turbosubarubrat
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Posts posted by turbosubarubrat
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How recently did you replace the axles? Not saying you did it but in the past some people on here have put turbo 25 spline axles. In that case the roll pin broke because they have a bigger spline. I would check that the axles are still together and not busted so they free turn. You could of stripped a hub but you should of also been hearing grinding. I highly doubt anything broke in the transmission with a ea82.
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You've both misunderstood my question, I know where the switch is, but which light does that switch illuminate?
That switch lights up the 4wd on the dash. The switch on the transmission lights up the low.
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Dibs on the hatch rear seat if its in okay shape. I didn't pull anything off that wagon since i already have way to much stuff but gave it a glance over to see if any of the hard to find parts where still there.
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Interesting. As far as the jump in HP is concerned though, here is a post from 2007 that states what I was saying. The HP gains come from the introduction of bigger valves. Those were introduced in 1983. So the hydro and solid motors do produce the same HP as long as they have the larger valves.
From GD "All 83+ engines were large-valve. Solid or Hydro - doesn't matter." from this thread- http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/79317-ea81-big-or-small-valve-head/?hl=%2Bhydro+%2Bsolid+%2Blifter&do=findComment&comment=660522
So what I am trying to determine now is, are there any real benefits of a hydro motor other than not having to adjust the valves every 15k miles? What I am thinking is use a solid lifter motor with large valve heads and a hydro cam, since they are a better candidate for a cam grind.
Had a 84 brat with the original engine that had the smaller valves only 98k on odometer but the brat was beat. I have 3 sets of solid lifter heads just sitting. Some gains for a hydro block are they have extra castings so you can mount a ea82 or ea81t power steering pump on them. I think solids are the way to go on that kind of build too since you can fine tune them until there quiet. I went to all 3 of the pick n pulls some what close yesterday there is a 84 wagon at the sherwood location. It's tan with tan interior. It remember the passenger side fender being in good condition can't remember about the drivers. It had a uncut factory radio and tape deck console in good shape i just didn't need another extra or i would of grabbed it.
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I just use a grinder wrench that has 2 pins. It works pretty good considering you don't have to change brakes very often. If i want to get fancy i could cut off the head and weld a socket to it to make it go faster with a ratchet. At harbor freight they have a little cube that does the same thing for a 3/8 ratchet not sure if it will work on these or not but they're less than $10.
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From what I understand, there is no HP difference between the hydro and solid motors. The HP difference is with the small valve and large valve heads. The HP difference is only 1HP. What I am concerned about is the lifter noise. From what I've read, the hydro motor is quieter when stock, but with shaved heads and a cam grind, it can be quite loud. I wonder if the solid lifter motor has the same issue since the valves are adjustable.
Straight from GD http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/13863-gen-1-ea81-hp-difference/ about the hp difference between the two. You can adjust the valve clearance on the hydro's as long as you know how to do it. It's covered in the 84 fsm that covers ea81's and ea81t's. I did it on a 83 turbo wagon that i resealed after the previous owner left the engine in the back of the car. For the higher horsepower ea81 builds i've seen people have stuck with the solid lifters. If you want more power out of the ea81 stick some ea82 spfi pistons in it, ea82 intake, hydro heads, and some porting. If your looking for parts for it Matt at ssi (works work rick) is your go to guy. He can get you anything you need for a ea81.
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I forget what the horsepower difference is but it's something like 10hp. The hydro heads also have bigger valves. If you wanted to you could use hydro heads with the solid lifters. Keep a eye out for a ea82 carb'd intake they bolt right to the ea81 and have better air flow for the weber. I'm pretty sure i've seen this brat around Sandy before you bought it.
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Nothing besides not having to replace the fuel pump and fuel lines. The tank has baffles in it unlike a regular ea81 car so you don't have to add a surge tank like some people do.
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There is a ea81 on craigslist if you need a new hydraulic lifter block. http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/5649276882.html
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I am definitely not with the facebook crowd. How does one go about registering for this event? Or can you register day of?
They will eventually get the page up to where you can pre buy tickets off the link posted for both the show and camping.
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Whats up with the rear axles with u-joints? All the 1st gens i've worked on just have the the dual doj's. Mostly brats but i've been under a couple stage 1 and 2 wagons.
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I use royal purple in my lsd rear diff because of the friction modifier which worked noticeably better than some other brands i've used. I've been using carquests gear oil by the gallon without any problems in 4 and 5 speeds which was fairly cheap. Never have had a problem with super tech, castrol, valvoline, or napa brand either they all work the same. During the winter you should go with a lighter oil to see if that helps.
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What about the window seals between the rear and door windows?
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http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/5625536370.html His pics don't show the typical problem areas you would want pics off but it does look pretty good. Tailgate isn't rusted so that's a good sign.
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It has to do with emissions i would just block it off. That's what i've done on ea81's and ea82's. From what i understand it has do with the exhaust recirculation system to burn off fuel vapor left after combustion.
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I've thought about making the diff lock cable operated on a rx trans i'm sticking in a 82 coupe. I would imagine you could do the same to activate the 4wd on this.
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Why do carpet when you could just have a actual rubber bed liner that you cut to fit and don't have to worry about getting wet. I would either do that or put in high quality spray in bed liner.
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Thanks, I walked away thats what matters. Heck I even drove it home.... its been a hard week, had to cover it in the garage can hardly stand to look at it. It could be fixed, it was worse off the first time around, but with rust creeping in everywhere, needing an drivers A pillar, a left side and front clip, its just time to move on.
Thanks, glad it gave you some inspiration. Not sure that my next brat will be a crazy build, but my wagon might get there soon. Please do keep an eye out. I know we have to drive my sister to portland late this summer, hoping I can pick a new one up then, and drive or tow it back I don't care if it has mechanical problems, just no rust is the big thing,
Portland Oregon? If so might get to see you again. I search daily for cheap ones and will let you know if i find one that's decent. There is a bunch of nice ones on now for 4500+ on craigslist.
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I'll send him this on facebook.
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You could take yours off and bring it into a radiator shop to get fixed.
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Question if you have the taller springs does that eliminate the need for a spacer in the strut tower?
Depends on how much you want to lift it and how often you want to change cv's.
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I had to cut 3 coils off a set of tempo springs to get them to fit. What car is this? If its a 1982 then don't get struts for the rear they have a torsion bar. It will make the rear extremely stiff. If you meant ea82 then you will be fine replacing the struts.
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At one time I remember finding front strut inserts on ebay.. But I dont think they come up very often...
XT6 2.7L Engine in a 1983 Brat ?!? Anybody ever do this?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Its been done and isn't worth it. Timing components are extremely expensive for this motor and hard to get. I know someone that has a low mile one and he has about $600 in idlers and other timing components into it. A ej25 puts out more power and is more reliable. If you must put a 6 cylinder in it put a put in a eg or ez. Not sure about the ez's engines but with a eg33 you could put in a toyota bellhousing adapter and run it rwd. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/85144-wanting-to-do-something-different-to-my-brumby/