem intake and exh is already pretty good (tho it may not matter as much for your use). You WILL want to play with intake tuning. Go ahead and pull the entire stock intake with the motor. Lots/most aftermarket intakes induce low/rev "bogging" which is annoying/downright dangerous sometimes. Learn from the oem intake design while fabricating your own, or even mix 'n match parts. Sounds like a great project! Mike

yea, noticed that cap on V+. Decouple DC? No... The 3914 is a neat chip--- I've used it in variable bench supplies for both V and I readouts. It does not really need a regulated V+, but it is saddled with the job of dissipating LED current. at 14V it'll get a bit warm if it's driving several LEDs. Or you could run it in"dot" mode, so only one lights at a a time. I typically regulate to 5V-- it's only another $0.59 for the LM350 (right?) and a few cents for a zener to create an expanded scale Vmeter.... In a noisy DC environment such as a car, I'd think a regulator, parallel caps and coil would be a nice thing for any solid state stuff. Mikey

do the lows use fuses or breakers? Are they separate circuits for each side (check). If separate, find the common points (1 or 2 relays, etc.?) and target those. Relays can go bad even if they make sound, but I wouldn't expect 2 to fail at once. You said you did check the bulbs, right? Ohm test or juice test? If the relay clicks, I'm not sure if the switch is the culprit, unless it's the hi/lo switch at fault-- that could do it. You need a diagram... mike

listen to different brands at the sotre. my sony fm mod changer was clear, but had a bit too much of a warm, bassy sound with a touch of harsh treble. a friend's kenwood sounded way clean and crisp, and I listened to a pioneer that had lots of hiss. YMMV (your mileage may vary). mike

ok-- this is basically an adjustable voltmeter. the chip is a standard driver for bar graph meters. This circuit is designed to be calibrated.... but I have no idea to what. No data for quantitative adjustment--- just shows changes in... O2 sensor readings??? For air/fuel mix it'd need to compare MAF readings with injector pulse width or something-- too many variables affect the above idea to make it accurate. Might look cool, but... Mike

I'll take a look at it. I'm between jobs right now and could use the $$. Mike

water pump leaking? How old is the pump? Damp spot under the front of the engine? Mike

Folks on the miata bbs report positive results, but sometimes idle gets affected and ecu must be reset. Mike

I have had good service from Paul Bros subaru in Reston. Prices were normal, in the bell curve, but they did good work. no complaints. mike

INNER TUBES GENERATE EXCESS HEAT AT HIGH SPEEDS!!!! Really, really NOT a good idea. Can you say "blowout?" Get 'em sealed... Mike

pat, am I reading right that you used a sw to dump 12V into the solenoid? And that worked, right? Dealer's "you need a new trans" is bunk. Youv'e already proven that it's an electrical problem. With the fwd fuse in, V should never have dropped. Being that it did suggests wiring (again) or TCU. Now, you've got code 24. Dunno what this is, BUT, if you self-wire the solenoid, and the trans comp no longer "sees" it, it could'should trigger a "something's not quite right" response, which maybe what it's already doing, since the circuit is not always in tact as it is. I like the sw idea. Only Q I had was if the solenoid gets a straight 12V or if it goes through a resister to limit current first (would be in the TCU). Sounds like it's straight tho... Mike

cheap fix, works well: Buy spring stiffeners at the local car store... they are clamps that can either pull 360 degrees of the coil together (cheap lowering) or spread them apart. Quick install: 1. jack it up, 2. squeeze the clamp between the coils (2 per spring) opposite each other, 3. "open" it up until just past finger tight, then tighten the bolts to lock it down. 4. remove jack. Now, if your struts are worn it will bounce more--- this effectively increases the spring rate. Also, steering will provide just a bit less feedback with the rear higher, but still very driveable, but this is easy enough that you can remove them after the trip if U want. Mike

sounds like you're back firing during deceleration, and you're hearing it muffled inside the exh system. When's the last time you had a tune up, plugs, top end cleaned, etc. Could also try higher octane fuel. Mike

Switching back: Is NOT a fable. What has happened is that new synth oils are formulated differently than 5 years ago. 5 years ago, switching back to dino oil would cause seal leakage, I can personally attest. Newer oils, 'tis ok to go back and forth, but personally, after shrinking the 3 front seals on an otherwise flawless 1.8, I'll stick with just one. Mike

yes, or cut a slit in the hose mount on the strut. The line comes off easily, and the bleed is easy too (you've already got good access with the wheels off. All in all it took me 4.5 hours including the drive to the mechanic to have the springs moved to the new struts. Be sure to mark the suspension-setting nuts precisely. Also, be sure to use strong tools; 1/2 drive socket set is mandatory, air wrench or breaker bar is mandatory for removal, preferably a 6 point socket (not 12). Mike

no need to buy the fancy 12V LEDs with internal resistors. Buy the normal ones and add a 1kohm resister inline. If you're loading up for a project, buy from digikey.com and save some $$. Remember KITT? How 'bout a nice and pretty dash-mount, or better yet, overhead... :-) Not sure the latch circuit is needed, but it's a good idea. Mike

I've had a T-belt with 40,000miles stretch to the point of throwing a misfire code. Does the stalling always happen at speed? Not sure if the 2 are related, frankly. I'm wondering when the fuel filter was last replaced, and if the fuel delivery is involved. Wouln't MAF failure throw a MAF code, and then enter "limp" mode, running very poorly but still running? Auto or manual trans? VWs experienced this with the relays that power the FIs. Almost need a few small lamps on the dash-- one from fuel pump, one from injector power--- to indicate if power loss is playing a part. Mike

local is recommended so you can check the date code... don't want one more than 4 months old. Mike

here's a hack, idea-- try it at your own risk--- keeps you going until you can sort it out. Record resistance of the temp sensor driving the ecu. Find the highest temp where it still runs ok, note the resistance R1. Then check resistance at normal running/higher temp, if practical R2. Take the difference (R2-R1), add 50% to that value and buy that resistor from ratshack. Add it inline with the sensor wire. Will spoof the ECU to think it's still a bit cool. Crappy mpg, not-great emissions, but it'll buy you some time.... note: your cat might not like it... Mike

I assume all fuses have been checked-- fuel delivery and ignition, etc. Mike