Daskuppler

Hello everyone! Me again... yet more problems... 2014 Forester Premium, 141k, with CVT. We took a short drive this morning (90 minutes, 70 miles) and parked the car to wait for the sunrise. When we started the car, the CEL came in and the cruise control light started flashing. There were no driveability issues, but we never got over 20mph. After restarting the car, the CEL was gone and hasn't come back. When I got home, there was one stored code for U0073: control module communication bus A off. Code was cleared, I'll update if it comes back tomorrow. From what I can gather, this is an electrical issue. One forum asked the question of aftermarket accessories installed. I installed a stereo and amp 3 years ago and a light bar over a year ago, no issues until now. No additional modifications beyond LED headlights. Anything I should look at for diagnostics?

I've used some cleaners in the past and it's not changed anything. Maybe I'll try again and let it sit for a while and ride the motorcycle. There's not much rust, but I do live in a snow state so there's likely more than I'm aware of

Hello Everyone, I have a 2002 Impreza TS with approximately 140k in it. For several years now, the fuel gauge has been inaccurate. The gauge shows full and slowly works down as I drive. The low fuel light eventually comes in, but when I fill up, it usually takes around 10 gallons, sometimes it will take 12. I saw a post on NASIOC saying they had used really fine sand paper to sand off corrosion on a couple resistors on the fuel pump assembly, does anyone know if that is the fix for this? Is something else going on? No codes, no driveability issues, and fuel economy is as expected for driving conditions. This is more of a nuisance than anything Cheers

It looks like it had corroded or melted. It wasn't cracked, or brittle. When I touched it kinda sloughed off around the hole, but was still relatively intact beyond that one part.

I had some spare aquarium air hose fittings lying around which happens to be a perfect fit. The Y had disintegrated at the connection for the driver nozzle. Works like a charm. We will see how well it holds up in the cold

Great, thank you! Hopefully the stealership has them for $10 or less per piece 🤣

Hello Everyone, 2014 Forester Premium here. Over the past month or so, the driver side jet has slowly been degrading into a nearly unusable spray pattern. The passenger then started to do the same. I do not see any clogs in the system, fluid reservoir is full, and the pump is working. I did a little bit of research and noticed that the previous generation seems to suffer from connector failures under the cowling. Is this a known issue on the '14-'18 as well? I do notice a small puddle under the driver side on the ground and I can see some fluid inside of the cowling, but I don't know how much of that is fluid running off of the windshield. I'm assuming it slowly failed and the bad spray pattern is due to loss in pressure through a crack or something...I don't even know how that would happen, but it seems to be a thing. I have not had a chance to remove the cowling yet, just seeing if anyone else has had a similar love hat experience with their Subaru. Does anyone else feel like they are introducing themselves to an AA (or similar group) writing these posts? I have posted so much it seems like I have a problem haha

I got the High Performance Gear Oil, it was the only gear oil they sold.

I ended up going to the dealership to get some of their gear oil since it is usually pretty affordable and I could not locate Valvoline's conventional oil unless it was 80w-90 which won't work in Colorado winters. The first dealership didn't have any, that was a surprise. I ended up paying almost $17/qt for Subaru's conventional oil...that stuff got expensive for not being synthetic!

I've seen super tech recommended a few times. I've seen complaints against the cocktail causing premature gear wear, and Amsoil. Seems to be hit and miss (some love it, some hate it). Valvoline conventional and e Supertech seem to be the most readily available conventional oils so I'll likely go with one of those. Thank you!

Hello Everyone, Does anyone have any strong preferences for any oil beyond OEM gear oil for the 5MT? I know synthetics don't work as well and most are pretty expensive in comparison to the Subaru gear oil. I used to run Castrol Syntrax for most of my gear oil applications, but it's pretty much unavailable anymore. I know there's Scotty's Cocktail or something like that, but that's a rediculous amount of work to source everything. I have about 35k on the current gear oil so it's definitely time to change it.

That's definitely at EOL for the transmission. A remanufactured CVT is 6500 for the unitm 8k installed if you don't do it yourself. The valve bodies are a problem, but so is the whole unit. If you're going to do the work, I would just replace the whole transmission. Good luck! For what it's worth, I had a block replaced due to oil consumption. I'm on the 4th block including the original factory block. Two failed ib less than 300 miles due to bad rod bearings. My CVT has 133k on it and is starting to show signs of doom.

Thanks for the input. I thought it was weird they told me to check filtration based on silicon when it should be silica if the air filter is bad, it I don't really know how these things are reported. For what it's worth, the last oil analysis on the original factory block that was burning oil reported 11 for silicon. Normal is apparently 30 and this analysis came in at 49. Could the high number still be break in since there's only a out 15k on the block? The oil was changed once after the first 800 miles. Yes, this vehicle has a bad history. Fortunately the block has a 3 year warranty which will get it to 60-70k miles. I attached the full report in case that helps with anything. 14 FORESTER-230429_230523_065854.pdf

I would plan on a remanufactured transmission. Is it the CVT? How many miles?

Good to know! Intake is still stock so that's a possibility. As far as I can tell, everything is sealed.

Hello Everyone, I recently had an oil analysis done on my 14 forester. Wear metals were high, but it was only the second oil change on the new block. A total of 12k on it at the time of the oil draw. Silicon was 49ppm. Blackstone said check air filter. I am running an AEM Dryflow. These seem to filter equivalent to a paper filter and have good reviews. Is this actually the case, or is the high silicon due to the aftermarket air filter? I pulled the sample when it was warm and unfortunately right at the beginning of the stream. Maybe the timing was the cause of high silicon? The oil had about 11k on it with 1qt added. The additive test came back with a little remaining and said I should not go beyond this for OCI.

Subaru ended up covering the cost of parts. Labor is on me, but I work pretty cheap these days 🤣

Thanks for the input. I had though about downsizing the rims, but I wasn't sure if the brakes would clear. I also don't know that a half inch would make a huge difference, but it would be worth it if you got a good deal on the wheels. I ended up going with the Continentals again but I think we're going to lean on the Xterra a little more to save wear and tear on this car. For reference, the Bf Goodrich tires have pretty bad reviews in the rain, and I would be inclined to believe them based on the tread block design. All of these tires also seem to be fairly poorly constructed for offroad use. I'm sure this is primarily because the market demands a quiet and smooth tire and that just doesn't work with a durable offroad tire. I've had a few tires get those bubbles (I believe the technical name is impact break). I have never experienced that with the Continentals, just cut sidewals but never a failure on the road just loss of structural integrity. I generally try to look at reviews from the tire industries and testing facilities. It can be hard though, and is getting harder due to market schemes, and a new tire/revision every other year. I've gotten pretty good at reading tread patterns and predicting handeling in certain situations, but it's hard when you don't know what the rubber compound is. As a general rule, I find Goodyears to be terrible after about 20k, nothing will come anywhere near it's projected life (especially on a Subaru), Bridgestones don't last, Michellin is overrated though always dependable, and nothing beats BF Goodrich offroad and generally speaking overall handling on the road. That being said, they don't last but they do perform. Everyone has their tales of success with particular tires and everyone gets lucky...and unlucky. Tires and brakes are the two things I never skimp on...on any vehicle. Luckily at least two of these tires will be covered under Discount Tire's Certificate program. I wish the BFG A/T KO2 would fit without modification. Can't beat those dang tires.

Bad water pump? Maybe something dislodged and clogged a line?

It's not that I question your statement. I actually appreciate your brutal honesty. I'm just curious what's actually happening, not that I question if it will fail. What would you buy if you were buying a new car (5 years old or newer)?

Hello Everyone, Does anyone have any experience with the following tires: Continental Terrain Contact BF Goodrich Trail Terrain Toyo Open Country AT III Back story, Colorado's roads are sh*t and I'm tired of buying tires. The goal is to get something a little more durable than the Continental TrueContacts I have been running. While the TrueContacts have fantastic traction in snow, rain, and dry, the sidewalls are garbage. I've had to replace two sets of tires because of sidewall failures. The ideal tire would support a spirited driving style while handling rougher terrain better than a standard street tire. Discount Tire offers the above tires that have more of a dirt oriented terrain, but there's limited information on sidewall thickness and real life experiences. Thoughts? Experiences? Comments? Thanks!

I agree. I'm not about to just order a transmission and put it in, unless there are other signs or codes start to pup up. I know these units are not really serviceable apart from the valve body and oil changes (which I've done every 20k since 40k miles).

I also don't want a half assed car with a bunch of bandaids holding it together. That's a great temporary solution but not a fix.

Plus install

It has 25k hard miles on and was the Subaru blue CVT fluid. Did not smell burnt. And yes, 8k for a replacement. I called two different stealerships; both within $100 of 8k.