ShawnW
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Posts posted by ShawnW
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I have run hydraulic pushrods on a solid lifter motor but you can't do it the other way around. We used to do it as the caps wouldn't pop off like solid lifter pushrods at high rpm.
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Ill see you there!
I have made the trip for #3, 7, 10, and 19 if memory serves and never had a bad time. At #10 I had been puking for 2 days from bad Clam chowder for the first day of the show and still had a blast. I fully agree with you that:
For your first show don't try to bring a car home but if you are going to try it you have the right idea doing a round trip flight in case the deal isn't good.
Twice now I have done some sort of car deal on the trip. The first one I did was a logistical mess and I had some of the best members on this forum to help me. Then last year I did a trade and showed up in an SVX that I had owned for 6 hours and changed the radiator at the show. That car made it home no problems but it was a huge gamble. Times I have kept the trip simple with a solid EJ powered car that I already owned before and drove home after have been much more vacation like.
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If its the filter I use in house I have a Pennzoil tool that fits really well. For filters that aren't that size I reach up with a pair of these.
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I have a Smart washer. Its not cheap but it WORKS. And it won't kill you, isn't flammable, and usually doesn't hurt the parts. Works great on aluminum engines, decent against carbon (honestly nothing takes carbon off pistons easily imo)
Used with my hot washer I hardly have to scrub things anymore.
Heres one in CL Colorado so you get an idea but I paid $200 for the last one and had to buy a pad and fluid to get going I am at about 300 invested and the fluid has to be topped off when the red light comes on occasionally but otherwise its fine.
https://cosprings.craigslist.org/tls/d/smart-washer-sw-23-parts/6378177699.html
Be patient they do come up cheap sometimes! And they're not hard to fix or troubleshoot.
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I have one that has a little weak spot in it if you don't twist the key quite so far it starts really fast. Otherwise I don't know if I am completely understanding what your saying.
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For the air suspension?
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http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/5864787100.html
Selling this. I will ship but you pay shipping with FedEx Ground.
Paypal or call with a credit card to the shop if interested. 720-440-1662
Thanks!
I have a few ea81 manifolds if someone wants to remove it from the 71 and put it on an 81 manifold.
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I fixed one with this code with the replacement of the MAF as well today. Thanks for the thread.
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I don't know. That'd be about like not loving your wife anymore because she changed her name from Sarah to Tracy. Its still the same girl just a different name isn't it?
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When I did Vanagon Conversions at RetroRoo we liked using this to ghost out the CEL's. Part of the wires you are mentioning are covered by using this.
https://smallcar.com/vanagon/subaru-vanagon-conversion-parts/interface-board.html
You won't be able to cheat the fuel temp or fuel level stuff very easily during a conversion.
The tach signal is correct. I feed it right into the back of the instrument clusters tach wire. On the Early 80's its yellow but I am not sure on the later 80's/Loyale stuff.
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I got about 10 right and I live thousands of miles away.
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No matter how careful / slowly cooling systems are refilled with water, air will be inevitably trapped in the system somewhere.
The object of the exercise is is to remove these air locks and the best way to do this is to RUN the motor for a significant amount of time
with the radiator cap off to release air topping up when necessary
Up to 30 minutes so that the engine comes up to temperature with thermostat opening and water pump pushing / circulating water around to help push air out.
Parking on slopes / squeezing hoses etc not necessary.
Subaru heaters usually have water running through heater core continuously unless modified ( part of the primary cooling circuit { motor / water pump / heater core} until thermostat opens)
Heat + cooling happens by heater control air flaps directing air to / away from heater core so setting heater controls to hot makes no difference in this process.
Agree with you on the newer Subarus but on the old ones the coolant shuts off to the heater with a control valve.
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Ive got a bin full but I never had any problem using some on others.
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Can anyone confirm that the spare on these has a TPMS sensor? My Toyota Tacoma does and I bet its possible but never was able to verify.
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Ive got a set I would sell for that price.
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Welcome!. Im in the North Denver suburbs both Henderson and Westminster. Shop in Westminster-RetroRoo.
Shawn
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Its a fine price based on your description. And if you want to do a project like that then the price is right. Go for it and take lots of pictures and post as you go here!
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They sell some boxes for hauling batteries in if that's an issue. I like the Outback better than the Baja but for this its a tossup on which would be better. The back of an Outback with the seats folded flat is actually larger than a Baja bed but like you said its inside the cabin. An Outback is a lot cheaper than a Baja too.
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Tape worked on mine too. Nice idea. Often the simple stuff gets overlooked. Love an easy 2 minute fix. Too bad I tried so many other options first that were way more than 2 minutes.
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Did you ask Chase?
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Im down in Denver/Westminster and I run a Subaru shop in Henderson that specializes in older Subaru's-and new ones.
Seems like all I do all day is Subaru stuff. -
The gash looks like it is outside the bead area so it shouldn't matter. The bent "warped" rim I would at a minimum install on the rear of the car. They won't be able to balance it well with that.
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They are both Ej20 turbo engines and compatible. Your concerns of head gasket/timing belt are of course valid and only able to either be visually detected or maybe he has receipts from purchasing parts/service in the past on the Saabaru engine as I like to call it.
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Still here?
in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
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Nice to hear from you!