Suzam

Before you start tearing things apart, check your license plate. I had an annoying rattle from the rear that I actually had back to the dealer because I was convinced it was up above the roof liner. It was still there after the dealer checked it out. I got on my back in the rear of the wagon and rapped on the roof and could get it to vibrate but still couldn't track it down. Finally my wife, who was watching me from outside the car, tracked it down to the plate. I removed the dealer's frame and now it's quiet.

Tom, I sent you an email...I found the receipt: SUB45124AC000 is for the "Air Plug" SUB45128KA000 is for the "O-Ring" $8.20 & $1.84 respectively. Not sure why 2 part numbers, they were both in the same poly bag. Edit: I Googled the number, sans the SUB (45124AC000), and got a couple of hits including http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/oe_list.html and one in Russia.

Do the stations change on the display, as if the radio itself, still works? I'm pretty sure as I remember, that there are at least 2 sets of plugs on the back of the radio. One supplies power the other is the plug that has all the speaker wires connected. I suppose it's possible that the speaker plug has somehow popped out, if you can get to the back of the radio to check, I'd do that first. If all else fails ebay should have a stock one for a little bit of $. Good luck.

I've got a set of WRX wheels with 205/55-16 on a MY95 Legacy L. No fit problems at all, there should be room for your 205/70/15.

Strictly speaking the manual with the transfer of a 50/50 split front to back at all times will be better for least traction situations like ice, mud, loose dirt, etc. Some drivers think the auto with a 90/10 split until slippage is better on dry and wet pavements as far as drivability day to day. The automatics "lock" the center differential at 50/50 in 1st and reverse gears for better traction. I agree with friendly_jacek...limited-slip differentials (LSD) in the rear make a BIG difference compared to the open diffs.

Nope – sorry, but I tossed the old part and bag. I don't think I kept the receipt since I just walked in and paid cash. It was in the database of the parts department, I remember because I didn't drive the car there and the guy said he needed the VIN, but since I didn't have it he just went by the model and year. Took him about 5 minutes but he found the number and had it in stock. I can't belive you'd need to get an entire radiator, if that were true the service departments would be replacing a lot of radiators. The part breaks off very easy, mine was weeping and I just tightened it less than an eighth of a turn and snapped the head off. I was lucky that there was enough of the slots left on the threaded stud part for me to back it out. I would also think that a radiator service place might be a source if the dealer insists that it isn't available. :-\

Hmmm...I just bought one at a dealer about 2 weeks ago for $12! It came in it's own little baggie with a new "O" ring.

I WANT ONE!!!! http://www.stiatv.co.nz/

Until the internals of the engine get settled into themselves I would read the manual and follow it for break-in recommendations.

If it only happens at low speeds, I'd suspect a tire problem such as a separated belt or sidewall. Higher speeds would indicate a need for balancing. You might try returning the tires to the previous positions to determine if the problem goes away or changes in any way.

On our MY01 Ltd, the CD and 6-disk changer with sub-woofer was standard. Check this web page for a list of standard equipment on the 2000: http://www.cars101.com/outback2000.html

Have you checked the toggle switch on the top of the steering column? That's the "magic" parking light switch just in front of the dashboard.

Our MY01 Wagon did the same thing. I believe there are mounts below the gasket at the bottom that the windshield rests on. Our dealer said the same thing, rock strike. It would be nearly impossible for a rock to have hit under the wiper. Our crack started to head to the right from the driver's side, within 2 weeks a second crack on the passenger side started and it too went to the right, away from the driver's side crack. Eventually the driver's side caught up to the passenger side and formed a double arch, one long arch to the passenger side then another smaller one from the passenger’s side over. Dealer refused to budge even with the additional crack, so the cost of the new replacement was my contribution. I had posted here about this and I remember at least one if not two similar problems from others. BTW- our Limited OB has the winter package with the heated base. $380 to replace with an aftermarket. The heating element looks different but performs the same.

After your inital install, don't forget to recheck the torque after 1k miles for alloy wheels.

Congratulations! Enjoy your new ride!

Did anything unusual happen prior to the problem? Anyone under the hood before, to do work or check oil, etc.? Driving in a lot of snow or rain recently? When it first starts and runs, is it smooth RPM or stumbling before it quits? Could be any number of things from a loose connection of a hose or wire under the hood to a clogged fuel filter or just a dirty air filter.

There are rubber type gaskets that seal the tubes. They do tend to leak after time and milage. Not sure of the cost.

If your front end has some "shimmy" at speed, it could be your disk brake rotors. Does hard braking produce a pulsation or rumble? Have you rotors checked and machined or you can just replace them if they are getting thin.

If the ignition was in the ON position with or without the engine running the fuse in the FWD slot would work. I seriously doubt that a tow truck driver would do that. If anything had he realized it was a Subaru AWD he would refuse to tow it and call for a flatbed. I think I'd call the tow company now and let them know to expect to cover any damage to the AWD after the dealer inspects it. Subaru is very clear about not towing the automatics in any fashion, always flatbed.

If it's like the Outback's set up, there should be a black boot covering the back of the bulb housing with a plug going into the back. The plug should pull straight off, then you peel back the boot to expose the back of the bulb. You should see a metal clip that you unhook and swing away from the bulb. now the bulb should be free to remove. Do forget to keep your fingers off of the new bulb. Any fingerprints or other oils can shorten the life of the bulb. If you do touch it, wipe it off with a lint free cloth and isopropyl alcohol. Good Luck!

I know that the on our 01MY Outback the LSD was only available and was a standard option on the Limited, LLBean and VDC models. Base model Outbacks didn't offer it, even as an option. I think that holds true for the 00-04MY. The LSD might have been offered later in this body style as an option on the regular models but I'm not sure.

have you ever changed out the front and rear differential oil? I'd give that a try for the whine as you apply power to the drive train. As far as the click, maybe a CV joint?

My Mother-in-Law's 98MY Outback had 2k on it when she drove to Youngstown OH from Delaware (about 400 miles). The night she arrived, while heading out for a short trip, the engine started rapping loudly. She drove it to a local Subaru dealer the next morning and was diagnosed with a bad bearing. They called SOA and did a "tear-down" to confirm the damage and a new create motor was shipped out. She had to head home before the install, so SOA picked-up the cost of a loaner, until she could go back for her car. The mechanic told her that when they drained the oil and open it up to examine the internals the oil, oil pan and filter were loaded with metal. BTW-at 84k this 2.5 has been running perfectly. Lucky? Or maybe there are tighter specs on the replacement create engines? I wonder...

You didn't say how many miles you had but I have a 95MY 2.2 (132,000) that did the same thing, including random idle speeds and the O2 code. I reset the computer and dumped 2 bottles of injector cleaner in a fresh tank of gas, then 1 bottle for the next 2 tanks. Idle is back to normal and no CEL. Might be worth a shot, it worked for me and this was after I finally got tired of the problem and took it to the dealship and had them check everything they could think of. They found no problems or an explanation of the cause that I managed to cure. I'm now considering Seafoam when the weather stays warmer to knock out any carbon in the top end.

I believe it's a relay, not sure where it is. Might be under the dash or in the engine compartment. BTW-for safety it only goes down automatically, still have to hold it for closing.