idosubaru

ah ha, i gotcha. yeah i've never had a need to go to a larger bolt on timing belt pulley bolts, i've repaired quite a few. i'm sure it'll hold fine.

when it's running do you see bubbles coming into the overflow tank? in general constant bubbles are bad and signal likely headgaskets - though a really hot coolant will boil and have "bubbling" too of sorts. i and someone else just replaced a radiator this summer in EJ vehicles as new as 2000. i was just kind of winging it and couldn't verify the radiator with any test. i found one for like $67 new though so figured why bother wasting time testing it for such a cheap price. two symptoms i had: 1. if i shut the car off and coasted for a bit (down a hill), then turned it back one, it would temporarily cool back down. that was the only way, turning the heat on wouldn't help. 2. with the bottom hose removed and a hose running to the cap, it would not flow all the water. it would flow some, maybe %50, but not all of it. a radiator in my garage would flow all of it. i would suspect symptoms could vary based on how it's clogged, or water pressure of your hose. not sure what style yours has but i have a couple used legacy/impreza radiators that i could let you borrow or try out. i have a legacy manual trans and impreza auto trans i think.

you could still have a leak or clogged radiator, you'll need to investigate further. if they overheat the coolant will boil over into the overflow reservoir. so - you're going to want to properly fill and burp this thing and make sure it's not loosing coolant or overheating due to the radiator. i have a car right now that was boiling the coolant into the overflow reservoir. new radiator, it's fine now.

OH MY WORD you're insane, i LOVE it! you'll fit in great here!!!! :lol::lol: that's amazing, glad it all came together. for future reference they make right angle drills you can rent that will fit in tight places. they also make right angle drill attachments that fit onto your drill allowing you to drill at a right angle in tight places. harbor freight has them for like a couple bucks. confused as to why you had to drill out the "bearings", but who cares you got it all fixed and running, good job!

Not sure about posting here, but a lot of folks host elsewhere and then link to it here. I'd try to repair it personally. A car like that would give you many, many years of cheap, reliable service.

due to a piston slap issue sometimes the pistons are replaced. i would try and see if possibly this piston (or more than one) have been replaced on this engine. maybe it looks different or has a part number or markings on it somewhere? you could search on here or google the piston slap issue and the parts used to fix it and maybe hit something helpful there to look into that. in general piston rings are not a concern with subaru's. i realize it's possible, just not very probable (understatement). but on the off chance that the pistons were replaced, which i've heard of people/Subaru doing due to the piston slap issue then maybe something was installed wrong or not lined up, etc. maybe they were done under warranty or even later? i believe the rings need to be offset too - the gaps in the rings can't be lined up or that will encourage oil passage if these are gapped rings which they should be i think. but i'm with these jokers, valve stem seals are the most likely culprit i'd guess. how long did you drive the car like this? i would have driven it for awhile and put some miles on it to get a gauge for what's going on.

it'll bolt right up and the final diff ratio's are the same. electronics are the only question, i'm almost positive it should be the same though. pretty sure the connectors changed with the trans so if the trans wiring connectors are the same it's probably a direct swap. not sure why the junkyards don't list them as a direct swap but they don't list ANY legacy's as a swap, which i know is wrong so i'm guessing they just don't know.

make sure the clutch cable isn't just broken, stretched, or a bolt came loose. if it was previously worked on, check it. might be a hydraulic clutch, but i thought it was cable. seems to me the higher end GT's and such got hydraulic and the lower end stuff still had cable around 96-98 but i'm not sure when it all changed, etc. if it is hydraulic then yeah replace the slave and master cylinders, they fail often. they are a pain to bleed. no amount of bleeding of following suggestions worked, i just let it sit overnight and it finally was bled. as for clutch. there are multiple parts and sometimes folks don't replace them all. a thorough clutch job includes: throw out bearing, throw out bearing clips, and pilot bearing. i've seen clips break, be missing, or rust and bearings can obviously age. i'd check to see if these parts were replaced and the pressure plate as well. big difference between replacing a clutch and a complete clutch job. at least your trans doesn't sound hosed but annoying nonetheless.

talked to a buddy of mine today that owns a body shop and he recommended measuring the relationship of the front wheels to the back and compare those too. he said to start with the suspension links rather than the strut, which was the opposite of what i was thinking so i'll probably replace some links first. said he's never heard of this happening before though which i thought was odd. i guess most cars the damage is obvious enough to get fixed or so bad it's just totaled.

$1,200 with no mileage is a terrible deal. you don't need JDM, just shop elswehere. i'd probably ship you a 80,000 mile Ej25 for $1,200 with new headgaskets on it, shoot me a PM or email if you want. used engines are fine whether JDM or locally obtained, just get one with a warranty or cheap enough you don't care. JDM engines are "low mileage" but there's also drawbacks so i wouldn't be too enamoured. typically "city" miles and they still have the original headgaskets probably, not attractive for a top dollar prospect IMO. if you're getting a used EJ25 my goodness please don't pay top dollar, doesn't matter if it's JDM or new old stock, if the headgaskets haven't been replaced they all have the same propensity to fail regardless of mileage so don't pay top dollar for one thinking other wise. i bought a 56,000 EJ25 legacy this summer with locked up block bearings - headgaskets were replaced at 30,000. i mean i'd just plan on replacing the heads gaskets before installing it due to the issue with these motors, but just don't pay top dollar for one. remember - demand and prices are high for this motor due to head gaskets and bearing issues.

have you tried cleaning them? they do not age well at all and get dirty/yellow. how ever you feel about them, they're 100X better when they are "like new". they sell kits and there are various threads here and all over the internet on how to sand/polish/clean/clear coat them. or buy new. although - i thought there were some glass options too from certain years that fit your 95?

soak them now in diesel or ATF or PB Blaster, let them sit a week in it. then put it in the oven :lol: that should get them out. "hey honey, you done with the stove?"

cruise youll need to add all the components, not just a switch. but it is doable and folks parting cars on here sometimes sell the complete set up to add it. simpler to find one with it of course. as to interference, that's the nature of our society. subaru marketing folks deem that a tiny performance increase generates more sales and is worth the risk of a few folks that won't like it. go to any store...products like to use words like "NEW...Innovative..."...NEW NEW NEW, change, companies want to be branded as in line for the next great thing, always on the ball, always keeping up and leading and changing....it's a marketing trick and it works well.

JCE i got a tube for you. try to remove it tomorrow, PM and/or email me your address in case i don't have it. you can delete it, but you will get a code...or a couple. I could check mine and let you know exactly which ones! They are impossible to get rid of....i've even swapped in a non-EGR intake, pulled the wire at the ECU and swapped in an ECU from a car without EGR....still get the codes. i'd love for you to figure it out but hate to see you waste your time. in WV the CEL is meaningless for inspection so it doesn't matter for me.

electrical....hmmmm....fun.

it's nice they didn't go off but actually air bags are easy and cheap from a DIY perspective. i've done a few and i'd much rather do air bag stuff than body work. remove, replace, done. the massaging, alignments, panels, and painting are the expensive part.

200,000 miles? i'd offer $500. i don't know if the foresters have a lower demand or what but getting basically zero interest on a 2000 forester with 150,000 miles. a legacy would be gone by now i'd think...sold two 98 legacy's this year no problem....both to the first test drivers.

Right, OBS sounds Impreza-ish, that's what I was leaning on.

yes, they did: from when i asked.

+1 are you positive it was a good running engine when you got it? did you hear it run? have a good feel from the source?

a cursory glance shows a possible 400 pound weight difference...but i didn't really study or anything. so - toss a few people in your old GT and see how it does? i love the way the GT's drive, they do have a great feel to them. but i like the ground clearance of the OBW's better. just different. i'm thinking about upgraded sway bars for the OBW, would never cross my mind when driving a GT.

basically the same engine and power figures. the legacy is a sportier and lighter car than your newer outback so might just be weight and vehicle. the GT's i've had definitely drive very nice, so it's not surprising it would have a better feel. the outbacks sit higher too, so worse handling, better ground clearance, and more wind resistance, roof racks, etc. both were the same type of trans, auto or manual? might have a different feel?

i can't think of anything else then. surprised no one has commented yet. maybe change the title to something about the driveshaft......i saw it but didn't read it the first day you posted because it seemed like one of the other 1,000 duty C threads by the title and i figured others would get to it.

yes, only liability is required. his car is only covered if he has comprehensive ("full coverage"), which is not required by state law. that's required by lenders if the car still has a lien against it but seems like he doesn't. i might be using the wrong terms or they may differ for different companies/parts of the country, but you're more experienced than me so i'm sure you know what i mean..or think i mean?

nice, that's a herd of soobs!