Tiny Clark

Thanks all. Baffle plate, huh? Sounds like another name for an oil leak door. Well, hopefully I'll be able to sell it this way. I'll check the PCV today, but I don't think that will do it. I changed that not too many miles ago when my oil pump seal was leaking. Only take a few minutes to check it out though. As I said,the seal didn't make sense to me anyway, since it doesn't really seem to leak when sitting static, only when the oil is pumping.

Transmission out of the way doesn't make it an easy fix, at least for someone who can't lay on the ground too much anymore. I'll search again, but it looks like the only place it can be coming from is the bell housing, which means rear seal. I also want to say that you regulars in here have been great over the past years. I learned a lot about Subies, and I appreciate the help that I always received before.

My '96 has an oil leak in the rear of the engine somewhere. The cam cover on the passenger side is fine, and I can't see anything else. It is dripping right onto the exhaust manifold and stinks badly when stopped. It almost seems like a bad oil pressure sensor, as it only leaks when the engine is running. After shut down, I just get a few drips (residual?). It doesn't leak while static. I hadn't seen anything on this before, but then again, I wasn't looking. Are rear main seals a real problem? 146k miles and ready to sell. I really don't need it anymore in So. Georgia.

My wife's '96 was doing that same thing. When warm, step on gas to get it started. I have a reader, and it was a cam sensor.

Sorry, but I have to add this. I got the cam sensor a week ago, and of course, the check engine light is out in the wife's car, running perfectly.

When I got over here to Germany, I noticed my wife's Legacy would shut off. I have to cock it a bit sideways and hold it to keep it from shutting off.

If you can't afford to have it changed right now, it may last a bit longer. If you can swing a can/tube of grease and a can of carb cleaner. Clean it up as much as you can, get some grease in there, then take some nylon tie straps, cover the boot with a plastic garbage bag and zip tie it on at both ends and one in the middle. Make sure you wrap it up in the right direction so the end doesn't get caught in the draft. I did this on a Geo and it lasted 3 months.

Actually, it came back today anyway. Hopefully, it'll stay intermittent until the new one gets here next week. Nice thing Auto Zone does for military, free Priority postage overseas.

Wife's car wouldn't start today, did crank. She left it for 15 minutes, came back and it started up, but had the engine light. Read it for a P0340 tonight. Anyone had any luck with clearing a camshaft code just by reseating the connector? I already ordered one from Autozone, but I'm just curious.

He did put the 5MT in his first line, I missed it too.

Why don't you put a toggle switch next to the resistor in the engine bay?

That would be correct, I guess I should look first, then type. He could go into either circuit feeding the headlights, fuse 26 or 24. Thanks for clearing that up, Skip. I need a glass of wine now.

Yep, that would be it. You could always tie the black/yellow wire to the low beam wire, and it would work as it is supposed to. The small current draw on that line from the fog light switch bulbs and the relay would be minimal.

Maybe that pic was taken in Australia

Not even a chance, unless you give the prybars to a couple heavy duty weight lifters. Motorcycle tires, yes; car tires, no. Because of the tubeless design, they fit too tight. Not to mention you could seriously hurt yourself trying it.