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Posts posted by ShawnW

  1. Ill see you there!

    I have made the trip for #3, 7, 10, and 19 if memory serves and never had a bad time.   At #10 I had been puking for 2 days from bad Clam chowder for the first day of the show and still had a blast.   I fully agree with you that:

    For your first show don't try to bring a car home but if you are going to try it you have the right idea doing a round trip flight in case the deal isn't good.   

    Twice now I have done some sort of car deal on the trip.   The first one I did was a logistical mess and I had some of the best members on this forum to help me.   Then last year I did a trade and showed up in an SVX that I had owned for 6 hours and changed the radiator at the show.  That car made it home no problems but it was a huge gamble.   Times I have kept the trip simple with a solid EJ powered car that I already owned before and drove home after have been much more vacation like.   



  2. I have a Smart washer.   Its not cheap but it WORKS.   And it won't kill you, isn't flammable, and usually doesn't hurt the parts.   Works great on aluminum engines, decent against carbon (honestly nothing takes carbon off pistons easily imo)


    Used with my hot washer I hardly have to scrub things anymore.   


    Heres one in CL Colorado so you get an idea but I paid $200 for the last one and had to buy a pad and fluid to get going I am at about 300 invested and the fluid has to be topped off when the red light comes on occasionally but otherwise its fine.






    Be patient they do come up cheap sometimes!   And they're not hard to fix or troubleshoot. 

  3. When I did Vanagon Conversions at RetroRoo we liked using this to ghost out the CEL's.   Part of the wires you are mentioning are covered by using this.   




    You won't be able to cheat the fuel temp or fuel level stuff very easily during a conversion.   


    The tach signal is correct.  I feed it right into the back of the instrument clusters tach wire.   On the Early 80's its yellow but I am not sure on the later 80's/Loyale stuff.

  4. No matter how careful / slowly   cooling systems are refilled with water, air will be inevitably trapped in the system somewhere. 


    The object of the exercise is is to remove these air locks and the best way to do this is to RUN the motor for a significant amount of time


    with the radiator cap off to release air topping up when necessary


    Up to 30 minutes so that the engine comes up to temperature with thermostat opening and water pump pushing / circulating water around  to help push air out.


    Parking on slopes / squeezing hoses etc not necessary.


    Subaru heaters usually have water running through heater core continuously unless modified  ( part of the primary cooling circuit { motor / water pump / heater core} until thermostat opens)

     Heat + cooling happens  by heater control air flaps  directing air to / away from heater core so setting heater controls to hot makes no difference in this process.

    Agree with you on the newer Subarus but on the old ones the coolant shuts off to the heater with a control valve.   

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