JohnVT

which 2.2 is best to get for a 97 OBW? what years should I look for? what else should I look for?? what will need to change/adapt to replace a 2.5? thanks.

Replace the timing belt tensioner right away if it wasn't done with the belt change.

The first time I changed the clutch on my 97 OBW I used the hoist to hold up the back of the engine, and dropped the transmission. the second time I discovered the engine isn't really going anywhere and used the hoist to help pull the transmission back up onto the engine...

you might want to check what was changed with the timing belt, especially if the tensioner was changed (it should have been!) ENJOY!

I would think that the boot provides electrical insulation, not just physical protection. Without the boot you might get grounding (arcing) to the block or valve cover... grease, and careful, although nearly impossible, twisting and pulling!

Took me less than 20, but a little more than 5. Not counting the time spent here reading how to do it, and that I should ignore the Haynes instructions telling you to remove the intake manifold to get to it . All in all, very easy.

right, but I think they are for the newer 2.5l, my 97 OBW has all straight plugs, but they need to bend down under the throttle cable and the right angle wires probably fit better. John

not sure if they are interchangeable, but subarugenuineparts.com has one part that fits 95-05 1.8L, 2.0L, 2.2L, and another part for 96-98 2.5L.

The ignition coil I purchased from an aftermarket auto parts store has the same manufacturer and part number as the original that was on the car, and seems to be working fine. I had problems with aftermarket spark plug wires and spark plugs - use Subaru OEM wires from the dealer (also some online sources, search these fora) and NGK spark plugs. Good luck.

any pointers? thanks!

Hi - will check fuel, ignition, compression after the snowstorm tomorrow... (didn't get to do that yet, 2 feet of snow to clean up) If I have to pull valves, does anyone know a good machine shop in the Burlington, Vermont area? How much to machine heads, valves, replace valves?? can someone point me to a good procedure to check, change valves, and while I'm there, probably the headgaskets... OR if I decide to have this done, how much to replace valves, what else needs to be done. Has new t-belt, sprockets, water pump, oil seals, ... What should that cost?? Any experience to share with mechanics in this part of Vermont?? 97OBW 2.5 DOHC - EJ25 thanks

ok, how do I check the compression with no start? I have a compression guage, but I think it needs to be running? what do I need? I thought it was turning ok, so changed everything ($$$$$$$) as I described before, but now still whining when trying to start, and no ignition. but did sound like a backfire, so now of course, sounds like a bad valve. so is this a pull it out? guess I'll pull the HG too now... and the ECU has been complaining about the rear O2 sensor for a while too... hope that didn't mask something else. thanks.

yep - I guess another break (no pun intended) to go back to the dealer... (and this one was my fault!!!) thanks.

one more question! what are the 'ears' on the crankshaft sprocket for? how catastrophic is it if one breaks off?? thanks again:mad:

Right - ALWAYS check the oil immediately after an oil change. It's just as likely to have no oil as too much. A friend lost an engine at a 'fast-lube' joint with no oil. Shop blamed it on the auto fill mechanism. He eventually got something out of them, but it was painful.