mikaleda

You could clean your MAF sensor, you have to use MAF sensor cleaner IIRC.

Finally got snow around here, got close to two feet in the past couple days. Finally get to try my new tires out.

Empi is no longer in business they were taken over by USA axels. That being said you can still get old warehouse stock alot of the time. I just bought a set for my Subaru about a year and 10,000 miles ago and have had zero issues. I'm also fairly hard on axels as well

The only thing that you haven't ruled out would be the ignition control module. About $10 at most junkyards

Thus doesn't explain why the original cluster isn't working. I have a feeling something else is wrong. Have you checked all the fuses? Edit. Just reread, sounds like your plug is where the problem is. Was it damaged while pulling the old cluster? Did it click back in completely when reinserted.

That's what the straw is for.

A little squirt of wd40 makes a big difference when pulling any plastic connector apart. I have found most all of subarus connecters are a PITA to disconnect.

That's a good sighn, I've had these not come off with a 3/4 breaker bar before.

You'll need to pull the seat. Then you should be able to carefully pry the door panel off.

I suggest you find a shop that will pull it off with their impact. It may cost $15, but its really easy to strip these nuts off and then its a real PITA. I had les scwab do this for me once before I bought my new 1/2" impact.

Possible the evap canister is damaged

Don't mind me, I'm just interested in this as well.

Exactly why you should always try and keep your tank above 1/4 helps keep the pump cool, I know it works wonders with Chevy's infomas fuel pumps.

Good thread I had never heard of this before. Defiantly worth the read.

Seems like most people have good luck with the cheap chinese ones. At $6 compared to $40 I'd be willing to give it a shot, they are fairly easy to change.

I use photobucket, but any picture hosting site will work. Once you upload it to your hosting site copy the image code and paste that in your reply and it will post your pic.

I don't hit the ball joint, I use a pry bar to put pressure on the joint and smack the control arm with a hammer. Never had a failure cause by this and I have seen some really rusty front ends. Works good for tie rod ends too. And I used to work in a service center 37 miles down a highway that was constantly sprayed with mag cloride, so I've seen a lot of rusty subarus.

Also, never try to pull the joint from the hub when you replace these, pull the joint from the control arm. Much easier and I've never had this fail me, I live in a rust prone area, unless its really bad I've never had an issue doing it like this. This way you don't need to worry about messing up your alignment.

Can you get a picture of it? That sounds like your problem.

Check for tourque bind, turn in tight circles and should take little to no gas. Warm it up drive it around and then pop the coolant resiviour and look for bubbles a sure sign of a head gasket problem. Not real common, but possible. If its an MT get it up to speed and see if it makes any grinding noises is 4th or 5th and of course check the gear oil level/color. CV axels, check the boots and listen for clicking noises when turning. Just read its an AT so your pretty good there, may have the typical slow engament issue. No biggie deal search this forum about it, should be lots of posts, from what I read trans x seems to work well.

Possible its a fuse, but I would think everything would be dead. Couldn't hurt to check your fuses though

I beleive so.

If the charge light circuit in the cluster isn't connected that can cause your alternator to not charge. The only thing I can think would cause an issue like this is a burnt out cluster or dirty connections.

The ones that are real bad I tend to soak in ATF Acetone for a week or so before I do them. A cheap spray bottle and a quart of ATF and acetone is about $20 and will really break stuff loose.

I don't see why it wouldn't be compatible, even my harbor freight scanner is compatible with all subies up to 2011 (the year I bought it). I would suggest buying it through a supplier that has a good return policy just in case it doesn't work.