turbosubarubrat
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Posts posted by turbosubarubrat
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Did you have to source those yourself or was the shop able to do it?
They supply both and install. I just go through the mobile buisnesses since they cost the same and they drive to your house so you don't have to leave your car somewhere. If you do that cut out your chrome strips carefully with a razor blade so they stay intact they're bad at taking them out but good at installing them.
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You can still get regular front second gen windshield gaskets and a windshield for $220 plus or minus installed depending on who you go through. I had 5 done in the past couple of years the gaskets feel soft and smell fresh.
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I would be interested in a front and rear coupe gaskets. You should also post this on the subaru hardtop club and old school subaru group on facebook.
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It's just torsion bar flex and there's nothing you can do to change that.
I wouldn't say that unless you want to keep the rig bone stock. You can swap 3rd gen suspension under it so it has rear struts which would be fairly easy to do when doing a lift kit. You could also swap to a ej suspension or put in solid axles.
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pic clearly shows two door. Every true RX I've seen is two door, I think that's the only option:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Leone
There are other turbo coupe variants but I don't think they are an "RX"
There are 4 doors but they are 10 times harder to find than a 2 door. Defiantly save the rx or at least get the rare parts off it. The lsd rear diff is worth $200-500 depending on how bad somebody wants it. Transmission with the linkages, activators, wiring, and diff lock switch would get about $250-400 depending on who wants it. Body kit i have know idea i've seen one sell for like $350 though. Rear disk brake conversion is worth $150.
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Get your codes read. It sounds like a dirty iac (idle air controller) or bad hose going to it from the intake boot.
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You can get them from the dealer still but don't know the part number.
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If there is a rx. Grab the manual awd d/r transmission with center diff lock , lsd rear diff, rear disks, and body kit. If there are 5 speed d/r's grab those. Any 70's stuff save it's getting hard to find. Brat stuff to grab roll bars, brush guards, rear seats / headrests / seat belts, tail gates, tail lights, doors, center headlamps, grills, head light bezels.
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I haven't dropped my tank yet but several times now my car has run out of fuel with 1/4 tank of fuel left in it!
I had run it down much farther in the past so I know this is a new problem.
My gauge works fine as does the fuel light.
I have pulled the sending unit the last time it ran out of fuel and sure enough there was 1/4 tank left just as the gauge read.
I can't see any pickup tubes in the tank when I shine a flash light in there.
Is there another removable port that contains the pickup / return lines on this tank or am I better off to just get a used tank?
Used tanks in the wreckers are hard to come by. They either punch a hole in it or they always seem to throw the wheel stands under the tank to hold the car up which smashes the tank in.
Thanks.
I have 2 or 3 tanks if you end up needing one and they sell them new still. If this is your ej swapped car it could be the lack of gas tank baffles. I forget whether all ea82 tanks came with baffles in the tank or not, but since it was a carb'd ea82 it could of not came with them. If that is the case while driving the tank sloshing around could cause it to run out of fuel resulting in it to dying. Still assuming that's the case it could be fixed by adding a surge tank.
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On a 82 brat i had the drivers front piston wouldn't screw back in so i took the caliper off and put it in a vice. Then i gave it a few good hits with a hand sledge and a piece of rod. It hit back in pretty good so i put it back on and everything worked like it should.
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Look at ea82t setups people have gone to distributorless ignition setups with them.
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In some rigs i take the lock cylinder apart and take out the tumblers besides the one that holds it together so any key or screw driver will work in it. If you do that i would make a anti theft measure like a switch for your starter or fuel pump so it wont run.
There is also these keys on ebay that look close to the old ea82 keys http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Genuine-OEM-Subaru-LIGHTED-Master-Key-Blank-Impreza-Legacy-RS-GT-SVX-RX-/201206144031?fits=Model%3AGL-10&hash=item2ed8d21c1f:g:cNsAAOSwF1dUUZ2B&vxp=mtr
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1- would an 8x70 or some other 8 lug rim fit? I know it's not intended just curious.
2- if I put the ea82 5spd what do I need to do the 5 lug swap? The non turbo, because to my understanding it's geared better, question mark?
1. No only other lug pattern that would work with stock hubs is 6x5.5 by either drilling 4 more holes in the hubs or 2 in the rims.
2. There are plenty of write ups for 5 lug swaps. Type ea82 5 lug swap into google. Transmission depends on how your rig is setup and what you plan on doing with it.
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You keep getting ones for ea82's or ea82t's. if you get a set for a ea81 all the wires would be right besides the coil since it would be too short. When i replaced a set on ea81t wagon i had to piece together 2 sets of ngk's.
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I would double check the advice on here about EA81 rear main seals, since I haven't owned one...
But with all the other Subaru engines I've worked on, the rule has been that you never touch the factory rear main seal, because they almost never fail, and the replacement will always leak after install.
All the ones i've done have leaked at least a little bit since all the ea81's are 28-36 years old now. I have a friend that got me all the factory seals for a ea81 i just resealed for pretty cheap. I don't see the logic behind they always leak unless it was installed it wrong or scratched the crank so it eats the seal.
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That's what transmission I have right now, fyi the low range is disappointing compared to the standard dual range. But I'm still using the same driveline no need to modify it to fit at least.
It wont be for me since my 82 coupe came with a 2wd 3at. I'm converting it over to stock height of a 4wd coupe but with the rx awd trans and 5 lug parts. In a lifted rig you want a 3.9 5 speed d/r since it has the lowest gearing without going to ej trans or building a custom one. A ej trans should fit in your rig really easy since you probably already have the turbo 25 spline axles.
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By serviceable do you mean grease them? I put in grease-able u-joints in my hatch without any problems. All the ea81 and ea82 drive shafts i have seen have the clips you hit out then you can press out the u-joint.
I see what you guys mean about how the ea82 u-joints are not serviceable now since they don't have clips. While waiting for my rear diff to drain on my hatch i took one joint off a ea82 drive line i had laying around without much fuss. You use a bench press so it breaks off the staked metal bits then hit the caps the rest of the way out with a small chisel. I'm probably going to buy 3 staked u-joints off rock auto for $7.34 apiece plus shipping to rebuild the drive line for my 82 coupe, or get a 1 piece made since i'm going to be running a rx d/r awd box in it.
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I'm confused about what your asking especially since the picture doesn't work. The factory carb spacer?
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I actually find more hydro blocks than solids where i'm at probably because all the solids got swapped out or the cars got scrapped. I've had 4 solids and something like 15 hydros. Only other difference difference i could find is for the second inspection/access hole for the bellhousing/case cover for the ea81t.
Auto solid lifter block
hydro block
ea81t block
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Just curious, could I get a legacy MC on an ea81 without changing the booster?
I just put on a legacy non abs 1" master cylinder on my hatchback with the factory booster. I capped off 2 ports since it had four and i wanted to keep the hill holder. If you haven't added a proportioning valve yet i would do that too.
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The engine block is specific to the EA81T and you will lose at LEAST your knock sensor mounting boss if you use a carb'd block.
That isn't true most of the ea81 hydo lifter blocks came with the boss and it's already threaded. They even have all the same mounting holes for the power steering pump off a ea81t to fit on. From my findings a ea82 pump with bracket should bolt right on but haven't got one to try it since i have a ea81t pump and had a ea82 block. The only difference i have found on a ea81t block is the cam and the pistons.
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This may be a dumb question, but can I get to the front main and rear main seals without taking the heads off?
No need to take the heads off to get the main seals. The front main you need to take off the crank pulley with a 22mm to get to it it.The rear main is behind the flywheel. You should also get your flywheel resurfaced since it's probably glazed.
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Not entirely sure on terminology but they are "stack" fit.? I've found several people that have replaced them with u joints with the inside clips but technically speaking they aren't serviceable
By serviceable do you mean grease them? I put in grease-able u-joints in my hatch without any problems. All the ea81 and ea82 drive shafts i have seen have the clips you hit out then you can press out the u-joint.
can an ea81 and drivetrain swap into generation one brat?
in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
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Mr Roper you got Kevins old brat (forget what his username is). There is a build thread some where on here about it.