ShawnW
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Posts posted by ShawnW
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Yes. Cyl 1 is passenger front.
5000 is pretty typical on a 3AT under full load. I wouldn't do that real often-that trans isn't really meant for that.
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It doesn't have the AUX in the center console? Pretty easy to add to most models with a dealer part.
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Unless its a turbo I use a tapered pin punch thru the hole on the passenger side of the bellhousing. Its threaded and about even with the dowel pin (1/2 way down). It will lock into the teeth of a flywheel or the bolt of an automatic flex plate bolt. I also have the Subaru Special Tool for holding the crank pulley but the punch is much faster than setting up the tool. That can be used on the turbo engines and any that don't have the flywheel or flexplate still attached.
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I think the ea82 carb cars had that when they were new, I bet most are broken and gone by now. Would probably be pretty easy to retrofit into an ea81.
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$45??? What kind of place? I got quotes going well above $100 for a full system recharge.
The cheapest I ever am for A/C is $99, that's EVAC, replace O rings, pull vac and verify no leak, recharge. Just the Freon itself is $20-25 and the oil another 3-4. I would be skeptical of anybody that is a professional shop doing it for less than the $100.
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I am a BG Retailer and I don't push it that often. I include it as a part of the 15 and 30K services only. My dealer did the same. Every 3K is greedy to me.
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Above I was asked why I wouldn't just change the trans bearings. The shop is pretty busy at the moment and it would be a lot quicker to just test out the trans from a car I parted out than to take the one out, tear it down, order all the stuff, and put it back in. I can have the other one installed in a couple easy hours and not tie up the lift long.
I also don't like doing the input shaft bearing on a trans that I don't know how long its been bad. Many times I have seen the metal distorted on the case and that basically means the trans case is going to be scrap.
I really appreciate the comments and advice. I think I will try the Impreza trans now. Might even be able to get my bore scope in the dipstick hole and read the numbering off the ring gear.
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That's neat they had a cooler air duct attachment on those too. Never seen that on a US market car.
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A bonus would be having the outlets be available as stock or EFI rated hose size for the fuel pump. And if they were all EFI baffled so people could skip having to add or have a surge tank for EJ swapped cars.
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I still have a few setups laying around, just carbs and intakes/blue air cleaners. They are Jerry DeMoss's but being stored in my Attic at the moment with no plans for use at the moment either.
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Shawn,
You also mentioned a larger disc from another EA81 model that could be used for the front disc brakes on the BRAT, was it a 84' XT Coupe?
If I remember correctly it requires moving to the caliper, caliper bracket and brake rotor from an 83-87 Brat/Hatch/Wagon/Sedan or Coupe of the EA81 bodystyle. Should be a bolt in affair.
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If you can find a nice gently used one that is a few years old you might get an not Chinese made one too. Usually better. The Porter Cable or Bosch ones are my personal preference.
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And by all means watch the weather and be patient with it. Sometimes waiting 2-3 days can mean the temp goes up for 4-5 days in a row here and in the winter I see 70 degrees quite often. I think Portland is kindof similar to Denver on that sort of thing.
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I certainly don't see it as a required item but nice to have for sure. The rear disc brakes are certainly less braking than the fronts-still smaller than the fronts, etc. It might be more of an issue on one with 80-82 brakes on an EA71/81 car but otherwise I dont see it being something you can lock the rear without locking the front on.
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The word on the street is that 5MT stub shafts do not come out without dis-assembly, because they are held with snap rings that require pliers to remove.
Correct. Only the Auto trans stubs are removable externally.
I would probably take the inner DOJ cups off each and see if the splines on the CV shafts are compatible. But usually the axles will just work as is even with a little visual difference. Would help to post a photo of the outers so I can see.
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Technically in the tank and I don't mess with it unless the fuel pump fails.
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Check the rubber at the steering u joint.
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The sensor under the alternator is the oil pressure switch.
Coolant temp sensor is on the coolant crossover pipe under the intake manifold. Under the number 3 intake runner (passenger side) it's gonna be under and to the left of the large wire harness loom. There may be some hoses and wires in the way.
There are two sensors there. One is for the gauge or light in the instrument cluster, this one has one wire. The other is for the ECU and has at least two wires.
When they are this new its 1 sensor that does both.
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I usually beat the Ebay $320 price on those kits if people call my shop. Office open 2-6 mountain time. Same for any other Redline stuff if I can help USMB guys out I do.
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Most places, the muffler is for being legal on the street-not emissions but if there is a safety check involved then you might run into that. Old cats-if they work whats the worry?
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Let me know next time you go to the junkyard I might tag along. Nice collection!
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I assume the camera is on/with you the whole time. If so it doesn't seem like you were that much further up than you were away in many points of the video. Loss of signal, or maybe the angle of the antenna system became too weak at that altitude and distance from your vantage point? All very impressive and the cost you describe is really amazing drop in cost over the years. A very neat project!
How to check Timing with light ?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Honestly, with that trans if you have all 3 gears reliably-be happy.