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JEBalles

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Everything posted by JEBalles

  1. Yeah, that was my only idea was the axle. Maybe it's moving around in it's mount which could cause it to be intermittent? Is there anyway to check the axles? And if I decide it is them, should I replace the whole assembly? The only thing that makes me think that it's not the axle is that it does shake a lot. That's why I used the diesel analogy for the feeling, because it feels like a large mass (such as the engine) is rocking around in the front of the car. I'm just not sure if the axle can cause that.
  2. Just based on my experience with other shaky engines. When my diesel would get air in the fuel lines, it would feel like it's about to shake off it's mounts and it's a similar feeling. And it seems more load dependent than speed dependent. I got the car over the summer and it had been sitting before then, so I have no idea the last time it got a tune up. Same goes for the age of the ignition coil. Is that something that could do it? Like an intermittent spark issue?
  3. '89 GL wagon with dual-range 5-speed and SPFI EA82, I forgot to mention
  4. So Ru has recently developed a problem that I can't explain. It first occurred when I was driving about 85 in fifth gear and the engine (I think) started shaking worringly violently. It appeared to be related to throttle position and if I popped her into neutral, it went away. Pulled over and revved the engine some-nothing, felt great. Got back on the highway and kept it at 65 until I got home and was fine. Water temp, oil pressure all fine. City driving is fine. Driving again on the highway, this time on some hills as well. Started out fine, took the hills like a champ. Then the shaking came back, again intermittently. The only way I can describe the shaking is it feels like driving a diesel that has air in the lines. I'm not sure if a gasser feels the same way and I'm not sure if there was any power loss, but then again, I think I tend to let off the throttle if it starts doing it. Does anyone have any idea? I'm at a loss
  5. I looked around the fuel separator and fuel pump and didn't see any leaking gas with the engine on or off. Going along with my observation that the smell is more potent with a full tank, it's also less potent or non-existent on the high way, which might point to something having to do with the gas sloshing on turns when it's full. Are there seals on top that could be gone? Such as a fuel sender seal?
  6. Hmm, I doubt it. It hasn't been modified in any other way, so I doubt that was done to it. Any other ideas as to what could be causing this?
  7. 1989 GL wagon 4x4 5-speed. I assumed the front diff was just an open diff, but I notice when backing out of the driveway, for example, the car slows down much quicker than expected once I cut the wheel. And when turning on a wet surface, I can hear the tire screeching. It's like driving with 4wd on, but much less severe. My fuel economy and brakes are fine, so I don't think it's a stuck caliper or bearing issue. Is there a chance that I have a locking diff or LSD and not know?
  8. Another update: after checking the resistance of the termosensor (including wiping on the actual sensor and cleaning the electrical contacts), it's started behaving more or less how it should. Could this just have been a case of dirty contacts??
  9. I'm not sure about the wires. I couldn't find anything identifying on them and they look fine to me. I don't know what a bad spark plug wire looks like though. And how do I measure if I have a vacuum leak? Do I just hook up a vacuum gauge to any vacuum line?
  10. Well, I checked the resistance for the coolant thermosensor: in spec. How do I check the wires and distributor cap? And I guess I'm just gonna replace the air and fuel filter for good measure.
  11. My '89 GL Wagon with the SPFI EA82 seems to struggle a little on acceleration when the engine is cold. It also is harder to start when cold, 1-2 sec. of cranking vs. immediate start when warm. That doesn't bother me, but could be connected. If I accelerate slowly, it's fine. At speed it's fine. When warm, runs great. If I try to romp on it at all when it's cold, it hesitates and bucks. So far, I've disconnected the EGR, cleaned the MAF, fixed the timing and replaced the plugs. My next target is the coolant thermosensor. Wires look fine, I cleaned the connections with electronic connection cleaner. I'll try it tomorrow to see if that did anything, but I doubt it. Any ideas? Replace the sensor next? I plan on testing the resistance next week.
  12. I don't think it's an exhaust leak. I'm getting good fuel economy and plugs indicate I'm running lean. And it might be my imagination, but it seems like the smell is more potent the more the tank is full, which makes me feel it's definitely associated with the tank. I'm going to look for the fuel separator. Are there other seals or places I can check like a fuel pump or something? And where do I get a new fuel separator, if that's the issue?
  13. What the heck? I searched for that exactly and nothing came up Oh well, thanks guys.
  14. If I check my ECM light with the green plugs connected and the key in the on position and the engine off, I get five quick flashes, indicating a trouble code 5. I can't find this code anywhere. Does it just mean the system if fine?
  15. I also had this problem. Plugging my EGR valve helped significantly. Not perfect, but much better. I still have the issue when I have it in gear and idling (such as in slow moving traffic) the car bounces around, as if it's missing every now and then and it switches to the wheels driving the engine, then immediately back to the engine driving the wheels, which can make for a pretty uncomfortable drive in those conditions.
  16. So, I have been observing some hesitation/stumbling/lack of power on acceleration and a check engine light. Reads code 34 (EGR valve). After doing some reading and tests, it doesn't appear to be a vacuum leak and the valve moves fine. This site says if it opens too soon or too much, it can cause these issues: http://www.automotiveforums.com/t164450-what_is_egr_valve_and_symptoms_of_faulty.html Now, I plugged the vacuum hose to the EGR valve with a golf tee. Engine runs significantly better. Now, apparently, with the EGR permanently close, this can cause knock due to the now-higher temperatures in the combustion chamber. I'm not enthused about spending 70 bucks on a new EGR valve, but I don't want to cause the engine to start knocking, nor do I want to live with the awful performance. Is there a switch I can replace, or do I have to replace the whole valve?
  17. This helped, I didn't know about the LED. I got EGR valve (code 34) with nothing connected, EGR valve and O2 sensor (code 32) with the white memory plugs connected, and 5 with the green test mode connectors. The only place I find 5 is here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=121822 which implies that it's good. It says here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 that a dealership technician can perform dynamic tests. What does that mean? And can either a bad EGR valve or O2 sensor affect performance? Or are they only emissions related?
  18. Sorry to bring up a dead thread. I've used the search function and I still can't actually find out how to read the codes. I see the plugs in the engine compartment on the firewall. My light stays on once I start the car. I tried plugging in the green plugs with the key in the drive position. Does the engine have to be running? The light just stayed on along with all the other lights. It does run funny, so I have a feeling it's related. Does anyone have an explicit procedure to read the codes for an '89 SPFI EA82?
  19. I should also mention that when I was getting it running again a few weeks ago after sitting for six months, the throttle got stuck open, so it was bouncing off the governor for a few seconds. Not sure if that's long enough could cause any problems.
  20. I have a sound on my EA82 that doesn't quite sound normal. It's a rhythmic slapping/clattering sound, maybe, I'm not sure how to describe it. It's probably around 3 Hz and is only present during idle. Once the engine is revved up, it goes away. I first noticed it right after I changed the oil for the first time. It sounded pretty loud and I didn't recognize it. Took it for a quick spin and it quieted down to what could be normal levels (it didn't sound as unrecognizable). Oil level is fine (just above the top mark). I checked one plug, it looked alright. Not great but alright. Looked a little like the "too hot" plug on this chart: http://www.v6z24.com/mods/howto/images/plugs/plugs19.jpg Wires look fine. Checked for irregular spark with a timing light, but it was consistent. I think I'm going to replace the plugs anyway. My next thought was maybe plug wires, then timing. Now, my friend's 2000 impreza sounds a bit like it, not exactly though. And he said it was worse before he replaced the timing (or v-belt?) tensioner. Is this sound a normal boxer engine sound, or is something wrong?
  21. I've been noticing a gas smell inside my 1989 GL Wagon. I'm used to diesel, so I'm not familiar with the smell. It sounds like I have an exhaust leak, so it might be that? My friend who has a newer Impreza told me to check the fuel filler neck because that can rust and leak. It's rusty, but doesn't look like it's leaking yet. My fuel economy is higher than I expected, so I don't think I'm losing any fuel. Any ideas?
  22. Do you still have the wagon rear right tail light?

  23. Do you still have the wagon rear right tail light?

  24. Hey guys, Been driving an old MB diesel for the past four years. Did tons of work on it as well as some other cars, but now I'm gettin' a 1989 GL wagon. 5-speed with the on-demand 4x4, 1.8 NA engine, power everything. 95,000 original miles, been sitting for the past six months, but got running and drove around a little this weekend. Runs like a champ. Everything works, except the windows seem to have some gremlins in them. Some rot, but nothing compared to my old MB. I've got a four-hour drive from NY to MA to get it home, so first off, is there anything I outta get done before I make this drive? When I get home, I plan on replacing all the fluids, checking the timing belts and generally cleaning and tuning it up.
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