Daskuppler

So I got the 13/32 drill bit for the helicoil, drilled a nice hole, and then jacked up the threads tapping it. It was all going very well, then the tap kicked off crooked and then slipped in the threads. Helicoil threads in and locks in place, but the bolt won't tighten down on it and ends up spinning the helicoil. Pulling the bolt removes the helicoil. How bad is this? Where do I go from here? I don't think a bigger bolt will fit through the idler... Would something like this be acceptable: https://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-BIG-SERT-Oversized-Metric-5012/dp/B003QB5HR6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8 How do you ensure the new hole is perfectly centered with the old one?

Picked up the car today. Heater didn't work. I figured they forgot to clip in the temperature control cable behind the glove box... Turns out they broke the clip, ziptied it and it didn't work...

All was going well and then I went to put the last timing idler on the belt to button it all up and it stripped the threads... Helicoil kit was available, but it didn't come with a drill bit and no one has one locally... So I now have a stripped hole in the block and a 13/32 bit on order

The block cleaned up in about 5 minutes with those wheels... That was fantastic! Heads are on, I'll finish assembly today and start it up. Last time I did this I had an old school needle style torque wrench... it's amazing how much easier and quicker it torques with a Snap On digital techangle haha. Final torque was consistently about 80 ft. Lbs on outter bolts and about 85 in the middle

Sounds good, just wanted to make sure. What's the best way to prep the block? Plastic scraper isn't doing anything not is a blue brillo pad... In afraid to use green or a razor blade like I see recommended a lot... These seem to be safe if used intelligently... https://www.amazon.com/3M-18733-Roloc-Bristle-Disc-Grade/dp/B01MSU3PYQ/ref=asc_df_B01MSU3PYQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167141040944&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14711658656758044995&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028789&hvtargid=pla-312385222261&psc=1&mcid=c1428ec972263d6c8b5dccd014b22426&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwbitBhDIARIsABfFYIJIDH0VZfVX7PGo1YJ-ylkZgNR2p5JtUto48s8sSAk59RwD6djxLkQaAimuEALw_wcB

I received part number 11044AA633 from Subaru Parts Deals for my head gaskets. They are steel but don't appear to be triple layered... Is this the right gasket? It's the part number the dealership quoted as superceding all other parts numbers..

Honestly, most of our complaints are part of having a new car. They aren't what they used to be, and we bought this Forester expecting it to still be a Subaru. They just aren't the same. Apart from the oil consumption, which is about 1qt per oil change in a good block, the FB engine has been fine for us. We run very hard (we drive over the Rockies from Denver to Utah 2-3 times a month and are usually loaded down pretty good. It gets good fuel economy even loaded and going over the mountains. Power sucks, but it's a NA Subaru so it is what it is. I personally like the CVT, but 5hey are notoriously weak and prone I failure around 150k. We have changed the CVT fluid once per year (about every 20k) since we got the car in 2017. It has been problem nearly problem free so far.. apart from the two times it didn't adjust ratios and bounced off the rev limiter... Both times were going uphill and passing at 80+mph. Fluid changes require a code reader capable of reading live data. Front differential changes are a nightmare. The vehicle is very capable off-road for it's stance. A good driver will go many places. Parts are expensive, and per a recent interaction with Subaru, parts will begin to be discontinued this year and have generally been difficult to source. Could be COVID fallout as well.

I'm sure it was a bad batch of bearings, but still an issue. Heat has never been a problem for us, the heater works very well. We. Live in Colorado and are frequently. Out in sub zero temperatures. My biggest complaint is the computer controls over engine HP and torque. When the engine is cold, you are a road hazard and can't get out of your own way. It's very annoying because the power is limited regardless of what you do, even in an emergency.

My wife and I have a 2014 Forester. Hands down the worst car we have ever owned. That being said, we probably got a lemon. That being said, Subaru denied our claim on oil consumption, had the dealership replace the block at cost... We had two blocks fail (both rod bearings) within 500 miles. CV axles went out within 80k miles Occupant detection mat went out in passenger seat Driver heated seats went out(havw to replace the entire seat to fix) AC compressor went out in under 100k Radio went out at 40k Neutral safety switch went out And last, but not least, bulkhead Wiring Harness failed (I think the damage was a result from the engine removal). Currently waiting for the CVT to go as we're at 142k, but so far it's been okay... I would buy the 2010.

Yeah...I thought so as well. $6/grommet. The new blue coolant is $40/gallon premixed as well.

Fun facts after visiting Subaru for head bolts: Green coolant is discontinued and no longer available. Valve cover gasket set will run you nearly $200 for two gaskets, 12 grommets, and 4 tube seals.... And... Subaru only guarantees parts for 10 years then they start discontinuing parts.

I got the last set of Subaru OEM bolts at the local dealership just to be safe!

All good points! I should. Probably just order OEM bolts. This engine has never overheated on the gauge, but it has pushed some coolant. Out of the overflow reservoir.

I thought that was the case as well, it then looked it up and it seems quite common to reuse them along with the FSM not requesting new ones. Seems like there's no real definitive answer 😔

Great, thank you! The old head bolts are Fel-pro, I know r gadgets are bad, but I would assume the bolts are fine to reuse? This would be the second time.

Diagnosis and solution can be found here:

Okay, sounds good. What about Subaru vs aftermarket coolant? Does it matter as long as it's silicate free? Is the conditioner necessary with the MLS gaskets?

Thanks for the input! All timing components are Subaru OEM including the water pump. Does the oil pump need to be from Subaru if I upgrade it? I was planning on leaving the engine in since I don't have a cherry picker. It is a 5mt, clutch was replaced not terribly long ago and has no signs of needing replacement. I planned on having the heads resurfaced, hot dipped, and inspected by a local machine shop. Should they just do the cam seals as well?

Hello Everyone! This post is more for clarification than anything as I'm pretty certain my head gaskets are failing. 2002 Impreza TS Heat is intermittently hot, though almost always warm. Top radiator hose is harder than usual, but doesn't stay hard once cooled down. Lower radiator hose is intermittently cold when top is hot Overflow tank is full and overflows when on the highway Temperature gauge is rock steady Current gaskets are Felpro triple layer steele and are about 10 years old with 70kish on them. If this is indeed bad gaskets, what else should be done at this time? Car has 142k on it. Timing components, thermostat, water pump, and radiator are all new within 10k. No visible leaks on anything. Cheers

Here is some more documentation on troubleshooting procedures and diagrams from Subaru. COMMUNICATION FOR INITIALIZING IMPOSSIBLE.pdf CAN BUS general diag.pdf U0073.pdf CAN BUS check.pdf

The dealership definitely redeemed themselves a bit with the email. The tech is clearly insanely knowledgeable, but he is a senior master tech so I would hope he is. My only concern with a fix like that is the potential for future failure. We are hard on this car and it sees a lot of dirt roads and gets run pretty hard. If it was anywhere but behind the heater core, this would all be much easier. It would be amazing to be that knowledgeable!

Yeah, it was good I formation. I thought. Maybe someone could benefit from a little inside knowledge. It all seems logical to me. The harness seems to go through the firewall in 3 or 4 spots.

We will certainly be leaving a review and reaching out to management. I was able to get a written statement from the tech outlining the steps taken to troubleshoot and their data. I don't know a whole lot about it, but it seems like it was thorough. I have one quote back that's cheaper and they are a Subaru only mechanic, just not a dealership. From the tech: Vehicle presented with intermittent issue of multiple warning lights and no data being sent to combination meter or multi-funtion display, also has no power steering assist. Upon further inspection tech found there is no communication with engine control module (ECM), Airbag system (AB), or occupant detection system (ODS). When fault is occuring, on top of the symptoms listed above, multiple DTCs are stored in various computer modules (CM). Current DTCs as follows: Body control (BIU) - U0073, U0100, U1202. Power steering(P/S) - C2543, U0073, U0100. Multi-function display U1201. Note when fault occurs DTCs and symptoms will sometimes varry depending on how interupted data signal is on CAN BUS. Some past DTCs are stored related to issue, however these DTCs are moot as then cannot be diagnosed in a past fault condition. All DTCs indicated a CAN fault of no communication with ECM or Airbag systems. Sometimes data can be sent from CM, however during fault all communication (ability to "talk" to CMs) is disrupted. Based upon time stamp and trip counter of current DTCs list tech proceeded with diagnosis of most recently set DTC U0073. Note all DTCs eventually lead to same diagnostic path. Inspected resistance of of network at DLC connector, pins 6 & 14, which indicates 90 ohms of resistance (spec is ~60ohms during normal operation). Voltage at pin 6 to ground is 0v, pin 14 to ground 2.6v (using DVOM voltage should avergae to 2.5v on both pin 6 and 14, lab scope would show more fluction of signal between 1.5-3.5v) Using CAN diagnositc table (bubble chart) provided by Subaru, the location of the CAN BUS fault is isolated to CAN BUS High data line around junctions near "6" and "7" on the provided chart. The junctions located in the area are indentified at connectors B258 and B247 for CAN High data lines. Seeing as there is no communication to ECM and AB CM (at B258), however communication is possible to P/S (at B247), this supports the fault point of between B258 and B247 or at junction B258. With P/S, AB, and ECM disconnected, CAN BUS High isolated from P/S to ECM, when the fault is occuring tech found 3 ohms of resistance in the segment of the CAN BUS High (spec ~0.2ohm) [B450#6 to B137#19 3ohms]. While monitoring resistance from P/S to ECM, tech found resistance would change as the harness was manipulated (moved/shaken) the resistance would intermittently change. To rule out fault of CAN BUS Low tech measured from DLC pin 14 to ECM pin 18 and resistance is within spec at 0.2ohms. [B137#18 to B40 #14]. To verifiy a CM is not interupting, or pulling down CAN BUS voltage, tech disconnected one CM at a time to see if communication comes back to ECM or AB, which it did not. All tests further supports a fault in the CAN BUS network at J/C B258 (bulkhead wiring harness). Unfortunately based upon the location of J/C B258 it is no easily accessible, as it's located behind the dash and heater core assembly, so deductive reasoning must be used to isolate and diagnosis this fault location. Listed below are the most significate and relevant electrical checks performed, as well as DTC descriptions. This diagnosis and findings have been verified with Subaru Techline and the DSQM of SOA. In my expereienced opionion, it's my conculsion, The only way to guarantee a proper and accurate fix for this CAN BUS fault is replacement of the bulkhead wiring harness. Replacement of ECM can be starting point, however diagnositcs does not support this will resolve the fault. All diagnostics provided by Subaru are just starting points and analytical reasoning must be used for final decision. See attached documents and media on inspection for further supporting information. Note the vehicle is not equipped with keyless access CM, remote start CM, (separate) yaw rate/g sensor, auto headlight leveler CM, eyesight camera CM, or (auto) A/C CM. Aftermarket electronics installed include (ruled out as influence or cause of fault) radio, LED high beams, LED low beams with wiring harness, LED light bar, audio amplifier. Possible subwoofer and speakers installed, however unable to verify without removal of items in back of vehicle or door card removal. DTC: U0073 - Control module communication bus off U0100 - Lost communication with ECM/PCM "A" U1201 - CAN-HS counter abnormal C2543 - Error passive Checks (at time of fault, performed with CAN BUS isolated): B40#6-#14 - 90ohms B40#6 to ground - 0v B40#14 to ground - 2.6v B40#14 to B137#18 - 0.3ohms B40#6 to B137#19 - 3ohms B450#6 to B137#19 - 3ohms B450#7 to B137#18 - 0.2ohms B247 to B137#19 - 3ohms

I'm getting quotes from 4 different Subaru specialty shops so hopefully something better comes up. The dealership has been highly reluctant to provide any root cause or photos of anything other than where the harness is visible without removing anything. All of their causes seem highly unlikely and the entire company has been dismissive and disinterested. If I could find better documentation on replacing the harness in this vehicle I might attempt it myself at this point.

Update: I spoke with the mechanic today, although not the one that did the work. They are no longer blaming aftermarket electronics and are saying that the issue is most likely in a plug in the harness behind the heater core. They say the most likely cause of failure is water or vibrations from driving 140xxx miles... They then proceeded to tell me the network is very sensitive, but that this is a 1 in a million failure. Could coolant from the heater core lines disconnect make it down there when the engine was pulled multiple times? I still think they ripped. In the harness replacing the motor and caused this. They said the issue was either a bad module or wiring, but modules were ruled out because unplugging the modules did not restore communications between them. SOA called this morning to say the vehicle is out of warranty and to offer a $1500 loyalty coupon towards the purchase of a new car. SOA cited the presence of aftermarket electronics as the possible cause again. I told them they had to prove that and they said it was up to me to push the matter if I wanted. I was encouraged to reach out to the dealership again, but there is essentially no protections from the work they did when they replaced the engine block.