Ibreakstuff
-
Posts
540 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Ibreakstuff
-
-
Did you replace the shaft seal on the oil pump as well? (can be a source of air suckage too) What type of oil pressures are you seeing on cold startup and at warm idle?
It is HLA tick most likely, common annoyance on the ea82's. If you are making 10PSI oil pressure for every 1000RPM, everything *should* be fine. But do realize the pressure gauges on the ea82's can be inaccurate, usually reading a bit low. And it is also reading at the pump and not at the heads.
I have had success with seafoam, doing top end treatments and adding a bit of marvel mystery like 100 miles *before* doing an oil change. This can free up gunked up oil supply to the HLA's, as well as the HLA's themselves. If you can isolate the noise to a single bank or HLA it might help the diagnosis as well. HLA's can go bad as well, baddies never pump up and will clackey clack endlessly.
I use google for searching the forum, like so: site:ultimatesubaru.org ea82 hla tick -
And these could be helpful too:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/18385-reading-codes-on-94-loyale-edit-92-not-94/
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/3992-one-more-timehow-do-you-check-ecu-trouble-codes-on-ea82/
Basically you remove the plastic guard under the steering column to view the LED on the ECU. The process of connecting the test cables is listed in the post(s) above. -
Great reference: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47526-subaru-ecu-codes-for-1983-1988/
This still applies to the Loyales
-- 1988 and Later Models With Single-Point Fuel Injection --
CODE PROBABLE CAUSE
11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit
12 Starter Switch or Circuit
13 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit
14 Fuel Injector - Abnormal Output
21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit
23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit
24 Air Control Valve or Circuit
31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit
32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit
33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit
34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit
35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit
42 Idle Switch or Circuit
45 Kick-Down (Detent) Relay or Circuit
51 Neutral Switch Continuously in the On Position
55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit
61 Parking Switch or CircuitI can't recall if you have to connect the test plugs or not with the loyales, I seem to recall my old 90 loyale would show the ECU blinking lights with the key turned on regardless.
-
It's been a wild few years.. 2 kids, 2 house moves, and 2 company acquisitions since I was lurking last. Finally have all my cars and parts in one place again.
Pending projects:
87 RX (ez30d+dr5mt+5lug+H6brakes) (ej22t's have been shelved for a rainy day)88 RX (ea82t+headstuds+slas's+mls headgaskets) ((blew up my last attempt, but I still have enough parts for 2 more builds))
07 WRX (engine rebuild, just forged pistons and headwork)
-
2
-
-
Fuel issue? Clogged fuel filter?
-
Gl10 and rx were the same right ?
Similar but technically no, true RX's are pretty rare. You could get the gl10 package in a wagon even here in the states.
-
Now I'm curious as to how fast my brand new CCR EA82T will go.. stage 2 cams (262*) and ported turbo.. fastest so far was 95 in 4th gear
You people make me wanna do dangerous things..
And by "you peolpe" I mean fellow Subaru lovers (:
The only top speeds I've heard from RXs have been 125mph, but I think that one would beat that
Theoretical top speed of the FT4WD gearbox (including RX's) and stock tire sizes would be around 139 mph, but you would never get there aerodynamically. The laughable thing to add is that my old 1990 Loyale FWD had super long gears, like 143-145 top speed.. But again you would have to be drafting/slip-streaming a supersonic blue whale to achieve those speeds.
Even my 07 WRX is drag limited around 135-137 mph, probably even less now with a huge skid plate and hacked front bumper.
I hope you have Z rated tires.
-
There are 2 forces fighting against you; power limiting speed and drag limiting speed. I wish someone would have made a XT for Bonneville, with it's low co-efficient of drag. But the other EA cars are basically Aero bricks.
Edit: Oh I dodged the real question... I will never admit to driving off the speedo in a bone stock 88 RX (125 mph). Nor will I admit a friend in an STI clocking me at 130 mph. And I will, definitely, never admit to attempting that in Oregon on hwy 95 (55 mph limit).
-
I think the badge engineering really hurt the sales of the BRZ. Including the deal that gave the BRZ lower production numbers and an inflated cost vs the FRS... This was a big part of the reason that I didn't buy one.
Focus RS hatch, yummy. Doubt I would buy one of those either, but the original RS's made damn good rally cars. They had so much turn in, you would get neck strain. -
Following the proper removal process as well I see.
-
1
-
-
I was wrong about the SVX rears then, since the rotors are 5x114.3 you would need the rotors from a 00-04 outback. But you could use the backing plates, calipers (with brackets), and parking brake assembly. Unless you have these already, it may be easier to use regular EJ bits. The SVX rotor hat offset is only different in the front.
As for the fronts.. Chux is correct.. You would probably want to use regular EJ knuckles and the 2pot calipers with 276x24mm rotors. If you go bigger it may require 17" rims.
This post has a ton of good information about rotor sizes, calipers, and part#'s for pads:
-
I should add also, be very careful about the orientation of the backing plate or the trailing arm may block where the parking brake cable exits the backing plate. I ended up thinking about it for a lot longer than it took to fabricate.
-
No, you would still have 5x100 from the XT6 rear hubs. You would only be using the backing plate, caliper, rotor, and ebrake assembly from an EJ car.
Using the EJ (regular or H6) backing plate would give you better brakes and the better parking brake assembly. The center hole in the EJ backing plate is too large and the bolt pattern for that plate is different between EA and EJ.. I personally just cut out and welded the EJ and EA plates to fit.. You also have to drill out 2 holes above the trans/drive shaft tunnel to run the parking brake cables into the cabin.
The alternative would be to use a nissan rear caliper that has the ebrake lever on the caliper itself (like the XT6 front calipers), but you would still need to drill holes in the cabin.
Examples pics of the rear:
-
1
-
-
+1 I taught myself to weld on a 80A flux core welder years ago, probably the most cost effective purchase I have ever made at HF. Even after buying an ACDC tig setup, I still keep the gasless welder around for quick and dirty jobs.
Definitely will cause warping and distortion if you attempt to run beads on something so thin. You can do a thousand spot welds if you have the patience. Or using a big huge piece of copper or alum behind the sheet metal as a heat sink will help tremendously as well.
Flux core welders have their place, if you need something portable or are welding outdoors in the wind... Not much else can beat them. They do leave a dirty fido weld and slag, but the weld should be strong.
-
Easy to do and mostly bolt on (except rear backing plates and parking brake). Basically just search "5 lug swap", there are tons of threads on it. Upfront you can just mount EJ knuckles and struts.. Rear requires a small amount of fabrication.
Edit: Just to elaborate... In the rear, you would need H6 (SVX) backing plates, rotors, calipers, and parking brake assemblies. You would keep the XT6 knuckle, shock, and hub.
-
A uhaul pickup is really cheap, if more than 100 miles it comes out to about 50-60 cents a mile. Transport is 50 bucks a day and comes with trailer brakes.
-
1
-
-
I measured the hole in a 07 wrx rim. It has a small lip/ridge that the plastic center cap snaps into, that lip measures 51.49mm. The actual center bore size is ~56mm, I think this size is the same on most modern subaru rims.
-
1
-
-
You can't partially powdercoat something unfortunately. 2 pack paint would be the hardest thing you could probably apply. Then clear coat the lot to protect it.
Johnno, they did a twin throttle NA, then single throttle supercharger (they cut the inlet manifold to fit the charger, then had the throttle body on the inlet). And it was before autospeed, I can't remember if it was Fast 4s & rotories, or Hot 4s.
I know of a whole Excel for sale with a twin throttle for about $600 unreg, but I figure if I'm going to mod it again later, then I may as well start at a higher point. The crashed Elantra I bought was only $400, and apart from the $1k I spent on the LSD, the only other costs have been about $150 for driveshafts & 3 cartons of beer for the welding.
You can actually mask off areas you do not want to powder coat, but it has to be removed very carefully before baking the part. Like with turbo headers, you can't coat the inside of the tube.. So they just mask it off at the flange.
Edit: There is even high temp tape and silicon plugs specially made for powder coating.
Jeszek, I ment to pull a WRX rim out down from the rack in the garage to measure the center hole. I promise to do this today sometime. I think the center hole will be the same size or very similar on all 90-00's rims.
-
1
-
-
JD2 bender arrives tomorrow, I'll start prototyping ea82 turbo headers asap. The plan for the first header is 2" from the heads, 2" into 1.75" collector, and a 1.75" EJ style up pipe for spool. The first turbo is a cheap TD04L-19T (wrx turbo with a compressor upgrade).
-
They look pretty close to me. We could confirm by measuring the actual hole in the wheel.. I'll pull a WRX rim and measure it later today.
Re Plastidip, it will flake off over time, on rims, but you can just keep respraying it. It will help protect rims from rock damage if you have enough layers built up and it can be easily removed. If you buy online it could be shipped too.
You can totally powder coat polished aluminum, but you definitely have to strip that clear coat for a good adhesion. Most would recommend bead blasting or scuffing the surface also.-
1
-
-
Noticed also, my wife's outback (02 vdc h6 sedan) has center caps that could fit also:
-
1
-
-
I like them, they look a lot like the 90's era jdm subaru rims. I would keep them silver, but would have to see it on the car vs the hot yellow paintjob.
Pretty sure subaru wrx caps would fit, like from a 06-07 wrx. They are plastic, I'll measure one for you.
edit: went and grabbed one of my wrx center caps..
-
1
-
-
Replace the radiator cap first, make sure its from Subaru too. This fixed a weird overflow/bubbling issue I had with our h6 vdc outback.
-
248,555 2002 Outback H6 Sedan
160,022 1987 RX
130,321 1988 RX
67,540 2007 WRX
RIP cars:
~88,000 1988 GL10 (subaru heaven)
~195,000 1990 Loyale (subaru heaven)
~290,000+ 1993 Impreza (has new owner, still running on original motor)
RX Turbo Stock vs TechWorks Dyno Results Big Pics
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted · Edited by Ibreakstuff
If its a TWE, it should be 1 solid piece header (uppipe is part of the header).
TWE ran the same turbo themselves and claimed to have made a ea82 wagon faster than stock bugeye wrx's in the 1/4 mile.. with these mods:
TWE Stainless steel header with merged collector
Top mounted intercooler (Saab 9-3)
TWE Modded intake with stainless mandrel bent intake.
TWE 2.5" mandrel bent down pipe with high flow cat (Random Tech) and TWE 2.5" Stainless Cat back with HO stainless muffler.
Auxillary injector ....pressure controlled, pulse width modulated. TWE fabricated.
Garret GT17 dual ceramic ball bearing housing Turbo running 15~16 pounds of boost.
Manual 5 speed conversion with 3.90 diffs. LSD rear
(I don't doubt this but as someone who has blown up a few ea82t's above 20psi, it's kind of a question of how long will it last)