turbosubarubrat
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Posts posted by turbosubarubrat
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My hatch has the same setup but i have a 6" lift and 1 1/2" rear wheel spacers. The wheel spacers made my track front and near perfectly the same. Rides great with new shocks, struts, and springs. Springs are a little stiff but rides way better than many lifted 4wds.
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If you already have or can get a fat case bell housing with a side mount starter then you can put in a ea81 or ea82 2wd 5 speed. I'm pretty sure you can swap in a lsd on a ea82 5 speed 2wd. I've seen it done on the 4wd and awd drives which have the same front half so i don't see a problem.
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You can find a nice one for around $2000 anymore than that look for one with a engine swap.
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I just used a deadblow, scrapper, and a pry bar that had a good angle to hit chips off with. Then shop vac'd the chips up as i went along. Just be glad it's a brat since the rest of the 2nd gens have 3 times as much. There are videos of people using dry ice with good results but it doesn't take too long to chip it out. To cut out the pan a sawzall would work fine and so would cut off disks with a grinder. With a zawzall you don't have to worry about etching glass.
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The sound deadening traps moisture from leaky window seals and rusts the pan out on these. On my hatch i slowly took out the sound deadening, primed it, and used herculiner on the whole thing. If you wanted to add sound deadening i would get the foil sticky type to put in after bed lining the pan. When cutting the rust out go at least a inch past where the rust is at; i would go more to be safe. If you don't there is still rust in the metals pores and will show up again a couple months later.
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Napa was the one of the few places i found that could actually get it and didn't charge hundreds for it. When i got mine 8 months back it was $72.
Forgot to mention i was talking about the heater core here. I wouldn't be to concerned about the blower resistors as long as they all work. It's easy enough to change in the car if it starts to go out.
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That's crappy set of taps if they strip in aluminum. If you didn't drill it out to far you could drill it out and tap it to a bigger size bolt or put in a helicoil. I had a ea81 someone f'd up the hole completely by drilling it out in 3 spots to get the bolt end out. It ended up making a hole about the size as a dime. I ended up cleaning the hole out really good and using alumiweld rod with a oxy propane setup to fill it in then used a die grinder to make the surface flat.
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Napa was the one of the few places i found that could actually get it and didn't charge hundreds for it. When i got mine 8 months back it was $72.
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If i get time today i'll take a picture for you comparing the two different pulleys.
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The grooves are spaced out differently to accommodate the power steering, ac, water pump, and alternator. I've been playing with either putting on a ea81t or ea82 power steering pump on a regular ea81, but i'm going to have to make a bracket since the spacing is completely different.
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If its for your ea81t that crank pulley is turbo specific.
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If your stuck on carbs stick in a ej25 99 plus block with a set of phase 1 ej22 heads and delta cams. Use a early ford escort escort distributor and a 4 barrel carb or a set of weber down drafts. The 99 ej25 is 165hp stock add the 2.2 heads and cams is somewhere between 185-210hp fuel injected.
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I pulled apart a ea82 that wouldn't turn over after a certain point. Turned out it had so much carbon build up that 2 pistons were hitting the heads.
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Okay where are you located I'm in se Portland
I'm out in Sandy OR so not to far. Don't have any thing planned tomorrow so if you wanted to pick one up you could. Sending you a pm.
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So what's up with that Rx trans? and how much for the awd with diff lock?
A key way came out of the transmission not sure where it came off though. It started turning all the way over once i put a clutch disk on it and it spit the key way out. I want $150 for the awd with diff lock and $250 for that d/r 4wd. I'll probably keep the rx trans since i have another one and i will eventually probably end up using it to build a custom transmission.
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Can i just remove the fuse in fuse box to deactivate the ecm?
Can't remember if there is anything else ran off that fuse but its only 2 electrical connectors. The ecm doesn't do anything since you took off the hitachi carb and most if not all the emissions equipment. I would just unbolt the ecm and get rid of it since it's just extra stuff you don't need.
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And what will I be losing?
That one is a 85-86 3.7 dual range 4wd. You loose it being all wheel drive and having a center diff to lock. Same gear ratio so no need to change the rear diff. I have the same one that i would sell for less that has 158 thousand miles on it
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Helicoil or thread insert. With either use loctite. Should be able to get either from any local auto parts store.
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Does anyone know what the ECS light is on the dash? I recently did a weber swap on my 1984 Subaru DL. Var runs better and stringer than ever. My only concern is that afther a while of running it (15 minues or so) a ECS light comes on. Is this anything serious what could it be and how do i get rid of it. I never had any lights come on before the swap. Thanks
Unplug the ecm bolted to the steering column. No need for it anymore.
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Hmmm... What a shame.... I think I could get it for maybe $500, trying to get a goog engine for less would be difficult.
I also was thinking about someday getting an XT6, but after what you guys have said, maybe not.
Parts for all these less common vehicles are hard to get, some worse than others. Could not find new tranny mounts for my brat, so I had to rig my own separate tranny "stabilizer" I guess I would call it.
For my brat, I can get front rotors for $20 through regular store parts, but the rear drums are hard to find and like $85 or so.
Thanks for the detailed warnings, I guess I will pass on this one opportunity.
I got transmission mounts for a 86 ea81 hatch back at Orieilys a year back.
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+1 great engine they run forever and are reliable if you know what you're doing but the timing components alone are $400 for a kit and other parts are hard to come by/pricey.
an EJ22 would be worth waiting for.
Or non existent. The guy i know works for ssi and can't even find a tensioner new.
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Show more pics. I have a couple different transmissions you could swap in. I have a 3.7 d/r 4wd, 3.7 awd with diff lock, and a rx d/r awd with diff lock. I need to play with the rx transmission some since i just picked it up and it acts like its locking up when you turn the input shaft even in neutral. As in locking up i mean you can't turn the input shaft all the way be cause it hits something solid. I'll steam clean it and let you know.
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would it go all of a sudden like that though?
Yes
i need a 85 ea82 engine does anyone in oregon have one
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Just swap on your carb'd intake and the distributor to the spfi block. The spfi pistons are high compression so you gain some power from that.