Beatnic

Hope so as its too close to the ground lol and thanks for your replies- hav a good one! b

back at it again , tried cougars tip of testing the neg side of couil for light pulse but no joy so will try f different coil in am thnx all

thanks Cougar- I tested it [ wires were on wrong posts] and got no light so will try f different coil in am if no snow here cheers

UPDATE patched the crashed rad with jb weld , tested it ith air and put it in todayfor when it is running then tried a dist test with light from neg on dist [ blue yel wire] to ground suggested by Cougar: #6 [Loyale - No Spark: post #6] Cougar Posted 01 May 2013 - 07:33 PM JIM do this test:: JIM Those wire colors are correct I think. Using a test light probe check to see if you have light pulses on the minus side of the coil while you crank the engine. If the light is steady ON then there is a possible problem with crank sensor. If there is no light then the coil has an open wire Nov 7 tested it- no light or pulse - change coil Tried it- no light or pulse so if no snow tomorrow will change the dist and try again

Hi - Having similar problems with a 94 loyale but have a haynes manual w wiring diagram here is a site with download for a few bucks: http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/105863578-subaru-loyale-service-repair-workshop-manual-1988-1994 cheers

Had the same problem with my wifes suzuki xl7, bearings changed but not seated corretly and it was wobbly when I checked it at home - he redid it n/c but keep kicking myself for thinking the mechanic knows all cheers

Hi! not sure what an ea 82 is but I have a dead 94 Loyale I am trying to resurrect wont start no spark computer doesnt flash codes- how to make it do so I wonder [ need rad also] ? I am in Nelson area cheers

I was thinking of putting it up top tween the roof racks and filling the cargo area with sand for winter traction- we have crazy roads here lots slush and many hills That is when I get my hands on one:)

Thanks for that but it does not seem to be the case- only size mentioned is the reg wheels- not the spare. From my perusing diferent doenut spares they seem to be numbered one size higher for the rqd size! So the 14 in rqs 15 size and 15 in wants 16 in- Any idea whats going on or I got wrong size spares on my vehicle- there was a marked 16 in spare doenut for my 15 in rims when i got the vehicle but my winters are 14 in! Was at the dump looking at doenut spares there and ones that appear to fit 14 in [ standing height] are marked 15 [ but wrong holes etc] whew Can anybody with older legacy lift their cargo plate and read the spare number for 14 in reg tires vehicle? thanks!

Spare tire ques: what fits my p 185 65 R 14 in winter tires as a spare on a 93 Sub Legacy LS? I found this answer below on a tire sizing page for a 14 in 93 Legacy tire saying the 15 in is correct? I am getting confused because I changed the summer fancy 15 inch wheels for some good ratty 14 in winters and the doughnut tire is marked 16 inch. This is a newish vehicle for me from a lady and dont know if the 16 in is correct. Logicaly it doesnt seem so- what think as I have got to get a spare sap Love the 93 Legacy . I have a running 92 Loyale for hualing firewood down off our property and a dead 94 Loyale for parts[ computer I think] cheers and thanks for your thoughts The tire brand is Tracompa-3. Tire size is T135/70 15

I have a similar prob- no spark and the wires to the coil may have been switched on my 94 loyale- can anyone tell me where wires from igniter go on the dist? They are currently blueYellow on the neg side and black black wi white stripes on the pos +? is that right? or... Appreciate the feedback and have a good one

Hi - Thanks for your reply. The dist rotor is solid on its shaft- will not shift a bit and does turn when engine turns over. Most yankee dist shift on a spring- not this. Pump runs for about 5 secs but NOT off and on when green connectors connected. The coil plus side when 12 v test light connected flashes as rotor is spinning but no spark at plugs when pulled to test. ?? I am wondering if pump has low pressure will the computer shut down the spark procedure?Is thoriginal pump eternal near r wheel and rusty base but coonectors look secure - am going to check the hoses tommorrow if cracked or leaking and the ohm on the pump if I can . They are saying we are getting anther dump of snow tonight I have found several cut and 3 broken cluster wires near battery which may be result of old owner slapping a different engine in AND maybe me breaking a wire while pulling plugs to check their condition 20 K before it died. I also found an open vacuum hose just above the thermo which I think was disturbed when I tightened the weeping thermo joint at same time as plug action. I found a cluster of light weight broken wires that go into the fender harness and two are white and one black. On the nearby positive battery terminal is a cut heavy wire and under the battery i found about 10 in of loose light white wire which has disappeared in my initial poke about. The neg term has a 3 in section of cut heavy black wire but I think it has been replaced wiith a ground wire to fr frame. We have mega snow her and I am trying to figure this out- out doors.

Update- coil reads ok ohms [i had it on wrong 20k instead of 200k range] Removed pass side belt cover- not broken and the drivers side belt must be ok as the oil light goes off after turning over few ties .....but maybe they have slipped Not sure how to test the ignitor under the coil but will check ground there I suspect the fuel pump or filter might be the problem not sure how ascertain if enough pressure evident- just hooked a drain hose off filter and the pump does move gas but drizzle is the amount- is that normal? If filter is no good [ looks old] would it pass fuel as it is doing? I could time how long to fill a liter I guess I am going to next check the fuel pump ground at the rear and connections as soon as I warm up- its winter here and I am outside What I am not sure of is: why is there no spark ? If pump is malfunctioning would the computer shut down spark some how? thanks for response

update-- went to auto store in town and checkd ohms on new one. Its the same as my suspect one, that is, it read .00ohm on the primary and 9.20 sec but book say .78-.81. on primary ?? $100 local new stumpd - maybe coil is good got a spare used coil I borrowed so going t install and try in the am it has same readings as new [ .00 and 9. 6 ] one and suspect one grrr:cool:

Hi - Thanks everyone. Have no spare working dist. Dist rotor turns. Engine light is always on. The test green and white connectors were connected since spring purchase -I disconnected today BUT Coil is reading weird ohms , on 20k setting the primary [ two side terminals] is .00 and secondary is 9.29 is that more than a hint? I am hoping its just the coil then There is an module under the coil- checked connections and ground nearby as well thanks again for your feedback I am afraid to go back and review the posts as I may lose this letter b

So I just tested if spark at plugs - Nein. Bummer Maybe the coil is no good-there is power to the coil. I tried a sub coil form an old v8 that works but no spark either an they both read about the same ohms. mmmph:( gotta find a subaru fan around here in Nelson mybe borrow a for sure good coil going to look at t wiring next and try n figure out schematics and / or testing procedures The machine had a different motor dropped in sloppily w loose bolts etc- not sure what type later n thnx for lookng

Hi Presslab Thanks for your interest. Cranked it and the rotor moves . At one point I put a timing light onto the coil center but didnt get a flash but might have missed it - I am going to connect to spark lead to confirm if I can see spark from drivers seat- I will get back on that- warming up w a cuppah tea Could the fuel pump be weak? it just sorta dribbled gas through filter when i tested it- it whirrs and does pump but I am not sure how vigorous it should be, I did read on a google search that white and green test connectors at wiper motor should not be connected except for testing- they WERE connected- if they are the testing connectors- I DISCONNECTED THEM The fuses seem ok but there are open hanging connectors above the clutch- I was thinking I might have dislodged one with my big snow boots later ha ha love the icon but it should be a mule as I had that problem once- the mule won b

Hi - 94 Sub Loyale 4wd 270000 Love this Sub but she no go. Hope someone on here is conversant with these old girls. Found a old thread so will try and follow their trouble list. Have had a coolant spray leak so fixed the hole but coolant went everywhere- ran ok to town slushy roads 20 miles then would not start. Wonder if its shorting a connection - this machine is new to me - there has been a newer engine added so connection wires hanging everywhere some cut but prob from snazzey driving lights that were on it before I picked it up. I recently pulled plugs- they look good very light tan color but maybe I disturbed a connection winding them out and in? Towed home and checked fuel pump- opened hoses- works, and pushed fuel through filter. Checked fuses OK. Has a original Coil and 12v r to the two connections on side. The distributor is all elec I think- no vac hoses- I will post a picture. The fuse links look ok. I think its fuel injection with timing module in distributor. But at this point I am flummexed . My manual runs from the 80's to 94 so trying figure out which wire test module chapter refers to my machine is my next chore. I dried out the interior dist cap and added stronger battery- turns over but no bang Recently swapped a good coil off old v8 but no spark- how much should the fuel pump pump? I loosend a filter line and it more than dribbles out- should it spray? thanx all Going to chk in am if rotor loose , how to check if spark coming off center line from coil? Just myself to start and monitor Appreciate feedback and will try n post pics. Have a nice Xmas and New Year!